Update: Recently I received an email from a fellow who is successful in using a wobble dado blade. While all other contacts (hundreds of them) have been negative, this one shows that this style of blade can in fact meet expectations. As always, consider all options, and then choose the one that seems best for you.

I receive a slow but steady stream of emails asking about wobble-style dado blades. While the majority of the senders are relatively new to woodworking, some have more experience and seem to be looking for someone to reinforce the doubts they already have about the wobble dado. In either case, the answer remains the same - stay way from wobble dados unless they are the only alternative.

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Wobble dado blades are a low-cost compromise to the more expensive but vastly more effective stacked dado sets. The wobble dado uses a single blade, mounted on a multi-piece hub that can be adjusted to vary the angle at which that blade is to the arbor shaft. This angle regulates with width of the dado cut. Unfortunately, that wobble causes as many problems as it solves, maybe more.

Intentionally spinning a blade at an angle that grows steeper as the width of cut is increased is a sure way to cause a vibration. Combined a multi-piece hub assembly that can permit small but important radial irregularities, this arrangement can give the best saw a serious case of the shakes. These vibrations are made worse when the wobble dado is used the relatively light benchtop and entry-level tables saws.

The result is often severe chipping or tearout, especially in veneer plywood. This irregular contact with the wood, combined with "economy", uncoated blade bodies often found on wobble dados seems to generate contamination of the blade very quickly.

Frequently, wobble-style dado blades are considered because of a short arbor that will not safely handle a stacked dado blade set at its full width. That is a very real safety concern because the arbor nut must be fully seated on the shaft with at least one full thread protruding above it's surface when tightened.

My best advice is to avoid wobble dados whenever possible. There may be a saw out there that cannot use a stacked set at all, but I have not heard of it yet. In all cases I am aware of, if the saw will swing a wobble dado, it will run a stacked setup in a reduced width configuration.

Stacked dado sets generally cost more than the wobble variety but there is good reason for that. I also think that if you compare the price of a good 6" stacked dado set to the cost of a wobble type, you will find that difference is not as significant as you might suspect. For example, Freud offers a very capable 6"-diameter stacked set with a street price ranging from $19.95 to over $50.00 (5-10-2004).

Is there a way to place landing gear so that i can guarantee my plane can remain stable on the runway even at high speed in excess of 200m/s? My plane tends to wobble on the runway with the stock game so i decided to download FAR, but the problem still persists. I have done everything imaginable to try to remedy this problem. I scoured the entire web for a solution, but found no working solution or at least dont work every time. I feel tat it is either due to the symmetry placement in this game being inaccurate or certain parts where i anchor my landing gears on are not perfectly symmetrical and the physics calculation is just too sensitive about even the slightest misalignment.

To avoid wobble, wheels need to be absolutely vertical, and they shouldn't be attached to something that is likely to flex as speed builds up, as this could also affect the vertical alignment. Not sure why you would want that stability for speeds in excess of 200 m/s though, as most planes will take off and land at far slower speeds.

Try not to place your gears to wings, especially wingtips - if they wobble even slightly, your plane lose the balance. Also pay attention to your fuel balance, especially if you're using several tanks placed in parallel to each other.

I dont really need 200m/s for take off. My plane usually take off at a little over 120m/s. I am accelerating it to over 200m/s on the runway just to test the stability of those wheels since the faster you go, the more likely the plane will wobble and flip on the runway. Although I usually only need 50 m/s for most planes to wobble out of control.

After placing wheels I always use the rotate gizmo on snap with absolute orientation. That will align with the craft axis. Beyond that, you're going to get some wobble once you get close to take off speed. As lift increases you remove some strain on the gear, however you've just increased the amount of sag. So if I start encountering wobble it's time to pull back on the stick and get in the air. I see absolutely no need to be traveling that fast down the runway. You're going to have a bad time. You want to get up to get the gear tucked away and reduce drag. 200 m/s runway stability just doesn't seem to have a worthwhile purpose to me, and is inducing counter productive engineering challenges. Such as not producing lift, which is not what you want with a plane. And at the extreme, producing down force, which I'm sure would cause more gear issues.

