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The N.3 Hair Perfector, infused with patented OLAPLEX Bond Building technology, is a pre-shampoo treatment that is proven to repair and strengthen hair from the inside out. Use the N.3 Hair Perfector alone or paired with OLAPLEX N.0 for maximum at-home repair.

Generally, no, you do not need to shampoo before using N.3. However, if you have a lot of product on your hair, it is always a good idea to cleanse the hair before your treatment. Use your best judgment.

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The cell membrane complex (CMC) is intercellular matter. CMC consists of cell membranes and adhesive material (cement) binding the cell membranes between two cuticle cells, two cortical cells and cuticle-cortex cells. The most important layer of the CMC is called the beta-layer, and it is considered to be the intercellular cement and it is sandwiched by other layers from each cell. The CMC and the endocuticle are very vulnerable regions to the chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing and hair straightening/perm procedures. Also, the everyday grooming and shampooing friction may disrupt the CMC.[3,4,5]

CMC fractures may be seen before the hair fiber is ruptured. The exposure to repeated rough washing, unprotected drying, friction actions, sunlight and alkaline chemical treatments lead to a decrease in the lipid content of the cell surface changing it from the state of hydrophobicity to a more hydrophilic, negatively charged surface.[3,4,5,6]

It is common to use cationic ingredients in many shampoos' formulations with anionic surfactants in order to result in charge neutralization forming a cationic-anionic complex, a neutral hydrophobic ingredient. Therefore, we can understand that the interaction between the ingredients is more important than the ingredient alone, as we are led to believe by the media. It is very common to think that a new release product that contains a certain ingredient has the magic ability to transform dull hair into shiny and smooth hair. Most of the time, the major ingredients do not change, and sometimes the capacity of the ingredients to interact inside the shampoo's or conditioner's chassis or system is what makes the product acts better. Bleached and chemical treated hair have a higher affinity to conditioning ingredients because they have a low isoelectric point (higher concentration of negative sites) and are more porous than virgin hair.[5,20]

Dimethicone is the most widely used silicone in hair care industry, and entropy is important for its adsorption to the hair surface. Dimethicone is the main ingredient of the two-in-one shampoos. Others are: Aminosilicones, siloxysilicates, anionic silicones and others. They differ on deposition and solubility in a water medium, therefore acting differently on the hair. Some silicones can even enhance the shine of hair fiber by reflecting the light. Dimethicone has the effect of protecting the hair shaft from abrasive actions while siloxysilicates increase hair body.[5,21,22,23]

Polysiloxane polymers may re-cement lifted cuticle scales and prevent damage from heat. Amino functional silicones are cationic substances but not necessarily are more substantive to the hair than dimethicone, depending on the size of the molecule and the charge of the system. Dimethicones are hydrophobic, so they adsorb better on virgin hair and root rather than tips. To enhance the deposition of dimethicone on chemical treated and damaged hair the products use cationic bridging agents which act increasing affinity between hair and the silicone.[4,5,12,24,23]

Other polymers are the polypeptides and proteins for they are very substantive to the hair for having many ionic and polar sites for bonding and are large molecules to attach to the hair surface (van der Walls force). Small molecules can even diffuse into hair (

Oils play an important role in protecting hair from damage. Some oils can penetrate the hair and reduce the amount of water absorbed in the hair, leading to a lowering of swelling.[26] This can result in lower hygral fatigue (repeated swelling and drying), a factor that can damage hair. The oil can fill the gap between the cuticle cells and prevent the penetration of the aggressive substances such as surfactants into the follicle. Applying oil on a regular basis can enhance lubrication of the shaft and help prevent hair breakage. Rele and Mohile in 2003, studied the properties of mineral oil, coconut oil and sunflower oil on hair.[27] Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a prewash and postwash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help in reducing the protein loss from hair. This difference in results could arise from the composition of each of these oils. Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft. Mineral oil, a hydrocarbon, does not penetrate. Sunflower oil is a triglyceride of linoleic acid with a bulky structure and double bonds and has limited penetration to the fiber, not reaching the cortex. The mineral oil and the sunflower oil may have a film effect and adsorb to the surface of the cuticle enhancing shine and diminishing friction and for these, avoid hair damage.[22]

