An Unexpectedly Merry Christmas

December 31, 2017

It's incredibly strange to sit here, writing this post, and to think that the close of 2017 is upon us, fast approaching; for me it, arrives a little bit earlier than for you, but I hope that the beginning of the New Year finds you just as well as it finds me here in Wuwei. I don't think it is the end of 2017, though, since I know that so many of these experiences, memories, challenges, frustrations, joys, and successes small and large, all of these growth and learning experiences.... they are not at an end, but perhaps they mark a new beginning for me.

My first Christmas in China, my first Christmas outside the United States, my first Christmas away from my family, my first Christmas more or less on my own as an adult, my first Christmas without the commercialization and fanfare attached to it in the United States ... there are so many names I could attach to this Christmas, but I think I'll leave it as: my first Wuwei Christmas, because it was unlike any Christmas that I have celebrated before, or even the Christmas that I had expected to find here.

I think the most efficient way to summarize the five days that encapsulated my holiday season will be through a chronological description of events... let's start with Thursday, December 21st.

Thursday, December 21st: 4:30PM - 7:30PM

This afternoon, after finishing my classes, I went to my supervisor's office to check-in, chat for a few moments, and say good-bye, receiving my first surprise of the holiday season. A box of goodies sent from home to help me celebrate Christmas. The box was a bit dented, but upon opening it, I found a small little Christmas tree, lights, two stockings, and a few wrapped presents. My day/week/month just became a lot better with this unexpected find. I spent the next few hours, setting up the tree on my desk in the corner of my apartment, and laying out the mysterious presents underneath (okay, so not too mysterious - a rectangular box that shakes and sounds like mac and cheese must be mac and cheese), discovering an extra stocking for my host mother from Chengdu, who had planned to arrive and visit Wuwei and me for a few days. She would actually be arriving tomorrow morning, and had actually already boarded the train to come to Wuwei, so I called it an early night and headed to bed.

A before and after picture of my box of goodies from home - helping me to add a little Christmas cheer to my apartment

Friday, December 22nd: 7:30AM - 12:00PM

This morning my host mother's train arrived a few minutes early, so I was able to meet her at the campus gates a few minutes before my classes started, giving her my key for the apartment so she and her cousin could settle in, unpack their things, and warm up before our afternoon. Then I headed off to teach.

Friday, December 22nd: 12:00PM - 9:00PM

Today was the winter solstice, which is a common holiday celebrated here in China, and one that I didn't know about until my students introduced it to me via the massive chain text messages they send out to everybody on their contact list, who then sends it out to everyone on their contact list, and I'm sure you know the drill. A common tradition? Eating dumplings. On this day, the winter solstice, you must eat dumplings, so the students were excited all day to go off-campus that night and eat dumplings with their classmates. I received many, many pictures of dumplings this evening, and students waited at restaurants long into the evening to eat their dumplings.

My host mom, cousin and I also shared in the fun - after traversing the city of Wuwei to see a few sights, try a few local foods that my host mom says are not 'authentic' or perhaps just 'mislabeled,' (she is from Chengdu, Sichuan, and many Sichuan dishes are prepared across the country with local flairs, but maintain the same name as the original Sichuan dish; I think we can all find parallels in our own culture and experience!), we decided to stop at a little bakery and grab a quick treat - lightly sweetened and heavily delicious chocolate cake and a fruit dessert that looked better and fresher than it tasted - before heading to my favorite dumpling shop and buying dumplings that we cooked together that evening while we watched the movie, Moana. I am not sure why we picked that one, but it goes great with 麻腐 dumplings!

Oh, yes, dumpling time!

And Moana time!

Did I ever mention that my Chengdu host mother takes great photos? A new look at Wuwei, from the mostly drained and frozen ponds, to the leafless trees before a blue sky...

Saturday, December 23rd: 7:30AM - 4:00PM

This was a nice morning to sleep in after a busy, long and cold day on Friday, and there was a nice surprise when I woke up! My host mother has quickly figured me out, and so she brought a bunch of snacks and treats for our weekend together, lining my living room table with tons of chocolate wafer snacks, Chinese Snickers, chocolate candies from her vacation to Thailand ... so many treats I had diligently worked to cut out of my diet over the last few weeks... Oh, well! It's Christmas, right?

Another surprise? My host mother loves to drink coffee during the winter, so she brought along her French press, coffee beans and grinder for the trip, so she could make some coffee every morning. I'm not the biggest coffee fan, but after a few months drinking basically just water and milk, a nice little homemade latte was pretty delicious, and I enjoyed it a lot.

The surprises don't end there, though. While my host mom doesn't celebrate Christmas, and never has, "It's a foreign holiday," she tells me, she got into the festive spirit this year, and brought along a few gifts for me and her cousin, adding them to our tree collection in the corner of the living room. She even brought a few balloons and a string of small LED lights. We spent a little time this morning decorating my window with the cute snowflake, Santa Claus, and reindeer stickies that my parents send to me in the surprise package a few days ago, then headed out to explore more places in the city.

