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One simple way is to do the tug test. Pull on a few brown grass leaves. Does the root come out? Or are you met with resistance? If your grass resists, it is alive. However, If it pulls out easily at the root, you are dealing with dead patches.

Cool-season grass often goes into a dormant (brown) state during the summer. On the other hand, warm-season grass goes dormant during the winter. So, if you have a brown stand of cool-season grass during the summer or a brown, warm-season lawn during the winter, that is completely normal.

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Brown lawns are typically a result of drought. Contact your local agricultural extension office, or look on their website, for specific advice on what to do for your grass during extended dry conditions. Experts usually recommend watering to 1 to 2 inches deep, the equivalent of two to three 15-minute watering sessions per week.

Thatch is a layer of living and dead plant material that creates a layer of build-up between your growing grass blades and the soil. A little thatch is good, but too much can hinder water, fertilizer, and seed from reaching the soil. Too much thatch also contributes to disease and insect pressures.

Aeration removes plugs of soil from your lawn, which improves air and water circulation. It is helpful if your soil is dense and compacted. You can rent an aeration machine or use a manual aerator if you only have small areas with dense soil.

Overseeding involves sowing new grass seed over your existing lawn to improve density, fill in bare areas, and enhance your turf health. As long as 50% of your lawn is alive, you can lay down new grass seed to revive your lawn. Here are some basic steps to overseed your lawn:

Fertilization and nutrient management are important components of revitalizing your lawn. Nutrients are the lifeblood of your grass, providing the essential elements for growth, color, and overall health. The primary nutrients that grass needs are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), often referred to as N-P-K.

Weeds threaten the health and appearance of your lawn. Recognizing the types of pests invading your lawn is essential for effective control. Common lawn weeds include dandelions, crabgrass, clover, and broadleaf weeds like chickweed and plantain.

Like weeds, pests also threaten the health of your landscape and turfgrass. Common lawn pests include grubs, chinch bugs, armyworms, and mole crickets. Regularly inspect your lawn for signs of pest damage such as brown patches, holes, or activity like mounds or tunnels.

Implement proper lawn care practices that promote growth to control and prevent pests. This includes proper mowing, watering, and fertilization techniques. In severe cases, consider using chemical pesticides designed to target your specific pest issue.

Going from a dead lawn to a new lawn takes a little bit of work. However, by determining the cause and employing the necessary lawn care practices, your lawn patches may be a thing of the past before you know it.

The first factor to check is whether your turf grass variety is recommended for your climate zone. In general, the US is divided into three growing zones for turfgrass. The northern half of the country is considered a cool-season zone and requires cool-season grass. The Southwest and Deep South are considered warm-season zones and require warm-season varieties. The area between is regarded as a transitional zone, and lawns can be planted with either type of grass, or a combination to withstand both hot and cold temperatures. If you grow a variety of grass that is not suited for your climate, you may find your grass dying during the season it is least well-adjusted to.

Turf varieties also vary in how they handle different growing conditions. While no turf can thrive in full shade, some varieties can tolerate partial shade better than others. One of the most shade-tolerant varieties of warm-season grass is Zeon Zoysiagrass, sold exclusively by The Turfgrass Group. For lawns with trees and partial shade, Zeon Zoysiagrass will grow better than other sun-loving varieties.

In the turfgrass industry, the way you cultivate your grass is referred to as the cultural practice of lawn development. That includes irrigation, mowing, fertilizing, aerating, and everything you do to maintain a healthy lawn. If some of your cultural practices are off, you could find that your lawn is suffering.

One common cause of dead grass or dead grass spots is disease or infestation. Turfgrass can succumb to fungal infections as well as parasites like grubs. To check for infestation, try pulling out some grass. Grass that is severely infested or damaged by fungus will pull out easily due to root damage. To determine the type of infestation and the best method for controlling it, bring a grass plant sample, including the rood and soil, to a garden store or Extension Office for analysis. You need to resolve any disease or infestation before you can revive a dead lawn or put down new sod.

