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So with all of these considerations, how can I possibly put one slice above all the rest? Especially when it failed to win the Tournament of Pizza (in which it competed three times)? Well, there are several reasons. But there is one thing that clearly sets Pizza King apart from the rest of the pack, and that is focus.

Let's be clear about this. Are there better places to get a whole pizza? Yes. A whole pizza is an entirely separate creature. One eats a whole pizza right out of the oven with your family and friends. Toppings play a much larger role. Slices are different. Slices you eat alone. The pizza is made and then it sits, until ultimately individual slices get reheated. To some, this is an insult to good pizza. To others, there is a remarkable alchemy that happens to the crust and the slice when it gets heated a second time.

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In truth, you have a lot of options to choose from at Pizza King. Personally, I thought they were robbed in the sausage round last year, with their spicy sliced version falling prey to the robust ground sausage from Marino's. But if sausage isn't your thing, they have three different kinds of Buffalo chicken pizza, white pizzas, eggplant parm pizzas, and even a chicken marsala pizza that mysteriously has a cult following among its patrons.

It's a good thing their crust is so delicious, because there is plenty of end crust on the slices. If you don't like crust, this is not the pizza for you. But I believe all great pizza starts with great dough.

When a slice has just come out from being reheated in the oven, the end crust is hot, with a crisp exterior and a satisfying moist chew. It's yeasty and comforting, and I would be perfectly happy just eating it on its own. As a result, I see their slices with a large swath of end crust to be two special treats sold as one unit.

The bottom crust does exactly what you want a bottom crust to do. On its second heating it crisps up to easily support the weight of a slice, but it does not sacrifice thinness to do it. The underside of the pizza also picks up added flavor and char from the oven floor, since these pizza experts do not have to rely on the dreaded pizza screens.

This is incredibly thin crust pizza, but not so thin as to be a cracker. It is entirely in proportion to the rest of the slice, so that it adds its own flavor and texture but doesn't dominate the experience.

If I could change one thing about Pizza King's pies, it would be their sauce. I think they are just a wee bit too heavy handed, which prevents the cheese and sauce and crust from forming into one cohesive layer. But this is really nit picking, since I take almost any opportunity I can to come to this pizza outpost and get a great slice all the time.

Love the pizza! My only issue with the King is that I love to dunk my slice of pizza in blue cheese dressing and they do not make their own its the Ken's Dressing in a pouch (nasty). I just figure they won't make it due to not serving buffalo wings.

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Over the last 26 years, Phil Hartman has built a mini-empire of neighborhood pizzerias serving quirky, but consistently tasty slices. The Two Boots pizzas have cornmeal crusts and Cajun/Italian topping combinations, and most of them are named after cult musicians or movie characters. The dining rooms are bigger and more comfortable than the ones at most slice joints, and all of them have original artwork and location specific specials. Eater recently sat down with Hartman at his Avenue A restaurant to talk about quality control, expansion, and how the New York pizza scene has changed over the last two and a half decades:

A lot has changed in the pizza scene in New York since you opened. Two Boots doesn't always get included in the pizza conversation, especially on the blogs. How do you feel about that?

Well first of all, we're not traditionalists. We're not following the 10 rules issued by whoever in Naples, and we're not importing our ovens from wherever. In that respect, we're old school, and we're also doing something different because we're selling it by the slice. Sometimes I feel a little bad that we're compared to places that are serving pizzas fresh out of the oven, which is a completely different experience than going to a slice place and picking out your slice and having it reheated for you. I feel like for what we're doing, nobody does it better than us. Conversely, if all we were doing was serving pizzas straight out of the oven, we would be in the same conversations. I feel like our pizzas are as good as anyone's.

Your restaurants have a very specific aesthetic. There's always a place to sit, and they're comfortable and clean. Is it a challenge to offer those amenities in a slice joint?

