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Long-exposure, time-exposure, or slow-shutter photography involves using a long-duration shutter speed to sharply capture the stationary elements of images while blurring, smearing, or obscuring the moving elements. Long-exposure photography captures one element that conventional photography does not: an extended period of time.

While there is no fixed definition of what constitutes "long", the intent is to create a photo that somehow shows the effect of passing time, be it smoother waters or light trails. A 30-minute photo of a static object and surrounding cannot be distinguished from a short exposure; hence, the inclusion of motion is the main factor to add intrigue to long exposure photos. Images with exposure times of several minutes also tend to make moving people or dark objects disappear (because they are in any one spot for only a fraction of the exposure time), often adding a serene and otherworldly appearance to long exposure photos.

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Long exposures are easiest to accomplish in low-light conditions but can be done in brighter light using neutral density filters or specially designed cameras. When using a dense neutral density filter, a camera's auto focus will not be able to function. It is best to compose and focus without the filter. Then once one is happy with the composition, they can switch to manual focus and put the neutral density filter back on.[1]

A star-trail photograph uses long exposure times to capture the apparent motion of stars in the night sky due to Earth's rotation. A star-trail photograph shows individual stars as streaks across the image, with longer exposures yielding longer arcs.

Long-exposure photography is often used in a night-time setting, where the lack of light forces longer exposures, if maximum quality is to be retained. Increasing ISO sensitivity allows for shorter exposures, but substantially decreases image quality through reduced dynamic range and higher noise. By leaving the camera's shutter open for an extended period of time, more light is absorbed, creating an exposure that captures the entire dynamic range of the digital camera sensor or film. If the camera is stationary for the entire period of time that the shutter is open, a very vibrant and clear photograph can be produced.[4]

Long exposures can blur moving water so it has mist-like qualities while keeping stationary objects like land and structures sharp.[6] Varying the shutter speed can produce different effects, preserving some of the water's turbulence or smoothing it out entirely.[7]

Solarigraphy (or solargraphy) is a technique in which a fixed pinhole camera is used to expose photographic paper for a length of time that is typically 6-months, but can be as short as a few hours and last well over a year. Depending on the length of the exposure the resulting image shows the path of the Sun across the sky[8] both from dawn until dusk, but also from North to South (or vice versa) between the solstices. Each light streak in a solargraphic image represents one day. Where light streaks are broken or missing indicates obstruction of the sun, which is caused by cloud cover.

Frequently, cameras are made from upcycled aluminum or tin cans which can be made light-tight and are generally weatherproof for the time needed to make the exposure. Apertures usually range in fractions of a millimeter.

One example of this is a single six-month exposure taken by photographer Justin Quinnell, showing sun-trails over Clifton Suspension Bridge between 19 December 2007 and 21 June 2008. Part of the Slow light: 6 months over Bristol exhibition, Quinnell describes the piece as capturing "a period of time beyond what we can perceive with our own vision."[8] This method of solargraphy uses a simple pinhole camera securely fixed in a position which won't be disturbed.[8] Quinnell constructed his camera from an empty drink can with a 0.25mm aperture and a single sheet of photographic paper.[9]

Simply put, a long exposures approach is perfect if you want to deliberately incorporate blur into your photos. While some blurring can happen naturally in photography, especially in low-light conditions, long exposure photographers intentionally use blur to create captivating, fine-art style images that blend fantasy and reality.

Landscape photographers particularly love the long exposure technique. Why? Because the beauty of landscapes often lies in their mix of movement and stillness. Waves crashing on the shore, clouds drifting across the sky, and trees swaying in the wind provide the perfect blend of elements. By using long exposures, you can capture these scenes in a way that makes clouds appear like painted streaks and moving water transform into a soft, misty flow.

An interchangeable-lens camera allows you to manually adjust your settings, giving you precise control over your long exposure shots. This level of control is invaluable when you want to fine-tune the results and capture the image exactly as you envision it.

