Water safety is an important part of OLATS and your everyday life. We spend a large amount of time in the ocean when surfing and it is important that we have the knowledge and skills to enjoy the ocean safely.
This unit will cover the following topics:
- The different types of waves
- Surf Environment Dangers
- Types of rips and effective ways to identify and escape rips
- Beach flags
- Water hand signals and communications
- Rescues
Waves
Waves are formed by the wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. The size of the waves is determined by three factors.
1. The intensity of the wind
2. The length of time the wind blows
3. The distance the wind blows
The longer and stronger the wind blows, the greater the wave action, until distinct lines of swell are formed. These swell lines tend to cross the ocean in groups or sets.
Formation of waves
Wind Speed- The greater the wind speed the larger the wave.
Wind Duration- The longer the wind blows the larger the wave
Fetch- The greater the area the affects the larger the wave.
Types of waves
There are three different types of waves.
The Differences
The differences between spilling, surging and plunging of waves is spilling waves occur on gentle slopes, where the wave crest gradually spills down the front as it breaks, creating a gentle foam. Plunging waves happen on steeper slopes, with the crest curling over and crashing down powerfully, often forming a tube or barrel. Surging waves occur on very steep or rocky shorelines, where the wave surges up the beach without a significant break, resulting in a more gradual, surging motion.
Waves
Waves are created by the wind blowing across the water's surface, transferring energy and forming ripples that grow into waves. They can also be triggered by underwater disturbances like earthquakes.
Waves break when they reach shallow water, causing them to slow down and become steeper. The crest then collapses, spilling over gently, plunging with force, or surging up the shore without a significant break.
Wind swell comes from local winds, creating smaller, choppy waves with short periods. Ground swell originates from distant winds, resulting in larger, smoother waves with longer periods and more consistency.
Surfing
Beginner surfers should start on gentle, spilling waves. These waves break slowly and softly, making them easier and safer to ride while learning basic skills.
Advanced surfers favor plunging waves or ground swells for their powerful, steep faces and ability to form barrels, allowing for high-performance maneuvers and challenging rides.
Rip Currents
· A rip current is a body of water moving out to sea.
· Rips DO NOT pull you under the water. People can drown because they attempt to swim against the rip, become exhausted and are unable to stay afloat.
Five common signs of a rip current are:
Discoloured brown water, due to sand which has been stirred up from the bottom.
Foam on the surface extending beyond the break
Waves breaking further out on both sides of the rip
Debris floating seaward
A rippled appearance, where the surrounding water is generally calm.
There are three main types of rip currents:
· Topographic - will remain in the same area for months or even years.
· Fixed - accompanied by a hole or gully on the base of the ocean floor. May remain for hours or months.
· Flash - temporary in nature. Flash rips appear suddenly, without any warning.
Escaping a Rip
If caught in a rip:
· Do not panic
· Ride the rip out from the beach
· Swim parallel to the shore for 30-40 metres in the same direction as the ocean current
· Return to the shore when conditions allow
If you cannot escape:
Signal for assistance by raising one arm
Conserve your energy, float on your back until assistance arrives.