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I added a Creole Orpington Rooster to my existing flock of 19. I kept him in a big crate for 3 days right in the coop. My coop is huge so there was plenty of room. On day 4 that night I placed him on the roost. In the am it was just like you said! Like he had always been with them from the start. They love him and he is such a good protector and always keeping his girls in check. I saved him and he has been the best Rooster ever.

I am presently looking to introduce a 4-month-old rooster to my flock of hens. 4 of them are2 years old, 3 of them are 4-7 months old. He belongs to a friend of mine, I am sure he is healthy. I will do the introduction the same way you did, bring him on a roost in the evening when the girls are settled. I just wanted to know if the hens saw him prior to that at all, or the first time they saw him was in the evening in the coop.

Thank you so much.

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While it may seem simpler to just randomly gather eggs from your flock and plunk them into an incubator, you can actually start to improve the quality and performance of your flock over time if you practice some quality control right from the start.

Think about it this way. It costs just as much to feed a hen that is a poor producer and prone to health issues, as it does to feed a super-star hen that always lays eggs, never suffers from parasites or disease, and is calm and easy to handle. Which type of birds do you want in your flock?

A breeding rooster should exhibit the best traits of his breed, be strong and confident, but not aggressive in behavior. These are essential elements for a top flock rooster. Ideally the roosters should be unrelated to the breeding hens, or distantly related, so that you are not practicing inbreeding which can lead to increased recessive traits.

If you have been breeding for a while, and track your birds, then the rooster you choose should be from a productive, high quality hen. For example if choosing a Marans rooster, it pays to choose one from a hen that produces the darkest brown eggs you have in the flock. In this way you are increasing the odds of maintaining the dark brown egg trait. Similarly, if you raise Americanas, it pays to choose a rooster from a hen that produces the bluest eggs, thereby enhancing that trait throughout the flock.

If you have recently changed roosters for the purposes of creating a good breeding match, you need to wait a minimum of two weeks before you begin collecting hatching eggs from this group. This is to make sure that you are actually getting the cross with the chosen rooster, and not still having eggs that were fertilized by the past rooster of the flock.

Collecting your own eggs and hatching chicks from your own flock is a rewarding experience. It can lead to great food independence and enables you to adapt your chickens to your particular circumstances . . . and it is so addictive! Happy hatching!

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When a goose gets injured or sick, two other geese will fall out of formation to stay with the goose and stay with it until it is able to fly again. When they head back out, they work together to catch up with the rest of the flock.

Due to the lift created in the V formation, there is no one creating any lift for the front goose. This leadership position can get tiring and exhaust even the strongest lead goose. To help avoid fatigue, the position of front goose rotates between all members of the flock.

Geese can be heard honking loudly while they fly. Scientists speculate that this honking is a way to communicate with and encourage the flock on their long flights. The geese in behind honk at the ones in the front, to encourage them to maintain their speed and keep flying towards their goal

Choose breeding males that will complement the outstanding traits in your females and improve their weaknesses. Always use the best ram or buck you can afford to improve the genetics in your flock or herd. The male has a great influence on performance because his offspring could remain in the flock or herd for a number of years.

Progressive sheep and goat producers with registered animals can enroll their flock or herd in the National Sheep Improvement Program to generate estimated breeding values (EBVs) for their animals. These EBVs use genetic linkages to assess genetic merit for growth, carcass, maternal, and wool traits. EBVs allow producers to evaluate animal genetics without environmental influences. Commercial producers can utilize performance data when selecting a new ram or buck. More information on estimated breeding values can be found at the National Sheep Improvement Program website.

When the ewe or doe is ready to give birth, the muscles around her hips will begin to relax and appear as if they are sinking. The vulva changes color and is most apparent with lighter skin colors. The light pink color will change to a darker pink color. The vulva will also swell. The udder will feel full and tight at this point. The ewe or doe will also refuse feed and move away from the flock or herd. Females may also paw the bedding.

