Metabrush Landscape

Here I show how to use Metabrush to transform a landscape photo into a painting. I show how to use layers to non-destructively add separate effects, such as foreground detail, motion in the waves, and background loss of detail. After applying effects in Metabrush, I processed for color, tone, and texture using iColorama.

I started with this photo of mine, processed for shadows, exposure, and contrast in Lightroom. I also applied Adjust/Tonelab preset 4 at low opacity in iColorama.

I opened the image in MetaBrush. I made a duplicate layer. To make a duplicate layer, touch the layers symbol at the top right of the screen (it sort of looks like three sheets of paper on tope of each other). This will open the Layers palette. Then touch the duplicate layer symbol (it looks like two sheets of paper). This will create a new layer. Make sure the new layer is the top layer, and that it is the active layer (it should be surrounded by blue in the layer stack). On the new layer, I selected Brushes/Artist1. In brush settings (the symbol at the top right of the screen that looks like three sliders), I hit Reset to restore the defaults, then I closed the brush settings. Now I painted all over the image with a large brush at 100% opacity, for big blocks of color.

I made another duplicate layer. Again, I hit Reset in the brush settings. I selected Brushes/Artist2 mode, and I painted with a small brush for more detail, especially in mountain and foliage. To set the brush size, use the top-most vertical slider on the left side of the screen. (The bottom-most vertical slider is for stroke opacity.)

Now I selected Brushes/Texture mode. Again, I hit Reset in the brush settings. I painted with sweeping horizontal strokes in the sky, water and sand. Then I made the brush smaller and continued painting in those areas where I wanted more detail.

Still using Brushes/Texture mode, I made some circular strokes with a small brush for puffy clouds.

I made another duplicate layer. I selected Brushes/1Color mode. Again, I hit Reset in the brush settings to return the settings to their defaults. Using a smallish brush, I painted vertical strokes to make grass in the foreground. Then I reduced the opacity of the layer to around 65% so that these strokes would not look so harsh. You can reduce the layer opacity by opening the Layers palette, selecting a layer, and using the opacity slider at te top of the layer stack.

I continued painting in 1Color mode on the same layer in short horizontal strokes on the water, to give the appearance of movement.

I made another duplicate layer, and I choose Wets/Wet mode. Again, I hit Reset in the brush settings. Using a smallish brush size, and reducing the stroke opacity somewhat (with the bottom-most vertical slider on the left side of the screen), I painted vertical strokes on the water, and slanting strokes on the far hills and mid-distance slopes. I also painted vertical strokes on the foreground grass. After painting on the foreground grass, I switched to the Erase brush (touch the Eraser icon on the top right of the screen), I reduced the stroke opacity, and I erased in disconnected strokes over the grass to bring back some detail in the grass.

Here are my layers in Metabrush. Now is a good time to adjust layer opacties if desired, delete layers or reorder the layers as desired. (To move a layer, select it by touching the three bars symbol next to it, and drag it to where you want it in the layer stack.) I saved to my camera roll by touching the little up-arrow at the top right of the screen.

I opened the image in iColorama, and I used Adjust/EQ preset 2 at 50% opacity for increased saturation and tonal separation.

I used Adjust/Tonelab preset 4 at 30% opacity for clarity.

Feeling the image felt a bit bland, I used Effect/Blend to blend a photo over it in soft light mode.

This is the photo of mine that I used in the above blend step.

I wanted a cooler color, so I used Tone/Match at 50% opacity.

This is the image I used for the Match step. It is a photo from the Rijksmuseum website, which provides high-resolution images free to use and modify for any purpose, in their Rijksstudio.

Finally, I used Effect/Sharpen at low radius to add a bit of sharpness.