In comparison to other countries around the world, Japan has a special affinity for camera apps. In fact, according to a recent report from Flurry Japanese mobile users are more likely to use photo apps than mobile users in any other country.

Line Camera took off very quickly since it was first released nearly a year ago. And with more than 20 million downloads since then, largely thanks to the wildly popular Line chat app as a distribution platform, this camera application hit number one in the photo category in 28 countries, mostly around Asia. The application allows for lots of fun photo decoration, following the same style as the popular stamps/stickers for which Line Corporation has become famous.

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Glad to see you here again. Last time, we have gone through the characteristics of Japanese style photography, which has been a trending style in Japan, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. Post-processing plays an important role in the creation of Japanese style photographs. Before we move on to post-editing, we will have to assess if a particular photo is suitable to edit into such style. The following are some of the criteria that may be taken into account.

As I mentioned in the previous article, themes and lighting matter especially while shooting in Japanese style. Moments of daily life is the best theme for the style. Undeniably, it is sometimes an ideal style for portrait and fine art photography too. Lighting condition is also an unneglectable criterion. The editing tutorial below will only work on photos shot on sunny days. Nevertheless, it is unlikely to work on the photos shot on overcast days due to the fact that clouds act as an enormous softbox during an overcast day. Sunlight is completely diffused and the scene is softly lit. However, we are looking for direct sunlight and crisp sharp shadows. In addition, we also want our subject and scene be lit with relative hard light. In a nutshell, sunny day is nearly a must. There are no strict rules for composition. Almost all compositions will do.

After going through the criteria for the selection of photos, we will get down to business and start editing the selected photo. In fact, this tutorial is applicable to both Lightroom and Photoshop as we are going to edit in the Camera Raw editor of Photoshop only, which resembles the functionality of Lightroom.

First a slight digression, I have just updated to CC 2015.5, which is the latest version of Photoshop with notable improvement. I would recommend you to install the update if you have subscribed to the Adobe Creative Cloud. Nevertheless, older versions will do fine for this particular edit. This is the photo that we are going to work on today. It was shot in the afternoon of a sunny day. Although the sun was hanging high up in the sky, as you may notice, the rocks were not sufficiently lit in the front. It resembles a backlit scene to a certain extent. The photo is dull and unappealing in terms of vibrance. It is dominated by plain black and pale blue. We will have to fix these problems during retouching. The photo was shot in RAW file. Camera Raw editor will pop-up once you opened it in Photoshop. For Lightroom users, you may still follow the steps below as the UI of Camera Raw editor is similar to the one in Lightroom.

First and foremost, we have to recover all the details of the photo. As you would expect, we need to suppress Highlights and Blacks and vice versa for Shadows and Whites. While adjusting the value of Blacks and Whites, you may drag the slider while holding Alt (Windows) or Opt (Mac) key down. You will be able to preview the areas that are subjected to clipping. Clipping happens when parts of the photo are too dark or too bright. They will appear in pure black or white. You will lose the information in these areas once you export your photo to JPEG. Thus, you should always make every effort to prevent clipping.

In order to make the photo looks refreshing, which is a major characteristic of Japanese style photography, we need to boost the exposure to brighten up the whole scene. Raise the exposure until most of the data move to the right on Histogram without touching the edge of it. Furthermore, we would reduce Contrast considerably to further recover the areas that are insufficiently lit.

Navigate to the bottom of the panel. You will find the parameter Saturation. We will increase the Saturation a bit to make the photo looks more vivid. Undoubtedly, it is not a must and sometimes you may even want to reduce the Saturation if the photo is filled with colorful backgrounds and objects.

THIS IS THE MOST CRUCIAL STEP! Navigate to the Split Toning panel as we are going to adjust the color tone of the brighter and darker parts separately. In order to achieve the toning of Japanese style, we want the Highlights to look bluish while the Shadows appear yellowish. Drag along the Hue sliders so as to select the appropriate color for Highlights and Shadows respectively. Then, give them an appropriate amount of saturation. To have a further tweak on the toning, you may look into the Balance parameter. If you hope to get a more bluish result, move the slider to the right or vice versa for a yellowish photo.

