Light and Photography

LIGHT & Photography

         As previously mentioned, the word ‘photograph’ means to ‘draw with light’. A basic understanding of how light affects a scene is fundamental for all aspiring photographers.

         Once you have chosen a suitable subject, or scene to photograph, then you must also consider the lighting conditions. If shooting outside, this is related to the position of the sun in the sky.

         1) Timing

         Just like in comedy, timing is everything. Contrary to popular practice, shooting under the midday summer sun is unlikely to produce inspiring results; the overhead sun creates short shadows, which are harsh. Therefore, landscapes lack three-dimensional form and appear flat. People may get unflattering shadows under their facial features. Blue-sky days are great for exploring outside, but make for uninspiring photographs.

         For quality light, try shooting in the Golden Hour – that magical time of day before sunset (or after dawn) when the light is softer and diffused, the hills are bathed in a golden glow (and when your companions are most likely heading home for dinner.)

         Also try shooting in the Blue Hour, half an hour after sundown, when the colours of the sky can become brilliantly intense. Alternatively, brave the elements and shoot immediately after a storm, waiting for the moment when a shaft of light penetrates the moody sky. Kiwi photographer, Andris Apse, reckons that the mysterious third dimension of photography is mood.

         2) Colour Temperature

         During different times of the day, and in different seasons of the year, the atmospheric conditions will affect the colour of your environment.  In the golden hours, the low-angled sunlight will cast a softer, diffused light that is usually warmer. At midday, the overhead sunlight will produce cooler colours.

         You can manipulate the colour temperature on some cameras – it’s called White Balance, and is measured on a Kelvin Scale.

         3) Dynamic Range

         This is the contrast between the brightest highlights and the darkest shadows, in a scene.

         If there’s not enough contrast, the scene will appear lacklustre and lifeless. Objects need side-lighting to give them three-dimensional form, or else they will look 2D.

         Too much contrast, however, and the dynamic range of a scene cannot be recorded adequately by the camera. A common instance is when shooting a sunset: while the sky might look stunning, other objects are back-lit; nothing more than black silhouettes.

         Thankfully, this latter issue can be fixed, with more advanced techniques such as bracketing exposures and HDR (High Dynamic Range) imaging.

         4) Location

         If shooting on the coast, check out the tide tables beforehand. An outgoing tide will mean any sandy beaches will be washed clean of footprints. Rocks may have a wet sheen, which can reflect the light. And, of course, it is safer to be shooting on the shore when the tide is retreating.

         5) Planning

         Prior planning is an essential part of serious landscape photography. As Winston Churchill famously said “Failing to plan is planning to fail.”

         Looking at a map of the area, and checking the weather forecast and tides before leaving home will save you wasted effort and disappointment, improving the chances of success. On the Internet, you can visit The Photographers Ephemeris (TPE) and find this information.