Free Download Every Circuit Fixed

Has anyone ever used the circuit simulation 'EveryCircuit'? I bought an android license for it back in 2012 and used it quite a bit for simple circuit tests prior to building something as a lay person. It was a useful way to see a circuit work to better understand it.I just went back to use it again to try to figure out something on a mosfet switch circuit, but the values they use for adding a mosfet and configuring it are units I can't seem to find on a datasheet anywhere. Things like:

alltransistors.com have almost everything detailed with a very useful function searching similar transistor, yes it does have mosfet spec. but i doubt there is lambda and KP spec, i never understand either, because there is only Vds Vgs Id, etc even on the original and official specification there is no Lambda spec

Free Download Every Circuit

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I somehow doubt that "every machine is a RLC circuit in terms of physics" because resistors, inductors, and capacitors are linear components, whereas diodes, transistors, and digital logic circuits are nonlinear components according to _circuit#Linear_and_nonlinear_components

Arc fault detectors have a fairly high failure rate and can be tripped by certain "normal" conditions, so they probably shouldn't be used for all circuits (especially, eg, refrigerator, freezer, furnace). But not a bad idea for bedroom circuits.

There's a proposal to the NEC (for 2011) that if adopted in June 2010, will require almost all outlets (lighting, receptacle, and other) on residential 15 & 20 amp branch circuits to be AFCI-protected (exceptions: receptacles that are GFCI-protected, like kitchen counter and bath receptacles).

ANSWER 2: A standard breaker is intended to trip on overload, or if there's a short circuit. There may have been an overload in your case, but a breaker doesn't trip instantly on overload at the rated ampacity of the breaker. A common 15-amp GE breaker will allow 75 amps to pass for 10 seconds before tripping. See this time-current curve: -6119D%7Cgeneric. Big suprise to most people...

About where to go from here, short of opening every receptacle and switch box and checking the connections... there is a way you can sleep a little better. Do a voltage drop test of every circuit. Ideal Industries has a voltage drop tester (the Sure Test) as does Tasco Industries (the Inspector III). These are fantastic instruments, they're like a cardiac treadmill test for your wiring.

The tester puts a heavy current on the circuit for a very short time and measures the voltage, and calculats percentage voltage drop. Every connection causes some small bit of voltage drop, and a weak connection causes a lot more voltage drop.

Back to the question on the AFCI's on all circuits...I'll look into putting them into all circuits except for those with appliances that may cause repeated trips (ie fridge, furnace, a/c). Sounds like those circuits would have similar issues with GFCI breakers.

Cliff wrote: "About where to go from here, short of opening every receptacle and switch box and checking the connections... there is a way you can sleep a little better. Do a voltage drop test of every circuit. Ideal Industries has a voltage drop tester (the Sure Test) as does Tasco Industries (the Inspector III). These are fantastic instruments, they're like a cardiac treadmill test for your wiring."

It does appear from the photo that the "hot spot" was the blade/socket contact point. However, the OP also indicated he was inadvertently overloading the circuit. I can't conclude by looking at that photo that socket contact pressure contributed to the problem.

With pretty much every circuit in a home needing one of the two types of protection (AFCI or GFCI), why don't all new homes have combination breakers installed just to be safe? Would it hurt anything using both types of protections for every breaker? I know that based on code we technically don't NEED both types of protection, but is it necessarily a bad thing to have?

You may have a problem finding AFCIs larger than 20/30 amps, and you may have trouble finding 2-pole AFCIs in some cases. In this instance, for equivalent protection where AFCI is not mandated, simply run those circuits in metal conduit, e.g. EMT/THHN wire. This will protect the wire, not the appliances.

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What do you do when you have more than 14 breakers in a single panel, and when you have a subpanel with 8 additional? I understand you could put a CT in the main panel, but I would like to know what breaker/circuit on the subpanel I have concerns for.

There are several methods of combining circuits into one CT, and although the individual circuits loads cannot be identified automatically, most significant appliances can be identified in a daily usage graph.

Personally, I love the granularity as well. That said, on a 42-circuit panel most people would be hard-pressed to identify 14 unique and meaningful individual loads. Example: You need two branch circuits (in the US) for kitchen counters. It is highly unlikely that both are separately meaningful. I have 4 circuits for interior lighting in a panel, same situation. Then there are 240V loads like water heaters, ovens, clothes dryers, and similar that only need metering on one pole.

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408.4(A) Circuit Directory or Circuit Identification. Every circuit and circuit modification shall be legibly identified as to its clear, evident, and specific purpose or use. The identification shall include an approved degree of detail that allows each circuit to be distinguished from all others.

Spare positions that contain unused overcurrent devices or switches shall be described accordingly. The identification shall be included in a circuit directory that is located on the face or inside of the panel door in the case of a panelboard and at each switch or circuit breaker in a switchboard or switchgear. No circuit shall be described in a manner that depends on transient conditions of occupancy. window.fbAsyncInit = function() {FB.init({appId: '268138333964180', xfbml: true, version: 'v3.1'});FB.AppEvents.logPageView(); }; (function(d, s, id){ var js, fjs = d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0]; if (d.getElementById(id)) {return;} js = d.createElement(s); js.id = id; js.src = " _US/sdk.js"; js.async = true;//

Hi,

Where can i find a genuine circuit diagram for the Arduino Nano EVERY please?

I am particularly interested in finding out if the VUSB and Vin are connected together before I do powered up in circuit debugging. (Serial.Println etcetera).

HI thanks don't know why I didn't find this?

My project has some analogue signal conditioning running off 5V feeding into A0 pin on the Every.

This electronics is powered directly from an on board LM7805 5V regulator.

The Nano Every is also powered from this regulator.

The analogue stuff only takes a few milliamps.

Subsequently I realised the Nano has a 1.2A 5V output from its MPM3610 SMPSU chip.

In your experience would it be better to always power external circuitry from the Nano's 5V out pin to keep everything running from the same 5V?

Dave

I'm no expert in this sort of thing, but my understanding is that, although less efficient, the linear voltage regulators like the LM7805 will produce a cleaner power than the switching power supplies. So if this is a concern for your analog circuitry, it might make sense to stick with the LM7805. You also might need a separate 5 V power supply if the on-board supply is not sufficient to provide the current needed to power the board as well as the external circuitry. Otherwise, I would definitely power everything from the on-board power just because it makes for a more compact and more simple circuit.

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