So there's a couple other instructables already about converting a chest freezer to a kegerator (aka keezer), but most of them use the expensive plug and play temperature controllers. If you're willing to get your hands a little dirty, cheap controllers to hardwire in can be found on eBay for ~$20. Not only do you get a nice digital readout with the current temperature and the ability to set to specific temperatures, you also have the option of adding a heat source as well to turn the freezer into a temperature controlled fermenter.


Temperature controller:

I purchased mine for $20 (Link removed due to seller jacking price up $100). eBay links don't last forever, but you can search for "digital temperature controller 110V." Many of them are designed to run on 220V, so make sure you get the proper voltage controller (110V in the US). This particular one allows for many customized settings include compressor delay, which is important as rapid on/off cycling can kill the compressor.


Tools needed:

Drill

Dremel/rotary tool or jigsaw

Wire cutters

Multimeter (recommended)


Misc parts:

Wire nut

Electrical tape

Extra power cord

Foreword: You need to be very careful about cutting through the walls of the freezer as most of the walls contain the cooling element. If you puncture a cooling element, all the coolant will leak out and you'll be left with a fancy box. In my freezer, the was an area in the bottom right side that contained the compressor, enough room to install the controller, and a thin wall obviously devoid of any cooling parts.


Measure the size hole you need to cut and trace it out on the wall. Double check you're not drilling through the thick part. Drill a hole in each corner and cut between them with either a dremel tool or jigsaw. If using a jigsaw, make sure the blade won't poke through far enough to hit and of the compressor lines. Make sure the controller will fit in the hole you cut.



An alternative to mounting the controller on the freeser is to use a plastic junction box and put the controller in the middle of the existing power cord. A blank faceplate provides a suitable surface to mount the controller. The finished results may not be as neat, but it gets the job done.





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The first thing is to cut the plug end from the existing cable (unless you're using the junction box, then cut somewhere in between). It's important to note which line is the hot and which is the neutral. The ground is usually smaller and pretty easy to identify. After cutting the cable, the wiring schematic shows the hot going to the thermostat which is in the panel I pulled out. I looked for the wire coming in from the power supply and after disconnecting it from thermostat, tested for continuity with the multimeter. Since the end connected to the thermostat is the hot, you should get no resistance on the other end of that same wire. Mark it with electrical tape or black marker.


The way the temperature controller work is by cutting on and off the flow from the hot to either a heating or cooling element. Both circuits are normally open. When the temperature gets too hot, it will close the circuit and allow electricity to flow to the cooling element (the freezer). If I was using the freezer as a fermenter I might also have a heating element like a small ceramic heater or dehydrator connected that would be turned on when the temperature dropped too much.


To wire it up, the incoming (black cord in my case) hot and neutral get connected to the appropriate posts. Here the hot went to post 5 and the neutral to post 6, as shown on the diagram. The hot also needs to be connected to the post to switching portion before reaching the heating/cooling elements. Because post 1 and 5 both need to be connected to the incoming hot, you need to either pigtail a split in or do what I did an jumper a second short wire between the two. Next you need to connect the outgoing post shown going to the cooling element to the line that goes to the freezer (white cord here). Although the diagram shown this to be post 2, I found this to be a misprint and that post 3 actually is for the cooling element. Initially the freezer came on when the temperature was too low, which could have had disastrous implications if I didn't catch the mistake. Post 7 and 8 get connected to the included temperature probe, it doesn't matter which leg connects to which post. The neutral going to the freezer should get attached to post 6 along with the neutral coming from the outlet. The grounds don't actually connect to the controller and should be joined directly to each other.


Before sealing everything up, plug in the freezer to make sure it is all working as intended. To set the temperature, press set, use the up/down arrows to select the temp, then press reset. Test both when the probe it too hot or too cold. You can hold it against an ice cube if you need to cool it down.

