A LEGACY IN THE KITCHEN – MARTHA RIDER
By Kit Zinser
At the north end of Elm Street and East Jefferson, a big yellow house sits with a joyful history. The house today shows signs of age, as time often brings. Yet, if its past visitors and owners could speak, they would have many stories to tell.
In the late 40s, delightful aromas filled the neighborhood air as kids played in the streets, roller-skated along the sidewalks, and walked to and from grade school. K’s Kitchen (K for Lois Kinsinger) was located at the intersection of East Jefferson and North Elm. The matron was a tall, slender woman with gold-rimmed glasses and short silver hair. She established a dynasty in home cooking for Washington clubs and organizations, as well as for family reunions, showers, and wedding dinners. However, her health declined, and K’s Kitchen closed for a short period. That is, until Martha Rider stepped up to the challenge.
Martha Rider was born in 1912 in Fairfield, IL, to Andrew and Lula Short Whitaker. She had 11 brothers and sisters, and it was with them that her talents in the kitchen and homemaking developed. At age 23, she moved from Secor to Washington and got a job at Hoke's Cafe at 501 Walnut. The location now houses a “car museum” and was previously home to Mary Rachel Antiques. Then, Martha married Clarence Rider in 1942. While he was away at war, she seized the opportunity to be her own boss and contribute to the family income. Martha purchased the cafe in the basement of the old city building (Ray’s Cafe) and renamed it Martha’s Cafe. This location is now Brecklin’s parking lot. Clarence returned home after serving his country, and Martha took a break to focus on her young family. They had two children, Linda and Tom.
However, Martha soon returned to the restaurant business as Clarence faced serious health issues. In 1956, she bought the big yellow house that was formerly K’s Kitchen. Martha aptly named it “The Town House.” The town had felt the absence of K’s Kitchen, and Martha was the perfect fit. Not only did she replicate and grow K’s business, but the house also allowed her to stay close to her children. They renovated the basement into a working kitchen for the restaurant. Clarence helped her move food from the basement to the warm, wood-paneled dining room, where patrons enjoyed home-cooked meals. For a time, she opened her doors on Sundays, but mostly her business hosted social clubs and civic organizations such as the Rotary Club, Lions Club, as well as wedding showers, dinners, and family or class reunions.
Her fare included her famous homemade biscuits, fried chicken, noodles, apple cake, and seasonal pies. Fortunately for the neighborhood, the scents continued and even inspired young cooks! Then, after more than 40 years in the restaurant business, including 27 years at the Town House, she turned off the ovens.
Washington recognized all that Martha accomplished when it named her “Washingtonian of the Year” in 1976. She was an active member of the Washington Historical Society, Women’s Club, American Legion, Post #100, Order of the Eastern Star, and she received the Paul Harris Rotary Award. (The Rotarians sorely missed her meals at their weekly meetings.)
Clarence worked alongside Martha until his passing in June 1994. Martha, at age 87, left an unmatched legacy and passed away in 1999. Her charm and success lay in her welcoming smile.
The old yellow house seems to be patiently waiting for restoration.