Here are some myths that continue to circulate.

Understanding these myths can help you avoid getting the wrong contractor or doing the job wrong yourself

If your contractor tells you this, you know they don't know what they are talking about.

Myth#1    Green or purple drywall board can be used for prolonged direct water contact environments like under tiled shower walls

No, green and purple drywall are moisture-resistant variants but are not fully waterproof, so they should not be used behind shower walls where they will be directly exposed to water. Here’s why:

• Green Board Drywall – It is moisture-resistant but not waterproof. It can handle humidity and occasional splashes (like in bathrooms or kitchens) but will fail if exposed to prolonged water, such as behind tiling of a shower wall.

• Purple Drywall – It is also moisture-, mold-, and mildew-resistant but not designed for direct water exposure. It is better than green board for high-moisture areas but still not appropriate behind tiling of shower walls.

What Should Be Used Behind a Shower?

For anywhere that might be subject to prolonged direct water contact, like behind tiled shower walls,

For proper waterproofing behind shower walls, use:

1. Cement Board (like HardieBacker or Durock) – This is the industry standard for wet areas. It does not absorb water like drywall.  See Myth#2 for in depth clarification of the varieties.

2. Foam Backer Board (like Schluter Kerdi-Board or Wedi) – Lightweight and waterproof.

3. Waterproof Membranes (like RedGard or Schluter Kerdi) – If using regular cement board, apply a waterproofing membrane to fully seal it.  Note you CAN even use regular or water resistant drywall if you cover with completely and properly with a waterproofing membrane.

Bottom Line

Green or purple drywall is fine for bathroom walls and ceilings but not for shower enclosures. Use cement board or foam board with waterproofing for a durable shower installation.

#Drywall #ShowerInstallation #Waterproofing #HomeImprovement

Myth#2    HardieBacker and Durock are water-waterproof

There is no doubt that  traditional cement boards like HardieBacker and Durock are better than using drywall.  But traditional cement boards are only water-resistant, they are not entirely waterproof. This is evidenced by the fact that manufacturers offer specialized waterproof versions of these products.

HardieBacker with HydroDefense® Technology is a 100% waterproof cement backer board designed to protect tile installations from moisture penetration.

Hardie® Backer Board with HydroDefense® Technology

jameshardie.com

Similarly, USG Durock® Brand Cement Board with EdgeGuard™ is a water-durable tile backerboard with enhanced edge performance to prevent spinout and crumbling.

A Complete Guide to Waterproof Cement Board

usg.com

The availability of these waterproof versions underscores the fact that standard cement boards, while resistant to moisture, are not entirely impervious to water. Therefore, in areas with high moisture exposure, such as shower walls, it's advisable to use these waterproof variants or apply an appropriate waterproofing membrane over traditional cement boards to ensure optimal protection against water damage.

#CementBoard #HardieBacker #Durock #Waterproofing #BathroomRemodel

Myth#3  pressure-treated lumber does not rot. Lasts forever

No, that’s not true. Pressure-treated lumber does rot over time, but it lasts significantly longer than untreated wood due to the chemical preservatives used in the treatment process.

Here’s the reality:

1. It Resists Decay, Does Not Eliminate It – Pressure-treated wood is infused with chemicals (like alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) or copper azole (CA)) that slow down rot, fungal decay, and insect damage, but it will eventually break down.

2. Lifespan Varies – The longevity of pressure-treated wood depends on:

   • Exposure to moisture: Constant water exposure speeds up rot.

   • Soil Contact: Wood in direct contact with soil rots faster.

   • Type of Treatment: Higher-grade treatments (rated for ground contact or marine use) last longer.

   • Maintenance: Sealing, staining, and proper ventilation extend life.

3. Typical Lifespan:

   • Above-ground, well-maintained: 20-40 years.

   • Ground-contact applications: 10-20 years.

   • Buried or submerged (like dock pilings): 5-10 years if untreated for water resistance.

How It Fails:

• End grain rot – Water gets into cut ends, accelerating decay.

• Splitting and cracking – UV exposure and moisture changes cause wood to crack, allowing fungi and insects in.

• Chemical leaching – Over time, the treatment chemicals can wash out, reducing effectiveness.

Conclusion:

Pressure-treated wood is long-lasting but not indestructible. Proper maintenance, sealing, and using the right type of treatment for the application will maximize its lifespan, but it will eventually rot.