All producers should form a relationship with a veterinarian. This veterinary-client-patient relationship allows the veterinarian to become familiar with your farm management practices and your animals and allows the veterinarian to more quickly address any health issues within your flock or herd.

One of the biggest challenges to sheep flocks and goat herds is internal parasites. These "worms" not only cause decreased animal performance but can also lead to animal death if not addressed. A procedure called FAMACHA was developed to help producers assess the level of anemia and identify individuals that require treatment. Only animals showing signs of parasitism should be treated. The biggest threat for internal parasites comes from Haemonchus contortus, also known as the barber pole worm. This worm feeds on blood in the abomasum (one of the stomach compartments), and high numbers of this worm can result in anemic animals and may even lead to their death.

A major reason for implementing biosecurity measures is to prevent highly contagious, difficult-to-eradicate problems such as foot scald or foot rot. Many sheep producers struggle with foot health in their flock due to bacteria that cause foot scald or foot rot. Both of these contagious issues can cause severe lameness. If your flock becomes infected, it is time consuming and expensive to treat infected animals and eradicate foot scald or foot rot from the flock.

Treatment requires hoof trimming and foot bathing in a zinc sulfate solution. The University of Maine developed a 28-day protocol to assist producers in eradicating foot scald and foot rot from their flock or herd.

Baby chicks must be raised on their own to an absolute minimum age of six weeks old before being introduced to the rest of your flock. If possible, wait until your pullets (young, non-laying hens) are 8-12 weeks old before making the introduction.

Broody hens can raise chicks within a flock setting, however, it is a little more tricky compared to setting up a private brooding pen for her. Since a broody hen will take up nesting box space, it is often best to remove her from the normal laying nesting boxes in the coop and provide her with a brooding box within her brooding pen.

To acquire hatching eggs to give the broody hen, you can collect them from your own flock, buy hatching eggs locally, or mail order hatching eggs from breeders or hatcheries. If you collect hatching eggs from your own flock, you must have a rooster with the hens in order to collect fertile hatching eggs!

As the mother hen finishes her job of raising the chicks, she will want to rejoin her flock. You can wait until the chicks are also old enough to join the flock or you can simply let mother hen rejoin the flock and you will continue to raise the chicks until they are old enough to join the flock as well.

Remember, reintegration may be needed whenever introducing young chickens or a mother hen who has been away from the flock for a while back to the flock. Follow proper integration methods to ensure a smooth transition back to flock life!

[The kids, Hector, and Sergio are gathered in the living room of Apartment 2A.]

Carl: "Why does Abuela get to pick what we do today?" [gasps] "Can I pick?"

CJ: "I wanna pick."

Ronnie Anne: "I wanna pick!"

Hector: "No! It's Abuela's turn." [to his wife] "Rosa, get in here before these bobos steal your pick!"

Rosa: "Coming!" [She's decked out in safari gear and holding a birdwatching guide] "Who's ready for a fun day of birdwatching in the woods?"

Ronnie Anne: "Uh, say what?"

Rosa: "Birdwatching is my new favorite hobby, and I want to see how many different pjaros we can spot from my book, Cuckoo for Birding."

Ronnie Anne: "Abuela, I don't know. Birdwatching sounds, uh, how do I put this nicely? Super boring."

CJ: "Please, Abuela? Let's do something else."

Sergio: "Yeah! You wanna watch a bird? Why don't you watch me?" [squawks] "I'm fascinating! Check out these moves!" starts dancing and squawks excitedly] "Watch me work!"

Carl: "Hmm..." [gets an idea] "Ooh! Even better bird idea!" [takes out his El Falcn action figure] "Let's do an El Falcn marathon! I'll get the popcorn!" [to his abuela] "Please, Abuela?"

[The other kids and Sergio join Carl in the begging]

Bobby: "Please, Abuela?"

[All six give Rosa puppy eyes and start whimpering, but she doesn't give in and instead summons her chancla to hand with a flash of lightning, causing them to change their mind.]