So I'm a fairly new player in the game Dungeons & Dragons (D&D). I'm known about the game/played a very loose version of the game a little over a year ago and I started getting serious about ten-eleven months ago. Currently, I am still learning about the game, its concepts, and how to play. Something I would love to try is DMing. But there are a few problems with that:

So I'm asking you guys! What would be the most important to get for an inspiring world builder and D&D player? The Dungeon Master's Guide, the Player Handbook, or the Monster Manual? I currently have some beginner level stuff that just teaches you the basics, but what if I want to go deeper?


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I've never played any tabletop RPG and am about to start a 5th edition campaign. I almost joined another campaign a good while back; the DM was pretty adamant that every player have their own handbook. That campaign never got running, so I'm not really sure how important it really is.

It is generally helpful for players to have a Player's Handbook readily available, especially for spellcasters who need to reference spell descriptions every now and then. Aside from that, the most help that it will do is speed up character generation and leveling-up, which is good at the table because it allows for more game-time in the session. I find that in a party of 4 players and 1 DM, having two Player's Handbooks available is generally acceptable for our group, though more would be spectacular. In your case, your table should have 3-4, possibly one of which would be for the DM to reference behind the screen.

There's no requirement in any role-playing game that I've played that every player need have there own copy of the rulebook. While it is indeed convenient to have multiple copies of books in a gaming group it is by no means a necessity.

At the table when more than one person would like to look something up, the worst inconvenience would be that people will have to wait their turn to take a look (if they're bored while waiting, they can always amuse themselves by-- oh, I don't know-- playing the game?). It can be very helpful for players to have their own books between games so they don't have to rely on borrowing the book or waiting until the next session. The best time to have multiple books would be during character creation, since everyone will be looking up rules and statistics all the time to make their characters, however during the course of the campaign I doubt there is likely to be nearly so much of a need again.

If you're willing to do a little more work writing out commonly needed info like spell descriptions (just for the spells your players' characters use), then you're probably fine with one for the DM and one for the players. It's pretty rare that the players need to reference more than one thing at the same time. The more you play, the less you'll use the PHB, honestly. After you get familiar with the system, the only times you use the book are for character generation/advancement and looking up equipment or spells. Most of the rules become pretty second nature a few sessions into a campaign, and the spells your players use most will become familiar to your group pretty quickly too. It's silly to invest that much into books that will only make the first few games only slightly easier.

The biggest time players all need the book at once is character creation. Once you get past that point, it's usually not too bad to share. If your players are good at making characters ahead of time, or if you have players who are system monkeys and can whip together a character in about 5-10 minutes, then you can usually get to where you only need 1 or 2 players to take their time with the book.

If you have players who are learning basic rules (or, never seem to absorb them), it can be helpful to write a "quicksheet" - a 2 page reference sheet (front and back) that covers the basics that the group can pass around druing play. This helps avoid looking to the rulebook for really basic or common issues. ("How does Advantage work?" "What is the penalty for getting up from Prone?" "How does Death Saves work?" etc.)

For D&D specifically, the next biggest cause of rulebook need is spells. If you have more than one spellcaster or magic-type character, it might be helpful to have those players have their own copies or pay to photocopy the pages with the spells they need.

The only time I've seen 1:1 be actually beneficial is for online games, since you can't just pass the core book over to another player to look up various things. While yes, this can lead to the same distractions as during gameplay at a physical tabletop, the potential distraction is mitigated by the number of other distractions the have at hand and is far outweighed by all players having access to the core rules, charts, references, etc.

I think the rule "everyone has a handbook" is most helpful in games where players are expected to be progressing during "off-time." If you need to scour the PHB during the week to find the one item you need to buy to beat the Beholder guarding the citadel, you'll need your own book.

There is a sense of dedication that is to be had by forcing everyone to pony up precious dollars. However, I find this doesn't work in the long run: you want players that want to adventure in a world, not players trying to make the best of their $20

A game store offering public/official play may require players to have a PHB to play characters that are not covered by the basic rules. This is to promote the store and the game that people are playing. If the game store doesn't require it for official adventure league play, or you are playing outside of a store, then it shouldn't be necessary. My recommendation is 2-3 books for a group of up to 6-7 players.

SPIRIT OF THE GAME

Golf is played, for the most part, without supervision of a referee or tournament official. The game relies on the integrity of the individual to show consideration for other players and to abide by the Rules. All players should conduct themselves in a disciplined manner, demonstrating courtesy and sportsmanship at all times, irrespective of how competitive they may be. This is the spirit of the game of golf.

OFFICIAL TIME

The clock at the tee (1st or 10th) where a player begins his/her round is the official time of starting. Starters will not page players in advance of their starting time. Players should report to the tee at least one starting interval prior to their tee time.

LATE ENTRIES

Late entries will be accepted after the closing date based on availability and until pairings are published on the NCGA website. All late entries, including exempt players, will be subjected to pay an additional $20 per player of the applicable entry fee.

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SITE TRANSFERS

Players may request to transfer from one site to another based on availability at any time prior to the pairings being posted for either of the sites involved. Once pairings are published, transfers will only be permitted for exceptional circumstances (for example: a player qualifies for a USGA championship that conflicts with the qualifying date).

WITHDRAWALS

To withdraw for any reason players MUST notify the NCGA Operations Department at (831) 625-4653. Failure to notify the NCGA will cause the player to be listed as a NO SHOW resulting in a ONE-YEAR SUSPENSION FROM ALL NCGA EVENTS FOR THE CALENDAR YEAR FOLLOWING THE INFRACTION. A player who only contacts the course and NOT the NCGA will be subject to the suspension.

NO SHOWS

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PLAYERS and CADDIES must be properly attired both on the golf course and on the premises of the club. Blue jeans, designer jeans, T-shirts and tank tops are prohibited. Golf shirts must be worn and shorts must be no shorter than mid-thigh (no jean shorts). This dress code will be used at all NCGA tournaments in conjunction with any additional dress code restrictions of the particular golf course involved. A player or caddie violating this dress code will not be permitted to start the competition. A violation of this dress code by either a player or a caddie during the stipulated round must be rectified without undue delay or the player will not be allowed to continue play or the caddie will not be allowed to perform the acts of a caddie.

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