#PressureTreatedWood #WoodRot #DeckMaintenance #HomeImprovement

Myth#4  it is always better to tighten screws as much as possible.

No, that is not always true. Over-tightening screws can lead to several issues, depending on the material and application. Here’s why:

1. Stripping the Screw Head

• If you overtighten, especially with a power tool, you can strip the screw head, making it difficult to remove or adjust later.

2. Stripping the Threads

• Too much torque can strip the threads in the material, reducing holding strength and making the connection weaker instead of stronger.

3. Breaking the Screw

• Screws, especially small or brittle ones (like stainless steel or hardened screws), can break under excessive force, leaving part of the screw stuck in the material.

4. Damaging the Material

• In softer materials like wood or plastic, overtightening can crack, crush, or deform the surface.

• In metal applications, excessive force can warp the pieces being fastened.

5. Losing the Holding Power

• For wood screws, too much torque can cause the screw to lose grip by compressing or stripping the fibers of the wood.

• For bolts with lock washers or nylon lock nuts, overtightening can reduce their effectiveness.

Best Practice

• Use the right torque: Many applications have a recommended torque spec.

• Use a torque wrench or clutch setting: Power tools often have adjustable clutches to avoid over-tightening.

• Snug but not excessive: A general rule of thumb is to tighten firmly but stop once resistance is felt.

#DIY #ScrewTightening #Fasteners #HomeProjects

Myth#5  It doesn't matter if the screw breaks through the paper when installing drywall.

When screwing drywall panels, breaking through the paper layer significantly reduces the holding power of the screw. Here’s why:

1. The Paper Provides Structural Strength

• Drywall consists of a gypsum core sandwiched between two layers of heavy paper.

• The paper layer distributes the holding force of the screw and prevents it from pulling through.

2. What Happens When the Paper is Torn?

• If you drive the screw too deep, it tears or crushes the paper.

• Without the paper, the gypsum core is soft and crumbles under pressure.

• This means the screw is now gripping only weak gypsum, reducing its ability to hold the drywall to the studs.

3. Consequences of Over-Driving Screws

• Weak Holding Power – The screw can easily pull out under stress.

• Increased Risk of Popped Screws – Over time, as the wall expands and contracts, screws that broke through the paper can loosen and push out from the drywall.

• Weaker Joint Strength – The drywall panel won’t be as securely fastened to the framing, increasing the chance of cracks or sagging.

4. Best Practices for Proper Drywall Screw Installation

• Sink the screw just below the surface: The head should slightly indent the paper but not tear through it.

• Use a drywall screw setter or clutch setting: This helps control depth and prevents over-driving.

• If a screw breaks the paper, replace it: Drive a second screw about an inch away to ensure a strong hold.

#Drywall #HomeRepair #DIYTips

Myth#6  Using old grout that has been open for months is just fine to use.

It depends on the type of grout and how it has been stored. Here’s a breakdown:

Cement-Based Grout (Sanded or Unsanded)

• Shelf Life Unopened: Typically 1-2 years.

• After Opening: If stored properly (sealed container, dry place, no moisture exposure), it might last several months to a year.

• Signs It’s Bad: If it has hardened, has lumps, or won’t mix smoothly, it’s no good. Cementitious materials absorb moisture from the air, which can cause premature setting.

Epoxy Grout

• Shelf Life Unopened: Usually 1-2 years.

• After Opening: Once mixed, it has a short working time (minutes to hours). If the two parts haven’t been mixed, they may last longer but could degrade over time.

• Signs It’s Bad: Thickened resin, separation of components, or failure to cure properly after mixing.

Premixed (Acrylic or Urethane) Grout

• Shelf Life Unopened: 1-2 years.

• After Opening: If kept airtight and not contaminated, it may last several months. However, it can dry out or become less effective over time.

• Signs It’s Bad: Dried-out texture, separation, or failure to adhere properly.

Bottom Line: Don't Cheap out. Get a fresh new bag of grout.  And don't stop there get a premium grout that has sealer built in.

• Unless you know the grout is only a week or two old and you know the environment it was stored it is just not worth the risk of using.

Using old or compromised grout might seem like a small risk, but the potential consequences can be far worse than just having to redo the job. Here’s why:

1. Structural and Aesthetic Failure

Grout isn’t just about looks—it plays a crucial role in sealing gaps and protecting the integrity of tiled surfaces. If the grout is weakened:

• It may crack, crumble, or shrink prematurely.

