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I recently set up my carb on my rev 3 250 2001,as explained by Billy T found on a previous post. since setting up i'm having trouble starting when cold. Have i over adjusted or under adjusted, or done something else wrong. Also is there a preset setting for the screw to the left of the idle screw. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Anyway, with regards to your original question if you've adjusted the float height slightly too far, it can prevent sufficient fuel from reaching the carb to start the bike from cold. The solution is to either readjust the float height (doh!) or simply rock the bike from side to side a couple of times before kicking. This seems to "prime" the carb with fuel and make cold starting much easier.

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Do any of you Rev3 experts change the spring in your carb? I have a 02 200 which is about 3 times as heavy as the spring in my daughters 125 GG pro. Is it likely that someone has changed the spring or are they all like this?

I would follow the advice of Billy T on carb set up for the Mukuni and the Beta in particular. I also sort of agree with Neonsurge that rocking the bike when cold might help. When I got my first Beta in 1999, Ishy showed me the correct way to start a cold bike and I swear it works. First turn on fuel, set choke on, put bike in 3rd or 4th gear, with clutch in, roll bike back and forth breaking the clutch plates loose (getting oil in them)and also pumping a little bit of fuel into cylinder, once you can roll, rock bike back and forth easily, give er a kick and I would be surprised if it doesn't fire on first or second kick. Just took out my Rev3 after 5 weeks and fired on second kick.

And lastly, for 'gkp413' heck yes! Take that carb slide spring out, grab your wire cutters and snip about 1/3 off the length of that sucker! (or more). Makes a world of difference! I, like you, prefer a delicate, light, super smooth throttle action. Cutting the stock spring off (the stocker is as tough as a die-spring...) really helps - no need to spend your beer money for a light spring.

Man, are these delicious! The only thing I changed is adding some crumbled bacon to my mashed cauliflower and skipping the onion to cook them. I love my pierogies with sour cream, and these were perfectly crispy and so good! I am thrilled to have a low-carb option to enjoy pierogies again!

Well these were pleasantly delicious. The dough turned out perfectly and I filled mine with sauerkraut, bacon & a bit of swiss cheese. Fried in butter with some onion & served with a side of sour cream they satisfied my carb craving for the real thing. My batch made 17 and I guess I could have reduced to 12 but would have been very large. Next time I will use the cauliflower/leek mash instead. Froze the remainder beautifully for next craving.

I am so happy to have found this recipe! I love pierogies, and instead of eating a ton of gluten and carbs, I am thrilled to have a fathead-dough alternative. Next time, I will increase the spices in this and add more cheese since my husband and son found them bland, but overall, they were a success!

This truck should be carbureted and offhand it sounds like a carburetor fault or an intake manifold vacuum leak. The carb fault (dying with the foot off the pedal) could point to a problem in the idle circuit or an air bleed. Sometimes this problem can be cleaned out with a little wrestling and sometimes it takes a carburetor overhaul.

This one has always puzzled me. Almost every muscle car came from the factory with a Holley carb or Carb(s) on it. That includes many of the Shelby's, Cobra's, Tri-Power Vettes, some of the big block Chevelles, Six Pack Mopars, Ford "6V" systems, first and second generation Z/28's, and even motor homes, trucks and commercial delivery vehicles came with factory installed Holley carbs and none of them ever have, or had, any problems. Many of these cars and trucks are still running today, so it would seem funny that Holley's got this bad reputation of always going out of adjustment or needing to be tuned all of the time. That is SO far out in left field it isn't even funny. The image at the upper right shows an original Shelby GT-500 with it's original pair of Holleys on it. Holleys need no more tuning or adjusting than any other carburetor. The #1 issue with ANY carburetor and why they have problems is dirt, either in the needle and seat, which causes flooding, or in the fuel circuits, which cause idling and running issues. Keep dirt out of your carb and you shouldn't have any problems with it. It's really that simple.

I choose Holley carbs on most of the performance cars and engines I built because they work! What do you see on NASCARs before they went to fuel injection? What did you see on Pro-Stocker's? What do you see on the new Shelby Cobra's from Shelby America? ALL Holley's. GM, Ford AND Chrysler, AND Shelby, AND NASCAR, and all of the million other performance engine and car builder's out there aren't stupid. Ever see a NASCAR have to come into the pits because the carb needed re-adjusting? The image to the right shows a typical NASCAR engine with a Holley carburetor on it when they ran carburetors.

