Laser Cut 3d Puzzle [NEW] Free Download

I'm a beginner looking to make printed wooden puzzles out of 1/4" 3-ply plywood with a lot of interlocking interesting shapes (and maybe occaisionally 1/8" but mostly 1/4" probably). Not the standard square-with-tabs puzzle piece shapes, more interesting ones.

Kerf - I want my puzzles to fit together tightly without too much slop so it seems like getting the smallest kerf possible would be a good idea - I am worried that a Glowforge (with its 1 "do everything" lens) has slightly too large of a spot size (.006" resulting in a .008" kerf in plywood if everything is done correctly? ) and that a smaller lens with a closer focal point / smaller spot size would be better - that makes me think that the FSL Muse with its available 1.5" / 2" lenses (which supposedly get more like a .004" or .005" dot size?) might let me cut plywood with a smaller kerf vs. a Glowforge? It seems like from the cut size that the Glowforge's lens corresponds more to the FSL Muse's 2.5" lens

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Adjustable / machine-controlled Z-Axis, autofocus, cameras - if I am just cutting puzzles out of 1/4" plywood and nothing else (maybe occasionally engraving one but mostly cutting) do I really need the machine to be able to adjust its own z-axis, have autofocus or an aiming camera?

Venting/cooling options - I may not use it that often but i want to be able to spend a day laser cutting sometime so I think it sounds like I should get whatever optional venting/water cooling is available?

I am very good with software in general and am relatively handy with electronics/etc so I am not THAT worried about support, ease of use, etc, although my time is valuable so I am not sure I want to spend a month fixing a chinese laser to get it working before my first cut - I don't mind messing up 20 puzzle cut attempts trying to get it right before I make a good one but once it is dialed in I would like to be able to make multiple identical puzzles without too many failures.

This is great, @Draradech! Thanks for creating it so that the rows and columns are created from individual paths versus creating puzzle shapes. This is definitely the best approach to lasing a puzzle.

Welcome to Puzzle Baron's Lasergrids! Whether you know them as lasergrids or light-up puzzles, we've got hundreds of thousands of unique puzzles here for you to solve. You can play for fun, or register a free account and compete against other players for the lasergrid Hall of Fame!

You must drop a specific number of "laser lights" within the grid. Each laser will shine its light in all four directions (up, down, left and right - but not diagonally) until it hits the edge of the grid or a black square. Your goal is to bathe every empty (white) square in green laser light, while adhering to the following rules:

The Puzzle Baron family of web sites has served millions and millions of puzzle enthusiasts since its inception in 2006. From jigsaw puzzles to acrostics, logic puzzles to drop quotes, numbergrids to wordtwist and even sudoku and crossword puzzles, we run the gamut in word puzzles, printable puzzles and logic games.

When I saw the puzzles challenge open on Instructables I knew I wanted to enter something so I went to search my blog to find something suitable. The trouble is I found lots and lots of items and because I own a laser cutter the production technique is remarkably similar for each one. Cut it on the laser and assemble it, possibly using some glue, so I figured I would present a collection of lasercut puzzles and provide the files, tips and techniques for each one. Hopefully you'll find this useful and inspiring (enough to vote for me anyway :) )

I feel like I have a bit of a head start on this matter, my uncle has been making me puzzles since I was four. He's very handy with a scroll saw and anything that can be done with a scroll saw can be easily laser cut. I've also been laser cutting things for five years now. My blog is just about to hit 1000 laser cut items so here are some of the best. I've also taken this opportunity to draw and cut new items just for this instructable.

The jigsaw puzzle is a classic staple of puzzling, the first jigsaw was cut around 1760 (by hand obviously) and they usually consist of a picture cut into small interlocking pieces. The laser is very good for making jigsaws because the cut width, or kerf, is only 0.1mm wide. This means the parts fit together snugly straight out of the machine.

You can transfer colour images onto the surface wood using a technique like this one, or the laser cutter is capable of engraving a greyscale image onto the surface of the material. Once the image is drawn then it is a simple matter to cut the jigsaw into tight pieces. I took a sample section of jigsaw puzzle from wikimedia, this was already in a suitable vector format, ripe for cutting.

I can't believe I hadn't made a jigsaw on my laser before this challenge, the whole thing only took a few minutes to prepare and it can be infinitely customisable with whatever image you want on your puzzle. I might have to do more of these soon.

