Without further ado, from all that VERY LONG list of rules, here are patterns that I have found that I think fit the shape/line/detail rules. Obviously the fabric/color/print rules will be addressed by the fabrics chosen. All pictures are going to be pulled from the pattern websites, and I will link to the page in the text below. Also, unless otherwise specified, these are all patterns I currently own but have not sewn yet.

Skirts: Skirts should be soft, smooth, and gently flowing. A straight skirt should be lightweight and slightly tapered at the hemline to avoid stiffness. Flared skirts are best, with an uneven hemline that softly flows. Waist detail should be soft and subdued with slight gathers or soft pleats that are stitched down through the hip. Bias-cut pieces that are added to the bottom of the skirt are also possible. Hemlines on a straight skirt should be short-never longer than one inch below the knee. Uneven hemlines will always be longer, gracefully grazing the mid-calf area. Slits should be small and elegant, suggested rather than overstated. AVOID: Long, straight skirts. Sharply tailored skirts. Wide, unconstructed styles. Voluminous circles. Extra flouncy skirts-except for smoothly flared styles. Extremely tight or clingy skirts. excess detail that is overdone (draping, shirring, full gathers, ultradeep folds, etc.)

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Pants: Pants should be softly tailored styles in lightweight fabric. Soft pleats, slight gathers, and a slightly tapered leg are nice details. Hemline should be just below the top of the ankle so as to show a touch of foot or shoe. AVOID: Man-tailored styles with sharp edges. Wide, unconstructed or baggy styles. Overly fussy pants with excess trim or detail.

This Gertie B6285, Cashmerette Dartmouth top, Itch to Stitch Brasov wrap top, and the Style Arc Kendall top, the Burdastyle.com Draped Jersey Shirt 09/2018 #121A, all have elements of the wrapped style, that offer soft edges, draping necklines, and gathers.

There a few tops patterns I have that do not neatly lump into the above categories, but still fit the Soft Classic rules. The Burdastyle.com V-Neck Blouse (Plus Size) 07/2016 #129A has beautiful pleating and a wide neckline. The Burdastyle.com Kaftan Style Blouse 06/2018 #112 has the same undefined waist problem, but if tucked, the pleating and gathers will create a beautiful drape. I do think the fabric choice for the sample here is excessively busy, though. The Cashmerette Harrison shirt has beautiful Classic style tailoring, with no true softness, but I think it can be added to a much softer skirt, or even underneath a softer sweater, to help create a complete outfit.

Both these Burdastyle.com patterns are problematic for the Soft Classic group, with Pullover 11/2012 #128 being more so. I think in the right fabric, with the right outfit, it might work. It has tapered to the wrist sleeves and an open neckline, but is boxy around the waist and the banded hem might cut awkwardly across more curvy hips. Layered Long Sleeve Shirt 01/2016 #103A is much more gathered and draping, but the front of the sweater is plain and flat, while the back has the detailing.

The woven selection of this style is just as large, with variety in necklines and sleeve options, but similarity in either a gathered or pleated skirt creating a slight flare. The issue wovens could have, though, is with too stiff a fabric creating a too elaborate flare. There is Burdastyle.com Tank Dress with Gathered Skirt 02/2011 #104, Cashmerette Upton, Vogue 1223, Burdastyle.com Tunic Dress (Plus Size) 08/2016 #132B, Feminine Dress 07/2016 #111A, Butterick 5750, Peppermint Magazine Summer Sundress, Vogue V9100. The Burdastyle.com Maxi Dress (Plus Size) 06/2016 #133 fits into this category, though it is a maxi style in length. I wanted to point out the harsher lines of the back up against the softness of the draping skirt. I think it is a fantastic mix of the Classic with a hint of Romantic softness.

The Colette Rue dress is one that I would very much like to lump into the woven fit and flare category, but when it came out, there were a bunch of problems with the bodice fit, and the pattern ended up having some redrafting happen. I received the new pieces free, but I was already going to have to figure out a bust adjustment to the area around the piping, but now also figuring out where to put new pieces in had put me off. However, this dress is on my #makenine2019, so I am committing to tackle it! I hope it works out, because the tailoring around the waist and ribcage is beautiful, and then with the pleats from the waist, it is a great Soft Classic shape, especially in a softer fabric.