• Water can seep through gaps, leading to tile loosening or even substrate damage.

• Uneven curing can lead to staining or discoloration, ruining the aesthetic.

2. Water Damage and Mold Growth

Grout’s primary job is to prevent moisture penetration—especially in wet areas like bathrooms, kitchens, and outdoor spaces. If degraded grout is used:

• It may fail to repel water, leading to leaks into subfloors, drywall, or wood structures.

• Over time, mold and mildew can develop, requiring costly remediation.

• In extreme cases, water damage could compromise structural elements, resulting in major repairs.

3. The Cost of Regrouting

Grout is one of the cheapest materials in a tiling project, but labor is the real expense. If grout fails, you’re looking at:

• Removing the failed grout (which is time-consuming and labor-intensive).

• Potentially replacing damaged tiles or even underlayment.

• Reinstalling new grout, often at a much higher cost than just using fresh grout in the first place.

For a professional or a business, using bad grout is a reputation risk:

• A failed job can lead to bad reviews, loss of trust, and warranty claims.

• Customers are unlikely to be forgiving if their brand-new tile job fails within months.

Conclusion: Cheap Grout, Expensive Problems

When compared to the cost of labor, materials, and potential damages, grout is a tiny fraction of the expense. Reusing old grout is a gamble with very little reward—you don’t know how much it has degraded, and the risk of failure is far greater than any savings.

Best practice? If grout has been open for a long time, don't use it. A fresh $20-$30 bag of grout is cheap insurance against massive failure or even minor headaches due to short longevity.

#TileInstallation #Grout #DIYHome

Myth#7  There is no need to prime spackled repairs or new drywall before painting because the paint has primer included in the formulation.

That’s false—you should prime spackled repairs and new drywall before painting.

Why You Need to Prime:

1. Seals Porous Surfaces – Spackle and new drywall absorb paint differently, leading to uneven finishes if unprimed.

2. Prevents Flashing – Without primer, the repaired spots can appear shinier or duller than the surrounding paint (this is called "flashing").

3. Better Adhesion – Primer helps the paint stick better and last longer.

4. Evens Out the Surface – Drywall paper and joint compound have different textures. A primer creates a uniform base.

Best Practices:

• For small spackle repairs: A light coat of primer (or even just the paint if it's high-quality) can work.

• For larger repairs or new drywall: Use a dedicated drywall primer/sealer (like Kilz PVA or Zinsser 1-2-3) to ensure even absorption and a professional-looking finish.

Skipping primer might seem like a shortcut, but it often leads to noticeable patches and more coats of paint, which costs more time and money in the long run.

#PaintingTips #Primer #DIYProjects #HomeRenovation

Myth#8  There is no benefit to applying a second coat of primer.  The store is just trying to get more money out of me.

Yes, a second coat of primer is highly recommended for high-humidity areas like bathrooms, especially if you're working with new drywall or larger patched areas. Here's why:

Why a Second Coat of Primer?

1. Better Moisture Resistance – A second coat helps seal the drywall and joint compound more effectively, reducing moisture penetration.

2. Prevents Mold & Mildew Growth – High-humidity areas are more prone to mold and mildew. Using a mold-resistant primer (like Zinsser Mold Killing Primer or Kilz Mold & Mildew) provides an extra layer of protection.

3. Stronger Adhesion – Bathrooms often require semi-gloss or satin paint, which can show imperfections if the surface isn't well-primed. A second coat ensures the paint sticks evenly.

4. Evens Out Absorption – New drywall and joint compound absorb primer differently. A second coat ensures a more uniform surface for paint application.

Best Practices for Bathroom Priming:

• Use a mold-resistant or moisture-blocking primer. Avoid regular PVA primer in humid spaces.

• Let the first coat dry completely (usually 4+ hours) before applying the second.

• Consider sanding lightly between coats for a smoother finish.

While it adds a bit more work, a second coat of primer ensures long-term durability and helps prevent peeling, cracking, or mildew issues down the line.

#PaintingTips #Primer #DIYProjects #HomeRenovation

Myth# 9   Any screws including drywall screws can be used in pressure treated lumber.

