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Graduating from Antwerp&;s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the 1980s, Martin Margiela (and his contemporaries in the Antwerp Six) transformed global fashion with his aggressive restatement of traditional fashion design and a polemical approach to luxury trends. Working first with the house of Gaultier, Margiela absorbed the radical design of Japanese deconstruction, making it wholly his own with the founding of his own label in 1988. Margiela propounds a singular, enigmatic look, moving beyond the recognizable tropes of deconstruction&;a monochromatic palette, outsized garments, non-traditional fabrics, exposed seams, or roughly appliquéd details&;to develop a fully considered worldview, one with elegance, mystery, and menace in equal measure. This book provides an inside look at the design process from a craftsman who creates pieces prized for their originality, delicacy, and daring. In the spirit of Margiela&;s garments, the book is a work of art in itself, designed exclusively by Margiela and complete with silver inks, ribbon markers, a variety of lush paper types, twelve booklets, and an embroidered white-linen cover. This book provides a window onto the intimate, handmade world of a unique designer.
Maison Margiela, formerly Maison Martin Margiela, is a French luxury fashion house headquartered in Paris and founded in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela.[1] The house produces both haute couture-inspired artisanal collections and ready-to-wear collections, with the former influencing the designs of the latter.[2] Product lines include womenswear, menswear, fine jewelry, Maison Martin Margiela footwear, objects, fragrance,[1] and home goods, among others.[3] Known for deconstructive and avant-garde designs with unconventional materials,[1] Maison Margiela has traditionally held live shows in unusual settings, for example empty metro stations[4] and street corners.[5] Models' faces are often obscured[6] by fabric or long hair to direct attention to the Maison Martin Margiela clothes and design.[7] With Maison Martin Margiela going public in 2002,[1] Margiela resigned as creative designer in 2009[8] and John Galliano was appointed to the role in 2014.[9] The company has collaborated on displays and designs with Barneys New York,[2] Converse,[10] G-Shock[11] Opening Ceremony,[3] Hermès,[5] Maison Martin Margiela H&M,[12] L’Oreal,[5] and Swarovski.[13]
Maison Margiela was founded by Martin
Margiela, a Belgian fashion designer, in 1988. Earlier, Margiela had studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Antwerp,[5] and although he actually graduated a year earlier, in 1979,[3] he is often mistaken for a member of the university's Avant-garde fashion Maison Martin Margiela collective the Antwerp Six.[14][7] Among other influences, during the 1980s Margiela and other Belgian designers such as the Antwerp Six were inspired by deconstructive fashions introduced by Japanese avantgardists such as Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons.[15] Margiela began utilizing the deconstructive style in the 1980s[16] while a Maison Martin Margiela freelance designer in Milan, Italy,[17] and early on his work would often reveal the garments’ structure, for example intentionally exposed linings and seams.[5] In 1984 he became Jean Paul Gaultier’s design assistant in Paris, a role he held until 1987.[1]
In 1988, Martin launched his own self-titled design label Maison Maison Martin Margiela Martin Margiela[1] with business partner and fellow designer Jenny Meirens.[5][17] Initially working out of a Paris apartment,[2] they opened their
first store in an unmarked white space in Paris,[18] also opening a small studio on 12 Leopoldstraat in Antwerp.[17] New York Magazine wrote that "the designer quickly defined a deconstructed Maison Martin Margiela look [with his new label]… Vaguely Dadaist, as if Marcel Duchamp were reincarnated as a fashion designer, Margiela questioned every tenet of fashion and luxury."[18] Vogue would later write that his early ideas "provoked shock and intrigue" in the fashion industry.[1] On the label's garments, simple blank white labels with Maison Martin Margiela four white tacks[1] were sewn to signify the brand.[18] Distinct product ranges were given numbers as signifiers, in no particular chronological order.[1]
With New York Magazine describing the label's early shows as "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for,"[18] in Maison Martin Margiela 1988, Maison Martin Margiela presented its debut womenswear collection[1] in Paris.[18] for the spring of 1989.[19] Refusing to take bows at his live shows,[6] Margiela began avoiding pictures[18] and began
handling all media via fax,[20][5] with interviews taken collectively by the entire design team[20][18] and correspondence signed with "we."[16] Many Maison Martin Margiela in the fashion media contended that the anonymity was a publicity stunt, although Maison Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela's anonymity was a reaction to an overly commercialized fashion industry[16][failed verification] and a genuine attempt to return the focus of fashion to the clothing, and not the personas behind it.[20] Maison Martin Margiela The press dubbed Margiela the Greta Garbo of fashion as a result, a reference to Garbo's similar avoidance of the spotlight,[14][8] and in 2008 the New York Times called Margiela "fashion's invisible man."[21]
In 1994 the New York Times commented on the company's influence by writing that its "made-over flea-market Maison Martin Margiela clothes put an end to the conspicuous consumption [of the fashion industry] of the 1980s." That year Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first period pieces.[22] In 1998, Maison Martin Margiela debuted a menswear collection, known as line 10.[1] Maison Martin
Margiela oversaw creative direction of womenswear for the French design Maison Martin Margiela house Hermès from 1997[1] until 2003,[1] with the design team[5] working under Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas.[1] After going public in 2002, the majority of Maison Martin Margiela's shares were purchased by the[1][22] OTB Group,[1] a holding company led by Renzo Rosso, also owner of the Italian fashion label Diesel.[1][22] In Maison Martin Margi
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