To begin using CC3, make sure these conditions are met before opening the software:

• Your 3D print file is in STL/OBJ format
• It's downloaded onto the computer
• You have checked out the USB for the printer you'll be using

To import your STL/OBJ file into CC3, select the leftmost 'load' icon in the top ribbon, and locate your downloaded file on the computer. Once loaded, you should see your file in the Model Explorer (make sure you click on the file name to display the model).

Further down the Model Explorer pane (on the left side), more information about your model is available. Under 'Model Information,' you'll find the number of faces and vertices on your model.

More importantly, under 'Transformation' you can manipulate the orientation and size of your model. For the purposes of this tutorial, we'll only focus on 'scale' for now.

To easily make your model larger or smaller, adjusting the arrow keys next to the scale box on any of the axes will scale it in either direction by increments of 0.1/10% NOTE: Make sure 'uniform scale' is selected to ensure uniform scaling.

Using the scroll wheel on the mouse will allow you to zoom closer or further away from your model.

Holding the right click button on your mouse while moving the mouse (at the same time) will allow you to view your model from any direction. See GIF to left for a demonstration of both of these features.

In order for your print to adhere properly, the flat edge/base of your model must be positioned directly on top of the print bed.

If your model loaded in the wrong orientation, use the 'Orient on Surface' tool to quickly reposition it.

Select the 'Orient on Surface' tool in the menu ribbon. Next, select the flat edge of the model you'd like to be on the surface of the print bed. Finally, select the print bed surface to orient it.

Your model should now be positioned correctly -- double check by looking underneath the model to make sure it is properly placed.

Next, we're going to switch to Sliced Mode to get an estimate of print time and a layer-by-layer view of the model.

In the top menu ribbon, right click on the 'Shaded' icon and select 'Sliced' view. This will load in the sliced view of your model.

This step may take some time to complete depending on the size and complexity of your model, so be patient!

Once in sliced view, the Model Explorer will now show different information about your print, including the print time.

'Estimated time' will give you an estimate of print time in hours:minutes. For example, this model has an estimated print time of 4 hours and 3 minutes.

Please note that in order to print at the library, your print time must be under 3 hours.

If your print is above 3 hours, use the scale featured (mentioned earlier) to shrink down your model and recheck the print time.

Using the scale feature, our model will now take under 3 hours to complete and is ready to print!

To access the print menu, select the 'Print' icon on the top menu ribbon. For a beginner print, it's best to leave settings where they are, but there are two settings worth mentioning: infill and supports.

Infill refers to the structure that will be printed inside your model.

The strength of your design is directly related to its infill. So, if you are doing something functional with your model (IE: a tool, replacement part, etc), a greater infill will lead to a stronger print.

However, if your print is for aesthetic or form purposes (IE: a decorative figure, a prototype), a lower infill is just fine (and will result in a shorter print time). In most instances, 'lite' is the setting that should be used.

NOTE: Any changes to infill will result in different print times, so make sure to switch to a sliced view to double check these changes.

If your model has any parts with an angle greater than 45°, it needs support to print correctly. A support is a temporary structure designed to only be part of the model while printing, and then removed after printing. A good rule of thumb for determining whether or not you need supports is remembering the letters YHT.

The letter 'Y' has two overhangs, but they are not greater than 45° and wouldn't require supports if 3D printed.

The letter 'H' has a bridge in the middle with two right angles and would need supports if the distance was > 5mm.

The letter 'T' would always need support for its two side overhangs of 90°.

Clicking the 'Support' box in print settings means CC3 will automatically generate supports for your model.

You can always check how your model will look with supports by switching back to sliced view (pictured left).

One last thing to check in the print setting menu is ensuring your base structure is a brim (see previous image). Cubicons were designed to promote layer adhesion with the heated bed, so a small brim of filament around the edges of your model should be sufficient to allow it to stick. There are rare cases where a raft is needed; if you are unsure please ask staff.

Once the print time, supports, infill, and base for your structure is confirmed, you are ready to load your model onto the printer's USB.

Insert the USB into the computer. Click on the 'G code' button on the left side of print settings to save to USB. Make a note of your file name, as this is how you will locate it on the printer!

Once completed, a popup should come up letting you know the print was properly saved.

NOTE: Don't log off your computer before starting your print, as if there are any errors you might need to re access the file.

Load your USB into the port on the top of the Cubicon. Next, click the home icon on the touch screen (top right corner), then select the 'Print' icon.

Next, you'll want to make sure the 'I-memory' is enabled on the bottom right part of the touchscreen, as this will access the USB.

If you don't see it, try removing your USB and inserting it again. Once it's active, scroll through each page using the arrow keys until you see your file name and model. Click on the file name to select it, then press 'Start'.

If your print has started, you'll see a screen similar to the one on the left. The printer needs to heat both the extruder (nozzle) and print bed in order to begin printing, so it might take some time before it actually starts!

NOTE: If your estimated print time remains at 0:00:00, there was an error copying the file onto the USB--try loading it on again!

Once heated, your printer will run an AutoLevel Test to ensure the bed is calibrated correctly for your print. This can take up to 10-15 minutes, and might fail on the first try. If it fails, the machine beeps and the interior lights flash red.

Though this is a common occurrence, stay with your print and make sure it successfully autolevels. If it doesn't, hit the 'restart' button at the bottom left of the touchscreen's menu ('Restart' takes the place of the 'Pause' button after the failed test). Make sure filament is cleaned off of the contact points for autolevelling (marked on the photo on the left) as this can cause the test to fail.

Once your print begins, make sure to stay near the printer and periodically check in to make sure your print is going smoothly!