I first learned about the Giant Tortoises of the Galapagos Islands in National Geographic, when I was a teenager. I was mezmerized and hoped to see the islands and their tortoises one day. That day came fifty years later, at age 64! My "bucket list" retirement trip was an eco-tour of the islands, in the fall of 2024, with Wild Women Expeditions.
Getting there was a bit involved. It entailed four flights: Sydney, N,S, to Toronto; Toronto to Houston; Houston to Quito, Ecuador; Quito to San Christobal Island, in the Galapagos.
Our group included five women (four from across Canada and one from the US), and we had two local tour guides who lived with us during the trip.
The most stunning aspect of the Galapagos is that the islands are teeming with life, and none of the birds or animals seem at all concerned about the presence of humans. This is testament to the great job the park tour guides do, ensuring that humans respect the "10 foot rule" for Giant Tortoises and the "6 foot rule" for all other wildlife. Visitors are required to have a trained park tour guide with them anytime they are outside a city; they work freelance and are available for booking through a central registry.
Our itinerary and sample pictures from each day of the trip follow. The pictures were all taken with either a phone or pocket camera. No large lenses are required when you can walk within 6' of the wildlife!
Galápagos Islands Active Adventure
11 Days
Day 1 | Arrival
Reset and Refresh
This adventure includes a convenient one night pre-trip stay at the Wyndham Quito Airport Hotel.
As most North American-based flights arrive late in the evening, this will allow you time to reset
and refresh for the next day’s early departure to the Islands. No activities or meals are scheduled
on this day, though you are free to connect and make independent plans with your fellow Wild
Women at the hotel.
Please note: This pre-trip accommodation is considered Day 1 of the trip. Dependent on the
month you are traveling, your pre-trip night at the Wyndham Quito Airport Hotel will be: February
17, April 13, August 17, October 12 or November 23, 2024.
Accommodations
Wyndham Quito Airport Hotel
Day 2 | Into the Galápagos
Mingling in Manglecito
We meet in the domestic terminal of Quito Mariscal Sucre International Airport (UIO) for our
domestic flight to the capital of the province of Galápagos, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (SCY) on
San Cristobal Island, Galápagos. Our Wild Women guide will be waiting for us at the airport in San
Cristobal.
Upon arrival, we take a shuttle to a local restaurant for lunch and trip debrief to get into the
Galápagos groove! A boat will transfer us to Manglecito Beach, where we spend two nights
immersed in nature with the constellations above and a lapping wave soundtrack to lull us to
sleep. Before that, we have a thorough introduction to tandem kayaking in the sheltered indigo
bay by our campsite. This fun and interactive session will cover correct techniques and essential
safety procedures. Expect to paddle six nautical miles!
Included Meals
Lunch and dinner (*light breakfast options will be provided at the hotel)
Accommodations
Manglecito Beach Camping Island, San Cristobal
The Paddle
6 nautical miles (3–4 hours)
Day 3 | Kicker Rock
The Sleeping Lion
Our day will begin with a paddle along the dramatic coast towards Puerto Grande camp. Here,
we have some time to walk the shoreline of Puerto Grande’s porcelain-white sand beach before a
boat ride towards the iconic Kicker Rock (it’s also known as León Dormido for its sleeping lion
resemblance). The eroded remnants of the volcanic tuff cone is a popular perch for blue-footed
and masked boobies and frigatebirds.
We take full advantage of the biodiversity here and check out the underwater world by snorkel.
Be on high alert for hammerhead, Galápagos and white-tipped reef sharks, eagle rays, curious
green sea turtles and a colorful reel of reef fish.
In the afternoon, we return to our campsite at Manglecito. If clear skies permit, we might be able
to see the Southern Cross. The “Crux” (Cross) is composed of five shimmery stars that are rarely
visible in the Northern Hemisphere.
Included Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Accommodations
Manglecito Beach Camping Island, San Cristobal
The Paddle
6 nautical miles (3–4 hours)
Day 4 | San Cristobal Island
Pirates of the Seas
This morning we climb into our kayaks and log another six nautical miles before lunch. We
observe the antics of blue-footed boobies as they torpedo into the water in pursuit of fish and
look for sea turtles poking their heads up like periscopes.
In the afternoon, we climb Cerro de las Tijeretas (Frigatebird Hill) to take in the coastal
panoramas and watch the namesake seabirds cruise the thermals. The “pirates of the seas”
brazenly steal food from distracted boobies. The frigatebirds’ deeply forked tails, hooked beaks
and fleshy crimson red balloon sacs give them a foreboding, otherworldly appearance.
The hiking trail loops us back to the horseshoe-shaped Punta Carola beach. A huge colony of sea
lions and marine iguanas are found here.
We pause to take in another gorgeous Galápagos sunset as the equatorial sky fades to black
behind the candy red-and-white lighthouse of Punta Carola.
Included Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Accommodations
Blue Marlin Hotel Island, San Cristobal
The Paddle
6 nautical miles (3–4 hours)
Day 5 | Highlands of Santa Cruz
Taking Things Slow
We board a motorboat to the “big city” of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. Here, we visit the
highlands of Santa Cruz to get up close and personal with the Galápagos giant tortoise.