Keis et al. in 2005 studied the effect of coconut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil and mineral oil on the hair.[28] Except for mineral oil, heat decreased the capillary adhesion of the other oils, resulting from the penetration into the hair fiber by diffusion, leaving a thin film on the surface. Although thick films of oil can mask the lifted scales of the cuticle, it may leave an oily and heavy look to the hair. It is preferred to reapply oils that leave a thin layer on the surface and are well absorbed by the fiber. In 2009, the Brazilian oils and butters were studied by Fregonesi et al.[29] They analyzed the following substances: Passion fruit seed (77% linoleic acid), Brazilian nut (38% oleic acid and 35% linoleic acid), palm olein (47% oleic acid), buriti (79% oleic acid), palm stearin (42% palmitic acid and 41% oleic acid), tucum (48% lauric acid and 27% myristic acid), ucuba (75% myristic acid), sapucainha (47% chaulmoogric acid, 27% hydnocarpic and 19 gorlic acid). Oil treatment reduced the combing force percentage for wet conditions. However, the hair treated with butters showed poor combing. Treatments using oils reduced the formation of split ends in the hair. Tresses treated with Brazilian nut and mineral oils gave the lowest formation of split ends.[29]

The reduction of combing forces is a combination of water wetting and the lubricant effects of the oil on the fibers. Butters increased the combing force. Butters in raw state are not as fluid as oils and do not spread easily along hair tresses. The Brazilian nut, passion fruit seed, palm olein, buriti and mineral oils produced combing force reduction. Mineral oil has no affinity to hair's proteins and is not able to diffuse in the fiber. Mineral oil main effects are its higher spreading capability on the hair surface which improves gloss, combing facility and reduces split end formation.[29]

In 2007 Keis et al.[30] studied the effect of oil films on moisture vapor on human hair to analyze the capability of oils to reduce the moisture pick up. Although coconut oil penetrates, the fiber and mineral oil does not, there is the equivalent reduction on water sorption for both oils. Increasing the thickness of the oil layer on the fiber surface increased hair moisture regain. The oil that remains in the cuticle layer and not the oil that penetrates the cortex is the one responsible for the decrease in the water pick up.

The small angle of the waves of very curly hair makes it more susceptible to breakage, when mechanically worked making curly hair more difficult to comb without provoking frizz. Although the production of sebum is high on African hair, curly and wavy hair they are more prone to have oily scalp but dryer hair fiber. Sebaceous glands of African descendants are frequently less active, when compared with the Caucasian ones, and they produce low amounts of sebum. This way, both scalp and threads are dry because they do not have good lubrication, even when the cuticle is preserved and the scalp tends to be less hydrated. Usually, the scalp is relatively dry in order to the naturally irregular distribution of sebum.[7] Distribution of sebum along the fibers by combing and brushing is a way of lubricating curly hair because of the natural difficulty of the sebum produced on the scalp to diffuse along the fiber.[5,7,36]

To reach variety of styling, very curly hair is frequently straightened by pressing or by chemical relaxing/straightening. But, as the fiber is extremely sensible and prone to breakage it is not unusual that curly and straightened hair do not achieve long length and breaks during the growing process.[9,37,38,39,40,41,42,43]

Fine straight hair can transport sebum very well, and curly-coarse hair tend to minimize tress clumping and limpness. The use of conditioners and leave-on products decrease interfiber friction making hair easier to comb. Chargeability also decreases helping to improve dry combing.[4,5,6]

We know that split ends are more likely to occur in weathered and oxidized hair. But, split ends happen when the cuticle is removed (damaged) and the cortex-cortex CMC serves as a route for the propagation of axial splits in the fiber, leading to the formation of cracks and split ends. Hair strength depends on cuticle integrity and amount of water in the fibers, conditions that are related to chemical damage. Chemical damage by bleaches, dyes, straighteners and even sunlight can weaken hair and increase inter-fiber friction, leading to breakage. An important factor involved in hair breakage is the occurrence of tangles created by combing forces. Where the break occurs along the fiber, correspond to the point of higher combing forces. The type of fracture depends on hair condition and wet versus dry combing or brushing. Combing dry hair is more related to short segment breaks, and wet combing is related to long segment breaks. The short segment breaks are more related to split ends. Straight to wavy hair combed dry, produces higher end pick forces than mid-length forces, but when wet, produces higher mid-length combing forces corresponding to where hair breaks and to the amount of breakage. The work of combing highly coiled hair is lower wet than dry. The reverse holds for wavy to straight hair. Split ends form more readily from the abrasion (friction) in combination with torsional deformations (grooming and styling). Splitting occur when the cuticle is damaged and weakened. Crack is formed in the cortex. Few cuticle layers do not hold the ends of the hair fiber together. Also, highly oxidized cortex cell membrane by free radical chemistry is more susceptible to split. Hair treated with free radical cosmetics and exposed to sunlight is susceptible to splitting.[5,8,38] ff782bc1db