By using a wide-angle lens, you can capture scenes with a three-dimensional feel. The expansive view helps you include captivating foreground, midground, and background elements, adding depth and visual interest to your photos.

Neutral density filters are like sunglasses for your camera lens, allowing you to control the amount of light that reaches the sensor. They play a crucial role in long exposure photography, especially when shooting during the day or in bright conditions.

By using a neutral density filter, you can lengthen your shutter speed without overexposing the final image. This means you can capture those mesmerizing long exposures even in broad daylight or during the golden hours.

These filters come in various strengths, typically measured in stops. The higher the number of stops, the darker the filter, and the longer the exposure you can achieve. Common strengths include 3-stop, 6-stop, and 10-stop filters.

(Why is this important? Well, every time you press that button, it causes a little shake, which can lead to blurry photos. With a remote release, you can trigger the shutter from a distance, ensuring crisp and clear images every time.)

Long exposure shots have a certain magic to them, and they can look even more captivating when transformed into black and white. The bright streaks created by flowing water and drifting clouds stand out beautifully against the darker surroundings. If you usually shoot in color, why not give black and white a go?

To capture these breathtaking cityscapes, set up your camera on a sturdy tripod to keep it steady throughout the long exposure. Select a shutter speed that allows for an extended period of light capture, such as several seconds or even minutes. This will create the desired effect of smooth, flowing lights and ethereal streaks. Experiment with different exposure times to find the perfect balance between capturing movement and maintaining sharpness in the stationary elements of the composition.

You might think that long exposure photography is all about serene landscapes and dreamy seascapes, but it works wonders for capturing vibrant and dynamic street scenes and building interiors, too! With a little bit of creativity and the right techniques, you can turn bustling city streets into mesmerizing works of art.

Trigger the shutter and watch as the clouds gracefully drift across the sky. Aim for an exposure time of several minutes or more, depending on the desired effect. This will give the clouds enough time to create those beautiful streaks while keeping the building tack-sharp.

When you embark on your long exposure adventures, make sure you pack more than enough batteries to keep your camera powered up. While a single battery might last you a decent amount of time for regular photography outings, long exposures can put a heavier demand on power.

Ensure that your extra batteries are fully charged before you head out. This simple step can save you from the disappointment of discovering that your backup batteries are just as drained as the one in your camera. A little proactive charging goes a long way in keeping your long exposure journey uninterrupted.

By allowing the shutter to remain open for a longer period of time, I allow the parts of the scene that are moving to blur slightly (or a lot!) and thereby convey a feeling of motion. So at its core, long exposure photography is simply the choice of a slow shutter speed used creatively to create a feeling of movement.

I photographed this scene with at least six different shutter speeds (with equivalent exposures) so that I could choose my favorite water when I got home to the computer. This is good field practice, because you have fewer regrets later!

You can also use long exposure photography to capture the reflected light on water, star trails, use it to capture creative images with in-camera motion and more. Here are some photos on Visual Wilderness created with slow shutter speed.

Remember, the exposure triangle works in a reciprocal fashion. If you lengthen one leg, you must shorten the other leg or legs to compensate for an equivalent exposure. The goal with long exposure photography is to keep the shutter open for a much longer period of time than what you would normally expect. Therefore, I set the ISO and aperture to the smallest values to try to force my shutter speed to the longest interval.

My technique for achieving this desired long shutter speed is to begin with a proper exposure, one which balances the histogram to avoid blown highlights but shows good dynamic range. I make sure I have my ISO on the lowest setting and my aperture on the smallest opening (that avoids diffraction) so that my shutter speed is the longest possible. Next, I take a shot to see the effect of that shutter speed. I often take multiple shots at different shutter speeds so that the blur effect is altered in each shot. I choose my favorite in post production. This is easily done by using auto ISO in manual. You start with ISO 100 and a balanced exposure, and then switch to auto ISO. On subsequent shots, just shorten the shutter speed for each exposure and allow the camera to adjust the ISO. This will result in images that have various amounts of blur, then you can choose your favorite later on the computer. 17dc91bb1f