Wild tortoises can be seen along the roadway too—they sometimes create traffic jams with their
slo-mo crossings. Have your camera at the ready to snap a pic of the tortoise crossing caution
signs!
At the sanctuary, we have an intimate encounter with the tortoises, especially if they’re having a
“spa day.” They can be found submerged in muddy ponds to help combat skin parasites and
regulate their body temperature on blistering hot days.
We also explore the incredible volcanic origins of the island on a short walk through a lava tunnel.
In recent years the tunnel has been home to a few barn owls who like to purr in the inky darkness
for visitors.
Included Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Accommodations
Ikala or similar, Santa Cruz Island
Travel
Motorboat (2–3 hours), van shuttle
Day 6 | Tortuga Bay Beach
Lounge Lizards
After breakfast, we have a short ride to Tortuga Bay Beach on Santa Cruz Island. On this
shoreline, we are in the company of sunning iguanas and possibly, flamingoes. The landscape
here is a startling contrast of dunes, cacti, salt bushes, Palo Santo trees, salt flats and tangles of
mangroves full of Darwin’s finches.
We have time to take five, swim or wade along Tortuga Bay’s precious stretch of beach. Be on the
lookout for reef sharks, skittling Sally Lightfoot crabs, brown pelicans and marine iguanas. From
here, it’s a two to three hour boat ride (depending on conditions) to Puerto Villamil on Isabela
Island.
At our 4-star beachside hotel we have an afternoon of pure leisure. The hotel’s location is close
to several shops and bars in the small port’s village—provided we can pull ourselves away from
the loungers and endless sea views from the hotel’s deck.
Included Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Accommodations
IsaMar Hotel, Isabela Island
Travel
Van shuttle, motorboat (2–3 hours)
Day 7 | Sierra Negra
Lessons in Lava
We drive to the highlands of Isabela and see the shift from prickly pear and endemic candelabra
cacti to bright bursts of bromeliads and epiphytes (air plants). A path snakes to the rim of the
active Sierra Negra volcano at 4,888 feet (1,490 m). It’s the second largest caldera in the world,
spanning approximately 6.5 miles (10 km), and the 2018 eruption left a black duvet of volcanic
lava over the area.
On the path to Volcano Chico, we learn about fumaroles (gas and steam vents in the earth’s crust)
and odd-looking lava formations like aa (sharp, jagged basaltic lava) and the braid-like pahoehoe
lava. The volatile steam and vapor beneath our feet whispers the evolutionary story of one of the
world’s most inhospitable environments.
After the Sierra Negra walk, we can explore the area around our hotel and enjoy dinner at a
restaurant of our choosing.
Included Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Accommodations
Isamar Hotel, Isabela Island
Travel
Van shuttle (1 hour)
Day 8 | Tuneles and Finado
Snorkeling with Reef Sharks
We transfer by boat to Los Tuneles. The unusual and remarkable lava formation consists of
underwater arches and caves that were produced by the drastic change in temperature when
lava met the ocean water about one million years ago.
We navigate the labyrinth of rocks and tunnels in search of seabirds, eagle rays and whitetip reef
sharks. We can take a short walk along the shore to observe boobies resting on the rocks and
marvel at the giant opuntia and candelabra cacti. Short boat rides take us to two superb
snorkeling spots with crystal clear water.
The shallow inlet of El Finado is surrounded by lava rocks and the knotty root system of red
mangroves. We see rays, rainbow wrasse and caves where whitetip reef sharks like to rest.
An al fresco lunch will be served on board before we return to town. The remainder of the day is
free!
Included Meals
Breakfast and lunch
Accommodations
Isamar Hotel, Isabela Island
Travel
Motorboat (1 hour, one way)
Day 9 | Isabela’s Tortoises
Paddling with Penguins
Today we paddle around Isabela’s beachfront and bay in search of penguins. This endemic
species is a genuine thrill to see in the wild, whether waddling on land or swimming like
decorated Olympians beside the boat. At just 12 inches (30 cm), they are fast and accomplished
swimmers.
In the afternoon, we walk through the marshlands (known as humedales) and along the
serene talcum sand beach of Puerto Villamil back to our hotel. Tonight, we swap stories, reflect
and share laughs during our farewell dinner with our Wild Women and naturalist guide.
Included Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Accommodations
Isamar Hotel
Travel
Ask the penguins! They will determine today’s time in the kayaks.
Day 10 | Farewell
Planes, Trains and Ferries
It will be a full day of travel—boats, ferries, shuttle buses and planes! Be sure to have a second
cup of coffee to charge your batteries.
First, we have a two-hour boat ride back to Puerto Ayora to catch a 40-minute shuttle to the
Itabaca Canal. From Itabaca, we board a 10-minute public ferry to Baltra Island and then take a
shuttle to the airport. We fly back to Quito and transfer to our hotel. Dinner at the hotel is
included, and so are the catnaps on the plane!
Included Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Accommodations
San Jose Puembo Airport Hotel
Travel
Boats, ferries, shuttle buses, planes!
Day 11 | Quito Onwards
Homeward Bound
Today, we take a 20-minute shuttle from the hotel to the airport for flights back home.
Included Meals
Breakfast
This trip turned out to be beyond a "bucket list" experience. It was the trip of a lifetime! ♥️
Text, photographs and layout © Margaret A. Black, 2024, 2025