More funding is needed to support small island developing States (SIDS) on the frontlines of climate change, UN Secretary-General Antnio Guterres said on Saturday in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.

Now, in The Accidental Guerrilla, Kilcullen provides a remarkably fresh perspective on the War on Terror. Kilcullen takes us "on the ground" to uncover the face of modern warfare, illuminating both the big global war (the "War on Terrorism") and its relation to the associated "small wars" across the globe: Iraq, Afghanistan, the Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand, Chechnya, Pakistan and North Africa. Kilcullen sees today's conflicts as a complex pairing of contrasting trends: local social networks and worldwide movements; traditional and postmodern culture; local insurgencies seeking autonomy and a broader pan-Islamic campaign. He warns that America's actions in the war on terrorism have tended to conflate these trends, blurring the distinction between local and global struggles and thus enormously complicating our challenges. Indeed, the US had done a poor job of applying different tactics to these very different situations, continually misidentifying insurgents with limited aims and legitimate grievances (whom he calls "accidental guerrillas") as part of a coordinated worldwide terror network. We must learn how to disentangle these strands, develop strategies that deal with global threats, avoid local conflicts where possible, and win them where necessary.

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This is also a great modification for a 9-11wt musky rod allowing you to anchor the extended fighting but into your forearm for increased casting power when throwing those bulky doubles, as well as giving you more leverage when you figure-8 your fly at the boat.

I would not recommend this on a high-end fly rod. Especially if you are planning on sending in your rod for any warranty repair. There is obviously a small amount of risk when modifying your fly rod, Changing the leverage point on a high modulus fly rod can cause the bending point under load to shift causing your rod to break. Modify at your own risk.

You have a couple of options for materials when making your fighting butt. For this project I cut off the end of an old broken shore rod, but you can also glue individual cork rings and an end cap together to get the same result.

This is the scariest part of the process. Cutting the cork fighting butt off of your rod. If your rod already has a small fighting butt then the rod blank will extend past the reel seat. You can either cut the blank off flush, but I would recommend simply cutting the old cork away from the blank.

In order to at structure and rigitity to the handle you will need to extend the current blank so it extends into your longer fighting butt. Use a section of an old rod blank or buy a cheap or broken blank at a local rod building supplier. You will want a section that is small enough to fit inside the rod blank, but as large as possible to maintain some some rigidity.

Mix up another batch of two-part epoxy and coat the new rod blank and painters tape. Slide your new fighting butt onto your rod and apply firm pressure. Epoxy will get pushed out from Between the fighting butt and your reel seat. Make sure you wipe any epoxy off the threads and fighting butt. As an extra precaution you can put painters tape over your reel seat and fighting butt.

Combat robots come in many sizes from 75grams to 340lbs each one of them has their pros and cons. The first thing to do when thinking about building is to find the competition which you want to compete and see what weight classes are going to be there, because what is the point of building a bot you can never fight. Listing of robotic competitions are available on and 

Large robots: 60lbs + 

There is nothing like the thrill of seeing two large machines hitting each other with the force of a small car wreck. When most people think of combat robots it is these larger machines which first cross your mind. If you are fortunate to live near one of the large robotic events these machines can be fun builds, but at the same time the level of engineering required can be quite difficult. These large machines can also cost quite a bit of money. When you commit to building a machine this size you are committing at least $1000, and in many cases much more. I would estimate that your average heavy weight (220lbs) would cost a builder $4000-$5000 to build a competitive machine, and it is not uncommon to see builders spend upwards of $15,000+ on their machines over the course of a few years. In the days when combat robotics was televised there were many sponsorship opportunities which would subsidize the cost, unfortunately now as a builder you will be on your own. 

On the good side of larger machines is that many times you can find surplus parts online which can reduce the cost of the machine. Using off the shelf components such as items from or can help make things easier. There are more of these components available for larger machines. Those Larger machines also have the added ability for service, fixing a machine is much easier the larger it is. Building a large robot can be both fun and enjoyable and you wont regret being able to say "I have a 120 lb battlebot in my garage"

Small Robot:

Building a small robot can be a lot of fun but also a good challenge, with a restricted weight limit it makes every part on the machine to be critically thought about and designed. Most people are drawn to these smaller machines because of the frequency of competitions for them as well as the ability to transport them easily. While it is the common misconception that small robots are cheap they can be just as expensive as their larger counterparts. Alot of times the small electronics required for these can cost quite a bit as compared to larger components. 

weight classes (list from wikipedia): 

Every bot is made up of a combination of both manufactured and purchased components. Choosing the right components is crucial for a successful robot. In this step I will step through some of the major components for small to medium robots and how you choose which is right for your bot.