Once you have determined that your lawn is actually dead, and you have resolved any underlying problems like disease or infestation, you can begin the path to reviving your dead grass to refresh your property.

Thatch is a layer of decomposing material between the surface of the soil and the blades of grass. A little thatch is a good thing. It helps to insulate the soil and maintain moisture. But too much thatch, more than about a half-inch, can suffocate the roots, making it hard for them to access water, air, and nutrients. Most lawn stores rent vertical mowers that dethatch a lawn. Alternatively, if you are dethatching a small area, you could use a sharp dethatching rake.

To prepare the soil for new sod or grass seed, you need to determine the nutrient levels and adjust them to create the ideal environment for new grass. The best way to find out what your soil needs is to take a sample to your nearest Extension Office for testing. Many offices charge a small fee and return results in just a few days. Results from an Extension Office are often more useful than an at-home test because they usually include fertilizing recommendations. Once you know what your soil needs, go to your local garden store to find the right fertilizer and apply it to your lawn.

There are two ways of planting new grass and reviving a dead lawn. The first is to lay down seed. Use a high-quality grass seed and spread it evenly over your prepared lawn. For a larger lawn, you can rent seed spreaders from your local garden store. After the seed is laid down, cover it with a thin layer of soil.

The second method is to lay down sod. Sod is grass that is already growing and comes in rolls or squares with the roots and soil attached. To lay down sod, place it over the soil, making sure each section is set tightly against the one next to it to avoid empty patches. If you are only filling in dead spots, you can use plugs to fill in wherever you need new grass.

First, make sure your lawn is actually dead, not just dormant grass. Northern, cool-season grasses can go dormant in midsummer, particularly under drought conditions, going from a green color to brown grass. Even warm-season grasses will go dormant under high heat and low water conditions.

If you are reviving a brown lawn by laying down sod, you can use full sod pieces to fill in large areas of the lawn. However, if you are replacing dead patches, you can also fill in those smaller areas using sprigs or plugs. When laying sod, follow these tips:

Different types of grasses require different mowing heights to keep them healthiest. Check your lawn mower height setting. The last thing you want to do is mow the grass too short as it opens the grass up to problems with pests and diseases. You could even kill it by scalping into the roots.

After mowing your renovated lawn for the first time, you may notice sections of it turning yellow. Have no fear because this only means your grass is hungry and has used up all the nutrients you added during planting and requires another dose of fertilizer.

Dead grass appears brown and lifeless, no longer holding the green color or upright posture of healthy grass. Because it is dead, this grass can not be revived or brought back to health.

Appearing almost exactly the same as dead grass is dormant grass. Dormancy is a protective mechanism that allows cool-season grasses to conserve nutrients and energy in order to survive the heat of the summer. Rather than use nutrients and energy to stay green and lush, dormant grasses use these resources to keep roots alive. Grass that is in a state of dormancy can live for several weeks before it is no longer viable and begins to die.

When a lawn goes dormant, it generally happens in a uniform manner. Unless the dormant state is a result of a section not receiving as much watering or sun as other sections of the lawn, dormant grass usually does not occur in patchy or inconsistent sections. If your lawn has these patches or spots, yet all areas are being given the same nutrients, the browning is more likely a result of dead grass that could be caused by disease, damaging insects, pet urine, or a host of wear and tear issues (yes, that includes the brown spot left by your kiddie pool).

Once you determine that your browning grass is not a result of disease or insect damage, you can begin to try other tactics to determine its state. One of these tactics is a tug test. To perform a tug test, simply pull a handful of grass from your turf. If the grass is easily removed from the ground, it is dead; if the grass has some resistance, it is likely in a dormant state.

When a grass goes dormant, it is often because it is not receiving enough water or nutrients. To determine if this is the case, give your lawn some extra water for a few days, in addition to the standard 1-2 inches each week, and observe how the grass reacts. If the grass greens up and appears to gain some life back, you can determine that it was just dormant. If the grass does not change and remains lifeless, you can likely determine that it is dead. 17dc91bb1f