I haven't really had a thought out, wardrobe architectured plan for my summer sewing; it's been pretty improvisational around here these days. Flying by the seat of your pants doesn't generally yield consistent, unified results, but I've surprised myself by making a fairly cohesive summer capsule wardrobe this summer, something made clear when I started packing for a friends wedding this weekend and everything just worked together.

Back to the dress. I zipped this up in an evening using the same linen I used for my Lonsdale. I made a size 8, grading to a little larger than a 10 at the hip. All the seams are finished using my beloved Juki (which I just reviewed here), and I skipped the facing in favour of a bias bound neckline using self fabric. I was especially pleased with the fit through the shoulder - I often have issues with gaping since I'm a little narrow up there, but this was perfect from minute one. A super easy, satisfying make, well suited to my jazzy improv sewing style this summer. I've worn and washed it enough that's it already starting to get that slightly faded, well loved patina that linen gets over time. Also? Soft as hell.

Caroline Fairbanks-Critchfield is an author and publisher who is passionate about the world of sewing and quilting. You can find her work in books, sewing patterns, magazines, and articles all over the web. She founded and publishes her ideas on the popular sewing website SewCanShe.com.

This particular soft book was made with coordinating pieces from an older line of fabrics by Sarah Watts. While stitching it up, I thought it would make a great scrap busting tutorial so I decided to document the process and write the instructions here for you.

As mentioned above, the fabrics used in my soft book came from a coordinating line but I think this would be a fun opportunity to use up any scraps in your stash. I love the idea of a book with different textures using corduroy, denim, linen, minky, etc. You can also add embroidery, or make a book with different animal print fabrics. Truly, the possibilities are endless.

In the middle of my living room sits a secret. A place where I stash lots of scrap fabric and clothes with holes. See, instead of throwing all this fabric into landfill, I made a Closet Core Pouf. Here is my review of this pouf pattern free from Closet Core Patterns. Looking for a free sewing pattern to sew soft furnishings? Here is why I think using this free pouf pattern is a game changer!

It is a free sewing pattern which you can access by signing up to the Closet Core newsletter. And whilst it was the perfect pattern for me to use this upholstery fabric, it is also the perfect way to use up some of the pieces, scraps and little remnants of old projects.

The Closet Pouf pattern sewing went together really well. And the best part of it is that my DIY Ottoman pouffe is stuffed with all sorts of remnants. You could use standard pouf filling material or pouffe stuffing, but I prefer to use all my old clothes and scraps. I even put the inner stuffing from some old pillows in there. As I love using my fabric scraps, every last piece, this is an excellent idea!

The cut edges of soft shell do not fray, so can be left unfinished if desired, but more commonly the edges are bound with FOE (Foldover elastic) or stretch binding to make a more comfortable, neat edges, especially around neckline and sleeve openings were a raw edge might irritate the skin.

Thanks for this post. I have some soft shell fabric from Imagine Gnats waiting to be made into a nordic ski jacket using McCalls 7026, and these tips give me more confidence for diving into the project!

Hi, I made a shell jacket recently but have a problem with the zip which has gone kind of wavey. Is there a way to use something to stabilize the fabric while sewing to stop this because I really want to make a second jacket but do not want another wavey zipper.

Hi lovelies,

There are a lot of new products on the market now to help with your bag making, most noticeably foam stabilisers.

Foam stabilisers are great because they give your handmade bags body, stability and an overall professional finish. (I use stabilisers for my Saddlebag, Nappy bag and Bookbag Backpack patterns, for example). But what's the difference and which should you choose?

I've made a comparison of the top three to try and help you. I'll be comparing By Annie's Soft & Stable, Headliner Scrim and Bosal In-R-Form.

I have not received any compensation or reward for these, however I did receive the fabric from Sara Lawson's new Fantasia Fabric line for Art Gallery Fabrics and chose to use them for this.

First up, what are they?

Soft & Stable is a craft foam specially developed for using in bags and craft projects. Headliner is the fabric used on the interior ceilings of cars and Bosal In-R-Form is a fusible foam; I've chosen the single sided fusible one, although it is available in double sided.

The cost

I've worked out the price based on product and shipping & handling. I've attached links to my suppliers on each.