Motors: The driving force behind any size robot you build. They make your robot move and in many cases power your weapons. The motors used in combat robots are DC or Direct current motors, designed for anywhere between 3 and 72 volts. Just like every other component you need to make decisions to choose the right one. The four traits to consider in on each motor is torque/speed, voltage, size, and weight. Motor torque is typically rated in oz-in or in-lbs at the "stall" area. Since dc motors produce their maximum torque with minimal RPM stall torque is only a reference point. I only use the torque as a baseline for comparison for different motors and try to get the most torque I can within my other constraints. Size and weight go hand and hand since the larger form factor your robot is the more it will weigh. When defining the size of your bot try to make it as small as possible without sacrificing functionality. Voltage is one of those things that is my last priority, most motors are 12 volts but for those that aren't you just need to make sure that your electronics all match the voltage of your motors.

Common motors used for 12-30lb robots:

Drill motors - cheap drills from discount tool store harbor freight are stripped from their housings and mounted for the drives. Many people also use the battery packs from these drills as well. While the cheap drills are common many people spend the extra dollars for high quality ones such as ones made by DeWALT.

Banebots - banebots is a company founded a few years ago for the sole purpose of providing parts for combat. They have a large range of motors and transmissions which are "ready to run" out of the box. For the convenience of not having to modify drills to get the motors I chose these for my robot, the old 36mm series (which I used) broke easily, but I have had good results with the new 42mm ones. 

Other motors: A wide assortment of motors exists you can check out many of them at the robot marketplace. 

Wheels - The wheels on the robot go round and round.... The saying don't reinvent the wheel comes to mind for this section as there are as many different styles of wheels as there are builders in this sport. The main question you need to ask yourself is if you want a live axle or dead axle system. 

In live axle system the wheel is hard mounted to the axle similar to a wheel in a car. The challenge with this system is that now you will need to have bearings on the shaft and find a way to couple the wheel to the axle.

In a dead axle setup the wheel freely spins on a shaft and is usually driven by a sprocket or belt attached directly to the wheel. While this system may seem easier it still has it's own challenges like the need for a power transmission method (chain or belt) and in the small spaces for this size robot direct drive systems work better.

The most common wheel used for most all combat robots is made by the colson company and is a soft urethane wheel which performs well on the many different arena surfaces. The major problem with these wheels is that they don't have a way to drive them for live axle applications. For my robot I made custom hubs on a lathe but you can buy pre-made colsons' with hubs from places like Banebots

Banebots recently came out with some of their own wheels similar to colsons' but I have not seen or tested them. 

Building Materials - Small robots use a variety of materials from composites like carbon fiber sheets and aluminum. Just like any other component on your machine each material will have advantages and disadvantages. These are a few of the ones used commonly.

Aluminum: is a light weight common metal which can be easily formed and machined. It is used for the chassis of most machines for those reasons. Aluminum comes in many different alloys but the most popular ones are 6061-T6 which is heat treated and suited for machining and welding. This alloy can be soft and not great for impact resistance so use it for components which arn't going to see direct contact. 7075 is the other major alloy and is much tougher of a material which makes it harder to form and weld but has better resistance to hits. 

UHMW - is a durable plastic commonly used for internal components as mounts. It has a bit of give to it, but it holds up well under competition. It is also very easy to form with even hand tools.

Polycarbonate - or lexan as it is commonly known is a clear durable plastic which is for the most part impact resistant and light weight. pound for pound it compares to aluminum but it bends and bounces back instead of deforming like metal will. Under extreme impacts it can crack and break away so use it for top panels but not armor.

Titanium - a great material for armor but it is very cost prohibitive, although many builders still use this for high end machines. 

For my robot I used both 6061 and 7075 aluminum. Mainly 6061 for my supports and chassis and 7057 for my outer frame supports. I used a live axle setup with banebot 12:1 transmissions powering 3" x 7/8 coloson wheels with a custom made hub. 0852c4b9a8

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