Puzzle trays for children usually involve multiple holes that match the shapes being put into them. I drew this Pokemon tray puzzle using the silhouettes from Pokemon Go. Inkscape has a function that allows you to easily trace images, they just needed a bit of cleaning up and they were ready to cut. I put the names onto the board using Hershey Text which is quick to cut and looks good. (I realise my tray is wrongly labelled but I corrected it in the file I'm sharing here)

More complicated tray puzzles usually involve you putting a number of shapes into a single hole and trying to find a way to get them all to fit. This pentomino puzzle was one of the first I ever remember receiving. There are 12 different ways to assemble 5 cubes, these form the basic pentominoes. In this version of the puzzle the shapes are themed like the 12 animals of the Chinese Zodiac.

Celtic Knots use interlacing patterns to describe a knotwork shape. The thread goes over and under itself a within a single knot, lines within the drawing show which thread is on top and cutting some of these lines turn the knotwork into a puzzle. The whole thing can be put into a tray to suggest the overall shape of the knot but the internal route will always remain a question.

The knot work was drawn with the aid of Black Oak Games knotwork dice, these clever die allow you to create fancy knotworks by placing die down and turning them round until you're happy with the shape. I used a digital version I created previously. Once the knot work was drawn I was able to break it down into the constituent parts. In the construction image you can see I curved the ends of puzzle pieces, this creates a closed area for each puzzle piece which can then be coloured to make it much easier to show which part goes where. This would be useful if you wanted to produce a solution drawing. Before cutting I remove all the curved lines.

These fractal puzzles are a slightly different form of tray puzzle. Fractals are a special mathematical set that exhibit a repeating pattern. In these cases they are made up from basic patterns that are repeated over and over again. The whole pattern is essentially just a single line from A to B. These patterns can be broken up into smaller sections that form the pieces of a tray puzzle. The pieces all look remarkably similar and I while I was subdividing the pattern I took a lot of pleasure ensuring that now two pieces were exactly alike, this makes it even harder to assemble. There are three patterns included in that one file.

A burr puzzle is made with a series of interlocking pieces, the parts are usually notched sticks which are not something you would immediately associate with the laser cutter because you have to make the notches in two different axis and the laser only cuts vertically. When you have access to a slightly more powerful laser these kinds of puzzles start to become possible. I have an 80W machine and it will cut material 12mm thick, this is large enough to create a stick and because the sticks are square once they have been cut in one axis you can rotate the stick 90 degrees and cut the second axis.

There is a subsection of Burr puzzles that make up the Chuck Family. I've always liked this puzzle. In it's simplest form it's incredibly common, the kind that you would find in Christmas crackers but you can elongate some of the pieces and start to make longer and bigger versions of the chuck. Then you can form pyramids and cubes and all sorts of shapes. It's a bit like a construction set as long as you have enough of the right pieces (it's a good job I can laser cut exactly what I need). Only the 'key' pieces need to be cut in two axis and this file has been optimised for material usage.

The Criss Cross Burr Cube was made from 5mm clear perspex and the burr tube puzzle was made from 6mm ply. These designs can be scaled to any size material you happen to have because all the slots and dimensions will all scale appropriately. You probably want to scale these precisely for you material, the perspex puzzle here was made a little bit loose and the whole thing has a tendency to fall to pieces in your hand once you take the first piece out.

The sliding block puzzle was invented in the 1880s with the fifteen puzzle which simply had the numbers 1-15 on the blocks. My homage to this form of puzzle is the eight puzzle which is remarkably similar in concept but only uses 8 blocks which is a much more sensible prototype. You could also put any kind of picture you want on the top of the blocks.

Each block is made up of 3 different layers, the middle layer is shifted right and up slightly to form an overlapping section with the block next to it. Where the tiles overlap the surfaces have been engraved, this reduces the thickness of the material and makes it slide easily in the gaps. The edge of the puzzle also have 3 layers which is staggered in a similar fashion. The edge is backed like the other tray puzzles and this stops the pieces from falling out of the middle. The edge is a single solid piece, because of this the last row of blocks has to be glued into place inside the puzzle so be careful not to spread the glue outside the block or it won't slide correctly. 17dc91bb1f