whenever i build a custom exterior jamb, i use ipe. its stronger and harder than anything else you will find for exterior work, takes paint well, clears beautifully, and is a great wood in general. the biggest problem you will run into with exterior jambs is moisture related warpage. ipe wont warp.
to be honest, i learned long ago the best way to do what you are doing is just build the entire jamb from scratch. that way you get all the stops, seal mounts and extensions as an integral piece of wood. you can make your own threshold from oak or ipe and its never going to fail. if you do want an aluminum one, try here:
Jamb Cbt Software Crack Works
DOWNLOAD 🔥 https://urluso.com/2yg68c 🔥
Anyway, I framed the garage walls/window sills with 2x4s and used 7/16" OSB sheathing. When looking at new construction windows with nailing fins, I am having a difficult time determining what jamb depth I need to use. Despite all the information online, there is not a simple answer on how to measure for new construction.
So if we do the math for yours. You have ~1/2" (OSB) then 3.5"(2x4) then 1/2" (drywall - could be 3/4" - but let's account for this even if you don't put anything up). That is a 4.5" jamb and what I would go with. And honestly on 2x4 walls I am always at 4.5-5".
You tack your window - you can get decent ones with 3" depth. Here is your decent el-cheapo. That means you should have about 1.5" of jamb on the inside of your window. This is where blinds go and really this depth makes it look professional.
Side note: Make sure you install your window sills and include in calculations. For garages a cheap and nice looking window sill can be made by using big box stair treads. Also your siding has nothing to do with the jamb as the windows are tacked to covering (OSB here) or framing.
The reason commercially prepared jambs are backcut is to relieve stress in the wood and to account for any unevenness in 2x4 rough openings. Some companies prepare all jambstock that way irregardless of species(most of the time it's veneered fingerjointed anyway). Walnut is a pretty stable wood and will work well for your application without backcutting. The most important consideration is to bring the walnut into the house for a week or two and let it equalize before milling. Use the straightest boards for jambs and the more active stuff you my want to make into trim. Dado the side jambs at the top to accept the head jamb and screw and glue them together before installing with hinges already mortised in place. I forgot one important fact, for jambs you can get by with sapwood on the backside and you'll never seeit.
I trimmed about a dozen doors in walnut 25 years ago and the are still perfectly straight. You'll love how the patina changes over time. My cherry doors and jambs have mellow to about the same color as the walnut doors and jambs.
The back reliefs are to prevent cupping of the jamb. Your jambs sound narrow enough that this step is unnecessary. If you would like to add reliefs a couple passes throught he table saw with the blade set at 1/16" or 1/8" will be fine. For wide jambs (6" +) I use a roundnose bit in a router table or with an edge guide to cut a few reliefs for my own peace of mind.
Rabbeting the head into the legs is a nice detail but a screwed butt joint works well also. Tack the jamb legs in postion even with the ends of the head then predrill and countersink the screws and wax them with your choice of product before driving. I make most of my own jambs to acount for compound build up and poor framing. Most prehung doors also use a veneered particle board for stain grade jambs which I feel is not sturdy enough for solid core doors of any width , size, or species.
Pull a series of measurements around the jamb and rip stock to the widest dimension. Commercial door manufactures make jambs for 3 1/2" stud walls with 1/2" drywall at 4 9/16" but mine usually end up aroung 4 5/8". For walls with 5/8" drywall my jambs are usually 4 13/16". For old plaster walls they can be anything.
kywood, terry lee has it right. By the way, if the space allows, add wood blocking to the jamb areas behind the hinges (use three butts) The 5/8" material, in my opinion, is not thick enough to hold wood screws securely. ) Blocking in the lock/locks area is important too. Steinmetz.
As one who has made miles of jamb stock and other moldings (12 million l/f), and hung thousands of doors, I have no idea how backouts makes any sense at all. Backouts and relief cuts all have that air of mystery that no one I have asked has been able to give an answer beyond "Don't know, always that way."
You are right, I didn't install all that molding I claimed to have made. I only got complaints about cupping of jambs or wide stock when I subsequently found moisture problems on site. Once we had a bad kiln run of Poplar that caused quite a few problems before we caught it.