Any tips from vets on how to stop the wobble effect you get in larger ships? I can't really turn SAS or RCS on because it just makes it worse and can even break apart the vessel. While thrusting, will turning SAS on or make the wobble worse? It's affecting the efficiency of my burns...

If you're experiencing oscillation in vacuum (outside an atmosphere) try switching to warp mode and back before you start the burn - this will reset the parts to their default positions and eliminate any wobble.

1) Build your stack symmetrically to improve the balance of the design, reducing or removing the need for SAS/RCS in the early flight where the atmosphere is thicker and this wobble is more easily introduced.

I just made an observation that might be helpful regarding wobble, though the particular case that I observed was not a large ship. When I set the SAS to maintain orientation to one of the direction indicators, such as prograde, this induced a wobble. However, when I set it to "Stability Assist" the wobble immediately went away. With stability assist the ship is simply holding its current attitude. However, when you set it to one of the direction indicators, the ship is constantly making minute corrections as it orbits the planet, which produces the wobble. It appears the SAS needs a bigger deadband to eliminate the rapid oscillations. My advise would be to use the directions for initial alignment and then switch to stability assist.

They also add very little extra processing power (theyre physicsless more or less), so adding 20 struts to a craft atop the normal part count adds little if ANY lag. My view is that when in doubt (and you arent hard limited by the VAB/SPH's level in career), add extra struts, makes it strurdier, less likely to wobble, and less likely to overstress when you come in a tad too fast when docking another craft.

I currently have a Summarit 35/2.4 and enjoy the lens but I've been thinking about trying something different. Call it GAS, curiosity, whatever The Zeiss Biogon 35mm/2.8 has piqued my interest but the 'dreaded wobble' concerns me. Has Zeiss ever addressed this issue, or is that still a problem with the latest production ZM lenses?

You do realize that both the ZM and CV lenses are made in the same factory? I have a number of Zeiss ZM lenses and have never had the "wobble" issue with them. But then again, i don't abuse my lenses either. I also have several CV lenses. The only one with issues is the 75/2.5 with an aperture ring that is very lose and wobbly.

I owned a 35 Biogon for a while and it's a fine lens, it did develop a bit of a wobble before I sold it. Even with the wobble, there was a lot to like about the lens. The little focusing nub was easy to use, one third stops and that great Zeiss rendering but it was the 43mm filter size that was my deciding factor to sell it.

The ZM wobble most likely comes from the retaining ring that holds in the optical block, which can loosen slightly which results in the front portion of the lens to develop a bit of play. This is a 30 second fix with a lens spanner. Leica has this issue too with some lenses, like the Elmarit 28mm ASPH.

Zeiss have reduced the occurrence of this by using strong threadlock at one end of the threads and very tacky grease on the other. If the lens gets repaired and the threadlock is broken, the grease helps to provide a lot of resistance to rotation to prevent vibration to loosen the ring even more.

Then thirdly, depending on how well Cosina laps their helicoids, it can occur that some helicoids are a little too loose. This makes focusing very very smooth and low resistance, but it relies on more grease to keep the helicoid centred with even resistance. My Color-Skopar 21mm f/3.5 has this issue with its outer helicoid. The optical block wobbles when focusing with the camera is in a vertical orientation. It took me several attempts to figure out it was due to a lack of grease on the outer helicoid threads. Now that I've packed it with a little more grease, there is no wobble of focus backlash.

I expected almost no incidences of speed wobble since the onset of today's monocoque carbon frames. Instead 3 in 10 of you report speed wobble on these newer bikes.

About 1 in 5 say today's new, stiffer bikes have cured your wobbles. I expected that number to be much higher. I thought I'd hear, "Whew, since I got my new carbon road bike I can bomb down hills and the bike is rock solid." Instead it seems like we still have a speed wobble problem. 0852c4b9a8

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