Run the probe up the back of the freezer and snake it under the lid. Duct taping it to the freezer is a good way to keep the cables managed. Fit the controller through the hole and use the orange clips to hold it against the wall. They can be a little tricky to get on, but keep at it. My controller operates in Celsius, so fridge temp is 4 degrees. If yours is in Fahrenheit you probably want to set it to 39 or so. This particular freezer was tall enough to kit kegs and carboys right off the bat, but I'll be installing a wooden collar and faucets as detailed in other instructables soon. In the mean time a picnic tap will get the job done. Good luck and happy brewing!

I was at Costco yesterday and saw they have a small chest freezer that can be switched on to refrigerator mode. I'm looking for something to convert into a cheese cave/curing chamber. Would this be a feasable subject? Most conversions seem to be upright fridges.

This code has no bearing on the running of the engine, just an emissions check to see if the catalytic converter is functioning properly. The code is set when the secondary O2 sensor (after the cat) is reading similarly to the primary O2 sensor (in front of the cat). When this happens, the ECM is assuming the cat is not functioning properly, and will set the code P0420.

There are some pictures with this -autoparts.com/motorage/Certified+Technicians/Catalytic-converters-not-always-the-problem-with-c/ArticleStandard/Article/detail/595854 article that may clarify things a bit.

It looks like the problem is the catalytic converter because you have no O2 sensor codes. Long term fuel injector trim would only be happening if you were not accelerating when the MIL came on. That was guesswork, of course.

If you cleared the code and waited for it to come back, the freeze frame data could be completely different. That data just tells you what the readings were at the time the code was set. I would need some more training to be able to tell you.

PP, I can't claim any ingenuity! I just followed directions from others who have done this. I don't think the boxes will interfere any more with air circulation than shelves in a regular fridge do. There are inconsistencies in its internal temp, but I find those in upright refrigerators too; it's always colder at the top under the freezer than on the bottom. One suggestion others have given me is to keep an ice bottle in one of the top containers. The old ice box effect. :)

Sandi, I bought the freezer unit new, and it was about $200 including tax. The thermostat was $55, so my cost was around $250. If one already had a freezer to convert or bought it used, the cost would be less.

Can't tell you how much I admire your ingenuity and willingness to try "new" and "different" things in the name of energy saving and efficiency. And, oh my, the energy expected to be saved is amazing! Gotta say that I do dislike the idea of a chest type refrigerator though. I know I could make do with it if I had to, but also know that my main chest freezer has baskets (always loaded) that fit all across the top and I'm constantly hefting them aside to get to whatever is stored in the chest underneath . . . and it feels like a hassle. I'd be putting up a terrible fuss if anyone tried to take my kitchen refridge away from me. It's an upright, all-refridgerator Crosley (no freezer) that we've had for close to 25 years with absolutely no problems and we rarely hear the motor running. I don't think they are currently being made so I sure hope I haven't jinxed myself bragging as I have. :o\

Mama Pea, I have the same problem with my chest freezer, so I'm really hoping to do a better job of organizing the chest fridge. It's smaller though, so hopefully that will help (?)


They still make an upright all-fridge (no freezer) and I considered it but this worked out to be a better bargain. I don't remember what the brand was. Nice your's is still working so well! They're probably not as well made nowadays.

We've got milk crates in our freezer with stuff crammed into the extra space around them. It has been on my list for awhile to someday build my own crates out of 1/4" plywood that fit better and are in more convenient sizes.

Ed, finding the perfect organization solution is a huge challenge! In a freezer, plywood boxes in custom sizes sounds ideal. Because of my potential condensation I'm stuck with plastic. 


Jo, thanks! I'm especially amazed at how little electricity this fridge uses. I've got it plugged into our solar and it has made little difference in the amount we're drawing from the battery bank.


Nancy, that's an ideal size, I think. The baskets seem to fit better in that size.

I'm pretty happy with my solution for organizing my chest freezer, but not sure how it would work for a chest fridge, because of both moisture and the type of stuff you might store in a fridge. I bought a set (two sets actually) of nylon reusable grocery bags. As much as possible they're color coded so I know that yellow is corn, purple is bell pepper, etc. When I'm looking for something I can just lift out whole bags to get below them. So stuff stays sorted. 0852c4b9a8

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