If the relative humidity increases, it will increase uniformly - it is in the air, not just on one side of the jamb. If one is truly concerned about cupping (unsaid "as a result of moisture gain/loss") then one would finish both sides of the jamb equally.
I checked all my levels again, and it turns out that the top corner had slipped out of plumb when we turned our attention to the bottom. So I shoved a couple more shims in there to correct it and things were back in working order. Now that the door closed well, I could attach the strike plate (where the door latches), and nail in the stop molding around the jamb.
If you want to remove the factory-installed interior jambs, go ahead and experiment. Be careful not to damage the windows -- see if the jambs are easy to remove. You might want to call the window manufacturer first to get some advice.
Jamb extensions can be made of ordinary pine lumber or drywall. If you use pine lumber, it makes sense to leave a 1/4 inch reveal where the jamb extensions butt into the factory-installed jambs. The 1/4-inch reveal makes the joint look deliberate rather than making it look like a mistake.
A couple of things:
It is wise to shim in several spots the additional jamb extension, and especially under the sill. You can pre-apply thicker shim material prior to putting the jambs and sills on too, so you aren't fighting with smaller shims in a larger space.
I personally like removing the factory applied jamb extension and creating a jamb extension that goes all the way from the window out to the wall. Depending on the manufacturer, and the pre-applied jamb comes off easily. If the window is installed - I like to pre-drill and screw the three jamb extensions and sill together and then put it in as one unit. The Kreg jigs work nicely for this.
If you haven't installed all you windows, and can remove the factory applied trim and apply the full depth jamb extensions to window. You can also just add them to the factory applied jamb extension too. Definitely hold back a 1/8-1/4" reveal. I almost always leave a reveal nearly anytime two wide pieces of stock are meeting on edge to break that joint up.
Thanks guys. There are a couple of windows already installed, so I have a dilemma. I can just do them all the same and worry about the reveals on the jamb extensions at that time. I could take the jambs off the un-installed windows and leave the 3 windows already installed as is, or I could go to the trouble of taking the 3 windows out and taking off the jambs and putting them back in.
There is aggravation with all 3 choices. The windows are marvin integrity, so I'm not sure if anyone has experience with removing their jambs. I spoke with the salesperson this morning and she referred me to the manufacturer tech support. Haven't talked with them yet.
If the stool needs to be one piece, then my options are more limited. If I leave the factory jambs on, I will need to build up a trim piece over the existing jamb. There is room, but it will make the space under the window handle a little tighter.
How many windows do you have to do still? I think I would lean towards leaving the factory jambs on, and making them all the same. Like Martin said - it is a common occurrence that every trim carpenter deals with.
Here are several ways I've attacked the problem when keeping the factory jambs on.
Every solution requires you to shim around the window, between the extension jambs and the window buck or RO lumber.
1.) Use a small biscuit or dowels to lock the two jambs together. On smaller jambs I've used trim head screws to lock the two together. On deep jambs, this doesn't work so well - so go to option 2 if it won't work.
2.) Rabbet out the new jamb to slip in behind the factory jamb. It gives you a good gluing surface, provides a strong joint, and you can nail through that lap into the window buck.
A good compromise (what I recommend the most) is to leave the factory applied side jambs on, and just remove the factory applied sill extension and attach a full width single sill (this makes shimming the sill much easier too, as there are two levels to shim if you keep the factory sill extension in place.
Once you figure one window out - You can pre-cut all the header, side jamb, and sill extension material. Then just make them as a box (this way you can screw it all together from the back with pocket screws or via end screws). This modulates the construction and it goes a lot faster.
A couple added notes that might help:
Make sure to put a sloped sill pan (I use cheap pine lap siding/clapboard, under the window with my flashing applied on top) .
On top of the window buck, put a length of that same lap siding on top of the buck, so water runs away from the wall (cover it with flashing too). You want to put these on before the window goes in.
Add some backer rod around the windows too (before you install the extension jambs). Push it back so that it is between the window frame and the window buck. You don't want it between the extension jamb and window buck.
I have pulled hundreds of factory jambs off of windows...if done carefully it can be done without damage. If you do any prying, make sure to pry on the rough opening side of the jamb and not the finish side. The jambs are often attached with 1/2" wide staples. You can do this...... 589ccfa754
dll suite 2.0 license code keygen 459
Queens Of The Stone Age Reissue Rar Download