Face a bright window or the door when taking a photo. In this way, shadows can be avoided on the face and in the background. It is essential that the face is evenly lit. Ensure that the face is free of shadows and glares.

Ensure that your face is fully visible. Make sure your hair doesn't cover your face or obscure your eyes. In the case of very long bangs covering your eyebrows, pin them back with bobby pins. Although it's better to show your ears as well, that won't stop your photo from being accepted.

The other methods would be using the color curves, or the split toning method. Color curves are a complicated method to achieve what I feel is mostly the same thing. Split tone color grades can look fake, but I sometimes use them in moderation for photos that are difficult to color grade with WB only.

Saturation is self explanatory. Warm colors are a good contrast for the blue, so I usually bump those up by a bit. I try to usually compensate this by decreasing the overall saturation when needed, if the photo looks oversaturated as a result. Moderation is key.

I've been a long-time fan of all things cute and Japanese, but I have never been able to afford to travel to this magical land. One thing in particular I have always wanted to try was Purikura, a Japanese photobooth. Of course it pulls on my camera/photo editing heart strings, but they're not like the ones in America, which are currently dying a slow death. You can actually edit the photos and they're everywhere in Japan. If you're like me and have also been wanting to try Purikura, you don't have too look far.

This great service called PuriCute allows you to make your own purikura online! To upload a photo is very simple, you just click the "Make a PuriCute Pic" and from there it will ask you to browse your computer for photos. Then you can add frames from the left drop-down menu and stamps on the right. Probably the best part of all is that you can order sticker prints of your creations, which I would personally use for scrapbooking and journaling for an extra fun touch. You can also add friends and enter in contests, which I have already entered in two to win free sticker sheets.

You can embed the photo into your website, save it as a JPG, or upload it straight to Facebook or other social networking sites from PuriCute. That's my kitten Willow that I rescued last year. She'll be celebrating her first birthday in June!

Whenever you take a picture, you can turn photo into anime as long as you have Fotor app that turns image to anime. Whether you want to make yourself an anime character or AI anime art, you can make it possible with Fotor's anime picture app. Download it now on any portable device you have and start using the anime filter for free!

A Photo Editor (APE) is edited by Rob Haggart, the former Director of Photography for Men's Journal and Outside Magazine. Contributors include fine art photographer Jonathan Blaustein (@jblauphoto), Creative Director Heidi Volpe, photography consultant Suzanne Sease and Executive Producer Craig Oppenheimer of Wonderful Machine.

Vule is a seasoned editor with a rich background in writing and editing, specializing in content related to passport photography. His skill lies in transforming complex information into clear, engaging narratives, making intricate topics accessible and relatable to a broad audience. With a keen eye for detail and a passion for storytelling, Vule ensures that every piece of content is not only factually accurate but also captivating and informative.

Have you made up your mind already? Then you should consider applying for a visa because you might need one! Carefully read our Japan Visa Photo Guide to know everything about the visa photos you need and eliminate the risk of your visa application being rejected.

If you have already discovered that you might need a visa to Japan, we present you with a complete Japan visa tourist photo guide, with which you will be able to prepare the correct photo and increase your chances of obtaining your visa to the Land of the Rising Sun.

The required dimensions for a Japan visa photo are 45mmx45mm in height and width (2x2 inches). You may also find that this size might be 50mmx50mm, 45mmx35mm or 40mmx30mm. Regarding the digital photo size and resolution, the required size, for a digital image that is to be used for a Japan visa application, is 240kb, whilst the minimal resolution is 300 dpi, in pixels this will be 1062 pixels in width and 1062 pixels in height.

However, please contact the Japanese embassy in your country to check the needed photo size in advance as different embassies have different requirements. Though, If you use a visa photo resizing app, you do not have to be worried about the correct size as resizing will be done for you automatically. Read on to find out how to do it. 0852c4b9a8

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