Using the AK CD Ripper MKII since a few weeks and it is working fine. Just plug & play.

Remark: The only thing to do is for my purpose that I tag all ripped CDs with a separate software as I also use them on mobile players and it us hardly to find anything out of the ripped files the way Ronn names them.

Link is as short as it will go. This helped. Draft is in Heavy mode. This helped. New teeth are next. I like the idea of getting more angle on the teeth. Where do you get these teeth? Never had a ripper before There is a second hole where the lower hitch arms are attached. You can see this in one of the pictures. If I hook arms in the top hole that would give a little more angle. Once I get teeth on I will work on the angle. With proper teeth what depth should I expect to get out of this ripper?

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I agree with putting those lower arms in the other hole to change that angle. With new points on my #14 v-ripper, I set the angle so the underside of the point is running parallel with the ground At working depth.

Ok, the frame needs to be level when in ground. The tips with wings really do shatter soil better. On certain soil types of our land we see significant yield increases in grass even with ripping. The heavy ground (clay) really dries out and establishes better with ripping. We pull a 7 of mt FILs evry few seasons on heavy land. Every other year if corn, before planting if going into grass. The 7 is juuust too much/the max for the 8930 at 240 hp. Just keep it steady and deep. Go 4 mph not 5 etc, a 5 shank be better for sure.

74-472 raised a concern of mine about the rear end repair. This ripper is old and uses shear pins in the shanks for when you hit a rock which there are plenty of here. The shear bolts have been replaced with grade 8's and bolts are bowed from the stress on them. It would make sense to either get a ripper that has resets or just pay someone to do what need to be done.

My thoughts on the shearing process is: that the plates would have to be harder than the shearing bolt in order to maintain there rigid stability (prevent deforming). Most of the framework of the rippers I have experienced are not much more than mild steel-------with the shanks being higher tensile ratings.

Show is the mangled ripper when (not if) it happens with the grade 8 bolts. Although your tires may spin first saving you from mangling the ripper. But if you put better tires on and weight BANG!! will happen!

As you think about this puzzle------it appears that the size of the shear bolt would enter the equation with consideration being given to original power considerations at time of design of the implement.

Would also be interesting in knowing the strength and hardness of a file vs a grade 8 bolt. I would think the file is much harder-----but have less "shear strength" due to it's brittleness even with same diameter/shape?

Non scientific comment coming here folks: I had a real comical guy who worked with me on the farm back in the 80's. He used to say: "nothing is harder than a preacher's dxxxk up a calf's a$$ on Sunday morning"!!!! (but I never found out how that compared to a file or grade 8 bolt)

Let your top link out a lot. Get you a quick hitch to get farther back from the tractor. Those wings are called shatter wings the move a lot ground down deep but do make harder to pull. I pull a unverfearth ripper stripper with a 1086. For it to run level when picked up the back is closer to the ground than I like I have take toplink up to trval on rd. Now it is about 8 feet long and weighs 3500. I might be dead wrong but I bet you unhooked that top link let your lift arms down it will stop you in your tracks within 15 feet. When you get in the ground whole frame should run level. You don't want it nosed down. It will pull 50-11 times easier with new points. But you have other issues if only going 5'' deep. Here most would run 15-18" I strip till 14''

Harder the metal the more brittle it becomes heat treating changes carbon structure and content. Keep in mind with bolts is that they are designed to clamp the parts that they are fastening and the clamping is what keeps the parts from moving in the shear direction. So a grade 8 bolt not properly torqued will fail just as quick as a 5 or 2 since an 8 is harder than a 5 or 2 there will be less deformation before failure.

Found another ripper that is spring reset. One bottom is damaged. Any ideas where I could get a replacement bottom. Now it has two bottoms working and I would like to have three. No parts available through CASE/IH

Bitty is right, grade 8 are designed to give the most strength lengthwise while grade 5 has the most strenght crosswise. Took a tour thru CAT's Morton facility a few years ago & they have a test area where they test bolt strength. Watched then put pressures on bolts lengthwise of over 100,000# without breaking. Same grade bolt broke a nuch less pressure when the pressure was applied horizontally. Also, have a friend that worked for a company that made bolts & he claimed grade 8s were more brittle horizontally than grade 8s

Most companies use grade 5 bolts for shear bolts. Grade 2 bolts make poor shear bolts as they will bend but not always break. On a personal experience, we use to have a DMI 527 disc ripper. When we first ourchased it we pulled it with a 7240mfd. Very seldom ever broke a shear bolt, which btw were grade 5 from the factory. Purchsed a CIH 9230 and started running the machine deeper. In turn started shear bolts more frequently, sometimes 5-6 a day so put in grade 8s. With grade 8s we would shear 20 or more a day, sometimes would replace a bolt & wouldn't go 100' until shear same bolt. This was in ground that didn't have rocks. Talked to the dealer who called DMI, who said we needed to go back to grade 5s and to be sure tgat the bolt shank went completly thru the shear point. Didn't compl solve the problem but did go back to just breaking a few every day. Next year bought a 530B to go behind the 9230 & put the 7240 back on the 527 and seldom sheared a bolt.

On brittleness and shear strength, another consideration is shear load vs impact loading. If you put a file in a vise and hit with a hammer, it will behave differently than if you were to put it in a Clevis and carefully hang weights from it.

A couple of thoughts come to mind. Is the draft lever or setting pulling the ripper up when the load comes on the tractor? Are the ripper points worn so bad that they do not have any "Suck" ? Are they the correct points? Will the 3 point hitch allow the ripper to go any lower? If all else fails the tractor may just be bored.

What make / model # of the ripper. Post some pics & maybe someone can help you out on making the necessary adjustments. Doubt if you want a bigger ripper on a 1086. W have a 5 / 7 shank in-line that will bring our 315 to t's knees when folded to a 5 shank. Will stop our STX 435 in it's tracks when unfolded an ran as a 7 shank in certain situations.

If all else fails, place some weights on ripper to encourage depth, Ground may be harder then you think. Three shank ripper may not be heavy enough to seek penetration. Lot of vineyard guys around here use three shank v-style three point and I have seen many of them with couple of rear tractor weights on them.

Will try to get pictures. Should have done that first. I think the teeth are the biggest problem. Then the hitch arms. The ripper is a V model and has place to bolt on more sections to make it 5 Shank. The tips are worn square to the shank.

Check with your farm equipment dealers------any number of allied manufactures made sub-chisels through the years. Some national and some local manufacturers. That looks to be a common 1" thick shank?----------may have to do some adapting.

If I were you I would quickly park this ripper in the fence row before you end up with a very expensive rear end repair. I do not think you will gain much of anything. but a lot of farmers like some exercise even if it does not pay out.

I pull a 5 with my 1086, usually remove 2 and go with 3 just to make it a little bit easier on tractor since I don't farm for a living. I do not have the wings on mine yet, just have the regular tips. I have a heavy white clay (called crawfish dirt in local slang) that was bottom plowed for 50 years, then laid fallow for last 30 years. Water would stand for weeks during winter until I ripped it. Plow pan is horrible on my place, but noticed a big difference after giving it one pass. After I get through making one pass on the whole place I'll get the winged tips and go at it perpendicular to the first pass. Don't know if it would work everywhere or for everyone's needs but it definitely helped the ground to absorb the water instead of running off or just pooling up in low spots.

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