Soft & Stable - 17.20 for 18" x 58"

Headliner - 7.98 for 39" x 55" (so nearly double the size)

Bosal - 11.75 for 18" x 58"

Packaging & Instructions

Soft & Stable comes folded in a plastic bag with a thick paper insert, there are no instructions for use.

Headliner fabric comes per meter and as such is just folded or rolled with no packaging and no instructions for use.

Bosal comes in a plastic bag with a cover sheet and the following instructions.

What does it look like?

Soft & Stable is a 4mm foam with knitted covering on both sides. There's no visible grainline as the knitted fabric seems to be distorted.

 Headliner comes either as grey interior fabric backed with 3mm foam, or as pictured below (and cheaper!) the interior fabric is backed with 2mm foam and then a soft fleecy feeling backing. 

 Bosal Single sided In-R-Form is a 4mm foam with the soft fleecy fabric on one side, and the glue side on the other. It is not sticky until heated.

It is worth noting that you should not press directly on the Bosal, wheras the Soft & Stable and Headliner could take a bit of swift ironing if using a medium/cool iron, although you probably shouldn't iron them either.

Observations

The Bosal foam smelt, there's no two ways about it. It smelt of a horrible chemical burnt plastic smell which got worse as I pressed it. I tried to avoid smelling the steam from pressing. Headliner had a faint 'new car' plastic-y smell, and Soft & Stable had a slight plastic smell to it.

There was no scent to the finished baskets.

How easy are they to apply?

The Bosal was incredibly easy to apply. I cut it 1/2" smaller than the outer fabric (that was the seam allowance for the pattern) and then fused from the right side of the fabric with the Bosal underneath.

The Soft & Stable and headliner both required basting so I cut them to the pattern size, basted with a 1/2" seam allowance then trimmed the excess from the seam allowance. I then removed the basting stitches before I did the final topstitching. It was a potch.

How stable are they then?

The sharpest shape to the basket was produced by Bosal In-R-Form. It had nice sharp corners and the sides stood up straight.

The next sharpest was the headliner fabric surprisingly! It too had nice sharp corners and the sides stood up, but lesser than the Bosal.

Finally the Soft & Stable had much less sharp corners and the sides sagged outwards slightly.

Soft & Stable in pink, Bosal in cream mushrooms, Headliner in soft green flowers at the frontHow do they look?

I took photos before and after a final press because they were really quite different and I was disappointed. I used Art Gallery cottons which are notoriously soft and luxuriant feeling, but it meant they really needed the extra stability to make this basket.

First up is the Bosal. It creased incredibly badly when turning the top under and then pulling it through the machine. It seemed as though whenever it was pressed, the glue melted again and the fabric could shift.

Before a final pressEven after a final press some creases remained.

After pressingNext up is the Headliner. This didn't crease as badly when turning through and unlike the others, didn't fold along the quilted stitch lines. 

Before a final press It had a good finish to it and I was generally pleased with it.

After pressing Finally the Soft & Stable. It didn't crease too badly, but of course a final press did help.

I did the squish test too. I pushed down the side of one basket until it held in place and waited to see which would spring back into shape. All three were spring-y and didn't want to stay squished, but the Bosal sprung back far more quickly wheras the Headliner and Soft & Stable were quite happy to stay squished.

Top left - Bosal, Top right - Soft & Stable, Front - Headliner

The main cons for Soft & Stable were that it's not fusible and it's jolly pricey.

For the headliner, the only down side I could find was that it's not fusible, I was generally very happy with it, (Especially the price!).

Finally for the Bosal I was pleased it was fusible, it was much easier to work with because of that, but the creases just didn't produce a great result and I am disappointed that such pretty fabric should be graced with such creases!

Left to right - Bosal single sided In-R-Form, Headliner scrim, By Annie's Soft & StableI chose to use these beautiful fabrics sent to me by my good friend Sara from Sew Sweetness. They're from her newest fabric line Fantasia. I couldn't decide between them so I mixed and matched and chose the unicorns for the interior dividers.

I used the divided basket pattern from Noodlehead which I purchased a couple of months ago, but used upholstery webbing for the handles with ribbons sewn to the middles.

I can't tell you which stabiliser to go for, but hopefully my observations will help you to decide. If in doubt, apply a swatch to your outer fabric to see if you like the handle of it first.

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