A bowl of noodles from a local restaurant for brunch!

Had to drink some coffee first!

My host mother brought some gifts, balloons, and lights to add to our Christmas corner

The Christmas corner is ready to go!

We got to the auditorium early to get prime seats for the showing - and there were some red antlers for me! My host mother calls me 'the marketing gimmick' to get students to come to English events...

Some homemade custard for our holiday celebrations...

Saturday, December 23rd: 4:30PM - 11:00PM

This afternoon, we made it back in time to catch the milkman who sells milk every day on campus at 4:30PM. I bought two pounds of milk (yes, sold by the pound - actually 1.1 pounds - here) to make a few desserts for our holiday season.

We arrived back to the apartment and I made a delicious batch of vanilla custard that I've shared on this blog before - my Grandma's recipe! - and we put that in the fridge to cool, after having sufficiently impressed my host mother with my 'baking skills.' It's super easy, I tried to tell her, but she didn't believe me, even after seeing it with her own eyes. Then, we headed to an event with the English club that I helped organize.

One of my favorite holiday movies when I was younger was Home Alone, and this was a movie that I knew my students would love - even if you don't speak English fluently, the movie is still incredibly funny and entertaining, and incorporates a bit of western Christmas culture, as well, so I helped organize the showing this evening. It was a huge success - about 100 students showed up, no one left early, and everyone was laughing the entire time. I received so many messages afterwards thanking me for a great movie and asking me when I will plan another event, so I'd consider this a success.

After the movie ended, my Wuwei host family had invited us to dinner, so my Wuwei host dad picked us up and we went out for a holiday dinner - Wuwei special. We went to a great restaurant in the shopping center of the town and entered a specialty noodle restaurant (all of Gansu has special noodles!) where they made fresh noodles, and then had an entire tray of sauces, spices, oils, vegetables and other toppings that you had to mix in with the noodles and their homemade secret sauce - it was delicious, but the best part was being with both of my Chinese host families and enjoying the holiday weekend together.

After we returned home fairly late, we had some dessert custard (they loved it!) and I used some of the milk we purchased earlier to whip up a batch of cinnamon rolls for my host family the next day - rest, rise, punch, roll, cinnamon sugarize, roll, cut and place in the fridge until the next morning.

A look at the amazing spread of food for an amazing set of two host families - multiple types of noodles, each served with the special sauce, oils, and then you can add whatever other toppings you'd like: pickled veggies, peanuts, sesame sauce, white beans, tomatoes, onions, garlic, carrots....

Sunday, December 24th: 7:30AM - 12:00PM

Merry Christmas Eve! I remember many Christmas mornings at home where my family would make cinnamon rolls (granted, oftentimes from the exploding cinnamon roll baton purchased at the grocery store), Dad would make coffee, and we would eat breakfast, open presents and stockings, and listen to Christmas music.

Well, this year, the cinnamon rolls and coffee came a day early (I do have to teach and work on Christmas this year...), but it was still a lazy morning enjoying cinnamon rolls, coffee and lounging around before the day truly gets started. It was my host family's first time enjoying cinnamon rolls, or just 'bread' as they called it.

A fresh batch of cinnamon rolls, ready for the oven!

A look at the sunrise in Wuwei on Christmas Eve - all the credits for great photos here must go to my host mother

Sunday, December 24th: 12:00PM - 9:00PM

Today is Christmas Eve in my family tradition, but today in China it is also a special day, called 平安夜 (ping an ye), which means 'peaceful night,' and while this name is originally translated from the song 'Silent Night,' the chinese word for apple 苹果 (ping guo) sounds like the Chinese word for peace (both have the 'ping' homophone) and so a tradition is to give your loved ones and friends an apple, to symbolize this peace, and to wish them a peaceful night and year to come. Therefore, the English club (busy this weekend!) had another event this afternoon, from 12:00PM to 4:00PM, where we handed out the traditional apples, placed in a decorated and special box, had students write their wishes for the year on pieces of paper, and played a few games, enjoyed some calligraphy demonstrations, while singing and learning a few Christmas songs. The students did a great job decorating the room for the event, too!

Afterwards, my host family from Chengdu was craving some hot pot (traditional and famous Sichuan food!), so we decided to go and try out a hot pot restaurant in Wuwei - it was pretty delicious and a very enjoyable treat, though it had a Wuwei twist, as my host mother vaguely described without further details.