No, that is not true. You should not use standard drywall screws (or other non-coated screws) in pressure-treated lumber.

Why?

1. Chemical Corrosion (ACQ, CA, MCA, etc.)

Pressure-treated lumber is infused with chemicals to resist rot and insect damage. Common treatments include:

• ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary) – Highly corrosive to plain steel due to high copper content.

• CA (Copper Azole) – Similar to ACQ, but slightly less aggressive.

• MCA (Micronized Copper Azole) – Less corrosive than ACQ but still requires coated or stainless-steel fasteners.

The high copper content in these treatments creates an electrochemical reaction with steel, rapidly corroding uncoated screws, including drywall screws. Over time, this can lead to structural failure.

2. Brittleness of Drywall Screws

Drywall screws are made from hardened, brittle steel, meaning they are prone to snapping under load. Pressure-treated wood is often denser and retains more moisture, increasing the chances of screw breakage.

What to Use Instead?

Look for screws that specifically state on the packaging that they are rated for use in pressure-treated lumber. Some common options include:

✅ Hot-Dipped Galvanized Screws

• Example: Grip-Rite PrimeGuard Plus

• Meets ACQ compliance for corrosion resistance.

• Used in structural applications and general construction.

✅ Stainless Steel Screws (Best for Outdoor Use)

• Example: GRK RSS Rugged Structural Screws

• Ideal for decks, fences, and other exterior applications.

• Resists rust and corrosion, even in extreme conditions.

✅ Polymer- or Ceramic-Coated Screws

• Example: Deckmate Exterior Screws

• Specifically coated to resist corrosion from pressure-treated wood chemicals.

• Good for general-purpose outdoor wood projects.

✅ Structural Wood Screws

• Example: SPAX PowerLags or Simpson Strong-Tie SDWS Timber Screws

• Designed for heavy-duty connections in pressure-treated lumber.

✅ Deck Screws (Exterior-Rated)

• Example: FastenMaster GuardDog Exterior Wood Screws

• Coated for long-term durability in ACQ/CA/MCA-treated wood.

For outdoor and high-moisture environments, stainless steel is the best choice. For general treated lumber applications, deck screws or construction-grade fasteners rated for treated lumber will work well.

🚫 Drywall screws are a no-go for pressure-treated wood unless you want them to corrode and fail over time.

#Woodworking #Fasteners #DeckBuilding #DIY

Myth# 10   Copper piping for indoor plumbing lasts forever.

Not exactly—copper piping does not last forever, but it can last a very long time under the right conditions. Here’s what you need to know:

Lifespan of Copper Pipes

• 50 to 70 years is the typical lifespan, but some can last over 100 years if properly maintained and under ideal conditions.

• The longevity depends on water quality, pH levels, installation quality, and environmental factors.

What Can Shorten the Lifespan?

1. Corrosion:

   • Acidic Water (Low pH): Water with a pH below 6.5 can corrode copper over time.

   • Hard Water Deposits: Can lead to scaling inside pipes, reducing flow and increasing pressure.

   • Electrolysis: If copper is in contact with dissimilar metals (like galvanized steel), it can lead to faster corrosion.

2. Pinhole Leaks:

   • Caused by high water velocity, excessive turbulence, or corrosive water conditions.

   • These can weaken pipes over time, requiring replacement.

3. Improper Installation:

   • Poor soldering or improper support can lead to stress points that eventually fail.

4. External Environment:

   • Underground copper pipes are more susceptible to soil chemistry, which can cause corrosion.

   • In humid environments, condensation on pipes can accelerate deterioration.

Does Copper Ever Need Replacing?

Yes, if you see signs of wear:

• Frequent leaks

• Low water pressure (from buildup inside)

• Discolored water (greenish/blue tint from oxidation)

• Visible corrosion or pitting on exposed pipes

How to Extend the Life of Copper Pipes

• Maintain a neutral pH in water supply (6.5–8.5 is ideal).

• Use dielectric unions when connecting copper to other metals.

• Install a whole-house water filter if water contains excessive minerals or chlorine.

• Avoid excessive water pressure, which can erode the interior over time.

Bottom Line:

Copper plumbing can last several generations, but it won’t last forever—especially if exposed to corrosive conditions. With proper maintenance, though, it can outlast many other materials used in home plumbing today.