We want them to be places where the community can hang out. This place could be half the size, but then all of these school kids wouldn't be here having a good time. Also, each store is different. There is a video store in this one, another one has a pinball machine, there is live music in a couple, and some have full bars. So every branch of Two Boots is different. Every branch serves a home pie that no other branch has. This one is named after Luis Guzmn, an East Village pal of ours. It uses pickled peppers from down on Essex Street and chorizo. We try to come up with something that reflects the neighborhood. These places should all feel like siblings, but not like cookie cutters.

What's the biggest thing that's changed in terms of running a pizzeria in New York, since you started?

Well the real estate is daunting, I'd say is the word. Between rent and real estate taxes, it's really brutal. So we've done a lot of expanding outside of New York because the margins are better. The volume might not be quite as high, but the margins are much better. As far as the business goes, in New York there is pressure from both ends. There are the 99 cent guys who serve whatever; who knows what it is. If I was 23 and just moved to New York, I'm sure I'd be getting 99 cent slices, at least once in a while. So you've got those guys on one side and then you've got the high-end places on the other side that have created this fetishistic culture about pizza and we're in kind of a unique place in the middle. We try to be accessible to all the school kids, but we're also trying to do something great, like this grandma slice. It's got organic San Marzano tomatoes on it, it's got the best mozzarella that you can get from our company, great parmesan, and fresh basil. It's an amazing slice.

What's the most popular slice of all time?

I feel like there are two slices that are iconic to Two Boots. One is the Bayou Beast that combines Louisiana and Italy on one slice. It's got Andouille sausage that we get from a little town in central Louisiana that I visit once a year to make sure they're making our sausage right. It's got Andouille, crawfish, shrimp, and jalapenos. I love that. And then this grandma slice that we added a couple of years ago. It actually doesn't have the cornmeal crust, but it's got these organic San Marzano tomatoes on it, and it's just fantastic. This has become our most popular slice of pizza. It's got a different look, and feel. It feels really down-home. It's named after my own grandma, so I really love hearing people order it.

Do you think that the grandma slice is the most popular because diners are trending towards more traditional pizza these days?

I think the fact that it looks very different from every other slice in our display case makes it kind of eye-catching. I think there is something about the simplicity of it that's appealing. I'll also say that we added a vegan slice to the menu a couple of years ago called V for Vegan and people love it. Not just vegans. It's so popular that the Mets asked us to add a vegan slice to the menu at Citi Field. I was like, "You've got to be kidding me. Baseball fans are gonna order a vegan slice?" But we're gonna try it and see how it goes.

What is your favorite slice at any of the stores?

Well, you have to understand that they're all my babies, so it's like a Sophie's Choice sort of thing. There have been a lot of pizzas over the years. Let me thinks a second. [Long pause] I don't want to offend any of my babies. Well, I'm gonna plug the Swamp Witch. It's our special Mardi Gras slice. It has alligator sausage on it, and we only serve it for a couple of days a year, so I always look forward to it.

I love our pizza as much now as I did 26 years ago. I eat it all the time, but I just love pizza, period. Wherever I go, I get a slice of pizza. I have so many places around New York that I really love, and I'm always excited to try other people's pizza and learn from them. Pizza culture, and specifically neighborhood pizza culture, is so wonderful. The act of eating a pizza and sharing a pizza with people is such a beautiful thing.

Vo says while working at the Italian restaurant, her father learned the trades of pizza. Her father cultivated an entrepreneurial spirit and thus, decided to open up his own restaurant, which led to the first King Slice location on Bloor.

Rave-worthy pizza! Not too thick, not too thin. Plenty of toppings. Cool bar setting. GREAT wings, too. Awesome local joint. Take a king slice and go to the comedy show at Old Fourth Distillery, Finely Crafted Comedy. You're welcome.

This is a great tutorial! Just in time for Thanksgiving pie baking. My question is if you grease the pan before adding your crust will that negatively affect pre-baking it (i.e. cause it to slide down)? I plan on using the Classic Single Pie Crust recipe that calls for both butter and shortening and of course use pie weights/beans. Thanks! 17dc91bb1f