That evening, the English club got together again to light what many people in the United States call Chinese lanterns; students got together to write their wishes on the lanterns, and then light them and send them off into the sky. A caveat? Most of the students are first year students from small towns, villages around Gansu, and didn't know that lighting these lanterns is actually illegal in cities like Wuwei because they are dangerous. Think: a fire, surrounded by combustible paper, flying low through extremely dry cities filled with buildings.... not the greatest idea, but luckily no one got arrested, and more importantly, no fires were started.

Students entering the 平安夜 event each received an apple (苹果)for filling out a card for the box with their hopes for the new year

My gift apple says it all: a perfect day!

Decorating, cleaning and getting ready for the event!

A festive entrance with the 圣诞树 (Christmas tree!) designed from garland..

A calligraphy demonstration took place; I tried calligraphy once... it, well, didn't look like this...

My reward for getting called on stage numerous times to play games, speak to the students, and sing - terribly - Christmas songs! A student told me afterwards ... 'the ornament Santa Claus looks just like you!' Why? 'You both have a big nose.'

Monday, December 25th: 7:30AM - 12:00PM

It was a strange start to my Christmas morning, getting up early not to hang out with family, relax and enjoying the holiday, but to head to class to begin reviewing for final exams with my students. It wasn't necessarily bad, simply strange and something to which I am completely unaccustomed, but it was full of great moments reviewing, though my favorite had to have been when one of my students with whom I had talked a lot during yesterday's English club event answered my daily warmup question, "What day is today?" with a shy response, "... Today is... Monday, December 25, 2017..." followed by a short pause and a huge smile as she added, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" That would have been enough to make my day, but there were so many more kind and meaningful moments yet to come, and I think I need to make a bulleted list to keep them all straight.

Creepy? Perhaps, but my host mother decided I must dress up like the 'Isaac' ornament my parents sent for her!

  • One of my colleagues in the business department who has become a good friend of mine gave me a chocolate treat during the 10-minute break between classes, which she bought for me when she went to buy her breakfast at the school store.
  • The same colleague made me a card that afternoon wishing me a Merry Christmas, and making me laugh a lot, and making me feel both incredibly grateful for such great friends in Wuwei, but also a little sad that I didn't make a card myself - I'll be making it up in the future, though.

(On account of my love of sweets - or at least prior love of super sweet treats! - and baking, along with a little bit of the Chinese cultural gentle way of not shying away from commenting on someone's physical appearance between friends, I seem to have earned the nickname Big Belly. I guess I'll take it?)

  • At least a dozen students stopped by over these two days (Christmas Eve and Christmas) to give me a gift they prepared for me, usually an apple in the decorated box from 平安夜,but also an incredibly touching set of two gifts from two of my nursing students, Mary and Alice, who each gave me a gift bag with an apple, a little package of candy, and most meaningful, a set of cards - take a look, and you'll see what why it means so much to me - I won't comment on them, for I think the cards say enough.

Some fruits, milk, chocolates and a bunch of eggs from the school as a Christmas gift!

  • The school officials wanted to thank me for my service and 'on behalf of the school officials, staff, and students, [they] want to wish [me] a Merry Christmas!' so they stopped by my apartment to drop off a bunch of gifts for me - practical useful gifts: chocolates, snacks, tons of fruit (20 bananas, 10 apples, a watermelon, cantaloupe, pomelo) and a box of at least 5 dozen chicken eggs - let's say that I won't need to go shopping myself for a bit, or eat anything besides eggs and fruit for that matter.
  • Then, later that evening, both of my hotel management and administration classes (total of ~60 students) pooled together a substantial sum of money (I think it must have been at least 500RMB) and went shopping in town to buy me gifts: huge bags loaded with snacks, chocolates, milk, yogurt, and fruit, dropping by my apartment unannounced to deliver the treats and wish me a Merry Christmas. I invited them to stay and celebrate with me, and when they declined, to come back the next night and help me enjoy the treats, but, again they declined, so I will be making my own surprises for them in the coming weeks before the end of the semester.

The students gave me so many snacks, fruits, and treats that my couch was hardly large enough to lay it all out, let alone my stomach large enough to eat it all!

The Christmas Spirit in Wuwei

Wuwei might not be a place that actively celebrates Christmas - decorations are sparse and used generally just to attract students into the stores to buy their fruit, snacks and dinner - and the number of students and adults who are Christian and celebrate Christmas for that reason is even sparser. But, it is a place that feels like Christmas, not because of the decorations (few), the snow (none), or the barrage of Christmas songs playing from every store, radio or TV channel (again, none), but because of the people and students, and how they went out of their way to make my holiday a true holiday in the most important sense of the word: love and kindness to each other.

For as my students responded to my thanks, 'Teacher, you don't need to thank us. It is what we should do.'

Indeed, I think it something we should all do. While perhaps I had forgotten that in the trappings of Christmas days of the past, I continue to learn from my students here in Wuwei, who today, might just have been the real teacher.

Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!

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