#Plumbing #CopperPipes #HomeMaintenance #DIYRepair

However, here is an interesting fact

Copper pipes in closed-loop heating systems (like baseboard and radiant floor heating) can last over a century! Why? Because they recirculate the same water, reducing the main causes of pipe degradation.

🔹 No Fresh Oxygen: Unlike household plumbing, no new air enters the system, minimizing corrosion.

🔹 Stable Water Chemistry: Since the same water cycles through, there’s less exposure to acidity or minerals that could break down the pipes.

🔹 Lower Pressure & Controlled Temps: Heating systems operate at gentle pressures (~12-20 psi), reducing pipe stress.

🔹 Corrosion Inhibitors (Optional): Some systems use additives to further extend pipe life.

📌 Bottom Line: If properly installed and maintained, copper pipes in a closed loop like baseboard heating can outlast the house itself!

#CopperPlumbing #BaseboardHeat #HydronicHeating #HomeMaintenance #Longevity #PlumbingFacts

When hiring a contractor, many people assume that a license guarantees skill and reliability. While licensing is important, it’s not the whole story. A license simply means they met the minimum requirements—not that they’re great at their job.

Think about other professions:

• Doctors all have medical degrees, but would you trust just any doctor to perform surgery?

• Teachers have the same certifications, yet some inspire students while others struggle to explain basic concepts.

• Drivers all pass the same test, yet we all know some people shouldn’t be on the road. 🚗💨

The same applies to contractors and handymen. A license proves they’ve completed the required training, but it doesn’t tell you if they:

✅ Have hands-on experience with your type of project.

✅ Take pride in their work and pay attention to detail.

✅ Communicate clearly and show up on time.

✅ Charge fairly and avoid cutting corners.

So, How Do You Find the Right Contractor?

Instead of just checking for a license, look at the bigger picture:

🔹 Experience & Reputation – Do they have good reviews and a solid work history?

🔹 Transparent Pricing – Do they provide clear, written estimates?

🔹 Professionalism – Do they communicate well and show up on time?

🔹 Insurance & Guarantees – Are they covered in case of accidents?

A license is a starting point, not a guarantee. Do your research, ask the right questions, and don’t assume that just because someone has the paperwork, they have the skills to match.

If your handyman or contractor pauses for a moment, takes a closer look, or even says they’d like to study up on something, it’s not a sign of incompetence. In fact, it might be a sign that they’re thorough, careful, and professional.

Think about it—would you rather have someone who pauses to assess the best approach or someone who charges ahead without fully understanding the problem?

There are several reasons why a skilled professional might take a moment to think things through:

A) Your Situation Is Unique

While experienced contractors have seen a lot, no two jobs are exactly alike. Your situation may have just enough differences to require extra thought.

For example:
🔹 A common plumbing issue could be caused by unusual pipe routing in your home.
🔹 A simple electrical fix might be complicated by older or non-standard wiring.
🔹 A repair may look straightforward but hide unexpected damage underneath.

Pausing isn’t hesitation—it’s problem-solving in action.

B) They Need to Understand What’s Already Been Done

Unless the handyman built your home from the ground up, they have to figure out what previous contractors did before making changes.

They need to consider:
🔹 Materials used – Are they standard, outdated, or something custom?
🔹 Methods of construction – Was it built correctly, or are there hidden issues?
🔹 Potential hidden problems – What else might be affected by this repair?

Taking the time to assess and analyze prevents costly mistakes.

C) Researching New Solutions Is Smart, Not Weak

Some people assume that looking something up is a sign of inexperience, but it’s actually the opposite.

🔹 New techniques and materials are constantly being developed. A handyman who checks for better solutions is staying ahead of the game.
🔹 Other professionals may have tackled similar problems, and learning from them can lead to better, more efficient fixes.
🔹 Being willing to double-check and consult experts shows humility and professionalism—not weakness.

Even the best doctors, engineers, and scientists reference new information all the time. Why should handymen be any different?

The Bottom Line: Thoughtful Work Leads to Better Results

A handyman who pauses to assess, researches solutions, and takes their time to understand the situation isn’t unqualified—they’re thorough and professional.

So, next time your contractor steps back to think or checks a reference, remember:
✔ It means they care about doing the job right.
✔ It shows they value precision over guesswork.
✔ It proves they’re always learning and improving.

That’s exactly the kind of person you want working on your home. 🏡🔧