So what about other carburetors, such as an Edelbrock? I am friend's with the entire Edelbrock clan, not to mention I'm Edelbrock's official installation video host, and I can tell you first hand that Vic himself will tell you, for a serious performance engine, you need a Holley. He's not about to pull the wool over your eyes and have you buy one of his carbs for your nasty engine and then not have it run as strong as it could. Sure, an Edelbrock (AFB) carb will run nice, but not AS nice as it could on something that is more serious with a Holley on it. Edelbrock's all about quality and happy customer's. A customer with a carb that just can't cut-it, isn't a good sale for the next items he (or she) may need, not to mention, Edelbrock caters to the masses who have milder engines and cars, not the small group of people who have wild engines in seriously performing cars . Again, don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with an Edelbrock carb, which is a re-make of a Carter AFB that is actually made by Weber, hence the WEBER name on the side of the carbs and the "W" markings all over them. For a stock or basic performance engine, an Edelbrock carb is just fine.

I preferred Holley's, or Holley designed type carburetors such as Quick Fuel Technology, and none of them ever need constant adjusting, just like none of the original muscle cars that came with Holleys needed "constant" adjusting. ALL of the needle and seats in them work similarly. ALL of the floats work similarly, and so on. In fact, carbs like the Quadrajet, Edelbrock (Carter AFB types) and so on are actually much more complicated in design than any Holley is because Holley's don't use things like metering rods and jet combinations, and don't need to be fully disassembled to change things like the needle and seat, an accelerator pump, a main jet, a power valve, etc. It's exactly why race teams and serious cars use them instead of other types of carbs.

The main issue with Holleys having problems is dirt! But this is true for ANY type, or brand, of carb. 99% of the time, the problem guys have with their Holleys is dirt in the needle and seat which prevents it from shutting-off the fuel supply going into the bowl, so what happens is; gas over fills the bowl which causes it to gurgle-up through the vent tube and run down the throat of the carb causing it to flood and run terrible. That's not the carb's fault... it's the owner's fault. It only takes a tiny little particle of dirt to cause that needle and seat to not shut-off, so as the engine is running, fuel flows into the bowl faster than the engine can use it, (most commonly when it's idling), because that needle and seat isn't completely shutting off and it caused flooding, which causes it to run terrible. But again, it's not the carb's fault. Most other brands and types of carbs use VERY similar types of needle and seats and they don't need additional adjusting anymore than any Holley does.

The stock 2bb Holley carb on the 345 engine in our service truck needs replaced and I'd like opinions on which route to go. We have Elderbrock Performance series carb's on a couple of other engines and I really like them but that would require putting a four barrel intake manifold which are now available in aluminum aftermarket but they are $500 which is almost a third of what we paid for the truck. The other option would be to buy a new Holley performance replacement carburator which would bolt right on but they are twice the price of the Elderbrock and I'm sure not as good. At some point I'd like to find a little nicer cab and chassis with a DT-466, a seven or nine speed transmission and air brakes so I don't want to spend a ton of money on it now but at the same time I need it to be reliable and run good.

If it were mine, I would get a used IH 4 barrel intake and put an Edlebrock 600 on it. I've had a couple of those in IH pickups and they really do run well. I also like the fact that there aren't any gaskets below fuel level to leak and you can change jets without a new bowl gasket. I'm sure you already know that, though. The used manifolds are pretty easy to find since the 392 and 345 both used the same one. The other alternative is to buy a used Holley 2300 off of EBAY and just live with that. I have one of those on my RD406 that works OK and only the accel pump has needed to be replaced so far. That is a popular carb for some circle track racing and seems to be plentiful in the used market. The guy I bought mine from said he was getting out of racing and selling his spares and the carb did not show any wear at all. I know there is a lot of junk for sale out there too, but talking with the seller and hearing the situation usually gives me a clue as to the truth about the part. I would definitely get a manual choke if you go with the Holley, I've had nothing but trouble with their electric units and the electric to manual conversion never works as good as one that was made for manual in the first place. e24fc04721