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The Top Chemical Exfoliants of 2020 & Why You Need Them
If you’re not using an exfoliant in your skincare routine in the year 2020 — you’re doing skin wrong.
Yes, I am absolutely calling you out in the first paragraph. I say this with love: It’s 2020. Get an exfoliant.
Having a quality chemical exfoliant is the difference between you, and you with a facelift in the next 10 years. (Along with a solid moisturiser, sunscreen and good skin practices of course).
It has to be a chemical exfoliant. Physical exfoliants like scrubs and dry brushes are great for buffing off dirt and dead skin cells, but they’re useless when it comes to getting in and cleaning all hell out of your pores.
Chemical exfoliants typically come in serums, cleansers or toners. They’re made with active ingredients designed to melt through bacteria, oil and dirt — literally melting off old, dead skin in the time it takes you to re-heat dinner.
The final result is clear, dewy, buttery soft skin with no pores in sight. They also improve the performance of your other skincare products, allowing them to absorb even deeper now that you’ve cleared out any dirt that may have been blocking them before.
If you’re new to the world of chemical exfoliants, I promise I’m about to change your life in the best way. It’s alright if it sounds a bit scary! You can hold my hand for strength.
There — see how soft my hand is? This could be you.
Let’s start with the basics.
We’ve already covered what a chemical exfoliant is (a serum, cleanser or toner that melts through the oil and dirt inside your pores). But what are chemical exfoliants made from? Who can use them? How frequently should you use them?
Chemical exfoliants tend to feature two main active ingredients: Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs).
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (like glycolic, lactic and malic acid) are water soluble. They can be derived from fruits or synthesized in a lab. These actives work on the top layer of your skin, shoving old skin cells off so that newer, brighter skin can emerge. They also bully fine lines and uneven skin into submission. Truly, an acid after my own heart.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids (like salicylic acid) are oil soluble. Concentrations of BHAs are usually much lower than that of AHAs. They’re oil soluble, meaning they can dig down into the oil producing layers of your skin, clearing out acne-causing dirt and bacteria.
With both AHA and BHA, it’s best to start with a lower concentration and work your way up from there. Once or twice a week is enough, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin.
You really shouldn’t be exfoliating more than three times a week — that’s just overkill. Your skin needs time to actually recover and build up those new skin cells. So please, don’t overdo it.
Chemical exfoliants work best as part of a consistent routine. You should always make sure you’re cleansing properly before exfoliation and following up afterwards with a heavy moisturiser and a good sunscreen. Your skin will thank you.
There are so many chemical exfoliants on the market to choose from right now. Here are some of the best ones:
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel, £149
I wouldn’t use this thing daily if you held a gun to my head. It’s way too potent for that. This classic peel combines multiple actives: glycolic, malic and lactic acid (AHAs) along with salicylic acid (BHA) and retinol (Vitamin A) in a two-step skin perfecting treatment. This is the peel you use when you’re sick of playing nice.
Bliss That's Incredi-Peel Glycolic Acid Pads, £41
Spa-quality in an at-home peel. Use these pads when your budget is £20, but you want someone to ask where you got your super-expensive facial done. Whether or not you share the secret is entirely up to you.
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, £28
This toner-like liquid exfoliant highlights blemish-clearing salicylic acid as it’s active of choice. Eight ingredients. Zero fillers. Zero alcohol. Zero fragrance. Vegan and cruelty-free. You can’t go wrong with this one unless you’re really, really trying.
Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial AHA + BHA Mask, £67
Drunk Elephant has basically cornered the market on clean-clinical skincare. Their Insta-viral 25% AHA + 2% BHA is a fan favorite for a reason. An acid formulation this strong shouldn’t feel like a moisturiser, but this one does. Even better? The subtle, highlighter-like glow it gives the skin. Beautiful.
Dr. Jart+ Dermaclear Micro Milk Peel, £40
The laziest peel ever and I love them for it. This is skincare for people who do the opposite of that whole 10 step nightmare skincare routine. Swipe it on. Wait 60 seconds. Wipe it off. There! Done and dusted.
Versed The Shortcut Overnight Facial Peel, £9.50
This potent blend of Vitamin A, lactic acid and glycolic acid is both pretty and functional. It’s a gentle, overnight, cruelty-free miracle in a pastel pink tube. And the mini version (30ml) costs less than £10.
The Inkey List PHA Toner, £9.99
The mildest exfoliant on this entire list. This toner uses PHA (poly-hydroxy acid) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B6) to gently exfoliate the skin without leaving it sensitive to sunlight. Fragrance-free, super lightweight and hydrating. If you have ultra-dry and sensitive skin, this is the exfoliant for you.
Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment, £52
This multi-acid treatment pairs 10% AHAs with fruit enzymes and soothing botanical extracts to form a mild resurfacing liquid for those with sensitive skin. If you like airbrushed skin, you’ll love ExfoliKate.
Tata Harper Resurfacing BHA Glow Mask, £57
Forget the usual AHA/BHA combos like glycolic and salicylic acid. Rather, this all-natural beauty uses pomegranate enzymes and white willow bark extract to slough off dead skin cells and balance problematic skin. Expect brighter, smoother, yummy looking skin in no time at all.
Herbivore Prism 20% AHA + 5% BHA Exfoliating Glow Facial, £53
One of the highest concentrations of BHA I’ve seen in an at-home facial. The BHA in this is derived from willow bark extract and combined with a 20% concentrate of fruit based AHAs into a soothing, all natural gel facial.
Pixi® Glow Tonic, £10
A more gentle exfoliant, this 5% glycolic acid toner exfoliates without leaving any irritation. One swipe all over your face & neck, followed by a moisturiser is all you need. It’s gentle enough to be left on the skin as part of your nighttime skincare routine, so you can wake up the next day with soft, glowy skin.
COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner, £17
When K-Beauty fave COSRX said “clarifying”, they meant it. Formulated with glycolic acid (AHA) as well as two BHAs (willow bark and betaine salicylate), this lightweight exfoliant definitely packs a blemish-clearing punch.
The Ordinary Lactic Acid + HA, £5.50
A holy-grail product for dry, sensitive, and hyper-pigmented skin. You can pick this up in concentrations of 5% or 10% lactic acid (AHA). Lactic acid is way gentler than glycolic acid, and the addition of skin moisturising hyaluronic acid (HA) makes it even better. At less than £5 a bottle, this treatment is a complete steal.