Download Google Camera Android 13

And setting it a smartphone as a security camera isn't hard at all. In fact, you can start using that time-worn phone to keep your home safe in just three steps. As for the other phones is your drawer, here's how you can sell them or do a trade-in. (For more tips, check out why your internet router is probably in the wrong spot and the six places you should be putting home security cameras on your property.)

To begin, you will need to choose a security camera app for your phone. Most apps offer many of the same features, such as local streaming, cloud streaming, recording and storing footage locally or remotely, and motion detection and alerts. Once you're set up, you will be able to monitor your living space and control your security camera from anywhere, straight from your new phone.

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One of the best app options for setting up your phone as a security camera is Alfred. It's cross-platform, so it doesn't matter if your old phone was an Android phone or iPhone. And the same goes for your new phone.

Alfred is free to use and gives you a remote view of your live feed, motion detection with alerts, free cloud storage, a two-way audio feed and use of both the front and rear cameras. To unlock additional features, like higher-resolution viewing and recording, zoom capabilities, ad removal and 30-day cloud storage, you can upgrade to Alfred Premium.

Once both phones are signed in to Alfred, you're pretty much done with the setup. Alfred has simplified the camera options to only include a few settings. On iOS, you can only enable motion detection, choose between the front and rear cameras and enable or disable audio. If you're using an Android device, you have those options and you can also enable continuous focus, have Alfred automatically reopen if the phone reboots, set a resolution and enable a passcode lock.

From your new phone, you can change a few more settings, such as turning notifications on or off, setting a camera or viewer name, adding other people to your Trust Circle (granting other people access to your video feeds), removing a camera, checking how many times a camera has disconnected, setting motion detection sensitivity and enabling a low-light filter on cameras.

After you have the stream up and running, you will need to set up and position the camera. You may want it focused on the main entry point to your home, your backyard, the place where you store valuables or a point you think might be particularly vulnerable. You can also set up an IP camera as a baby monitor.

To mount or position the camera, a small smartphone tripod or suction-cup car mount can work wonders and help you position the camera in an inconspicuous place. To broaden the field of view, consider buying a wide-angle lens for your phone, something that can be purchased for between $5 and $20 online.

If you are using Android 11+, I don't think there's a good way to do what you need. You can use an appearance of ex:com.jeyluta.timestampcamerafree() to launch Timestamp Camera, but the app doesn't know how to return an image directly to Collect.

What Android version are you using? Are you sure you have the free version installed from =com.jeyluta.timestampcamerafree? If you have one of the paid versions you have to make sure to use the corresponding app id.

The app developer did get back to me with a very helpful message! We need to do some design and exploration around what he suggests and will try to have a solution for Collect 2023.4 in September or so. What we would like to try to do is provide a way to specify in the form the app ID of an alternate camera app.

this would really be very useful.

I'm using android 12 and 11, I tested it on two smartphones and both didn't work, I'm using the free version of the TimeStamp app..

this would be great because I would also like to use the camera with an application to scan documents "CamScaner" it would also be perfect for my work, if you can include this function it would also be great.

While capturing photos using Lightroom's in-app camera, your camera lens auto-focuses on the live scene by default. However, in scenarios where you want a sharper focus on a particular area of interest like a subject in the background instead of the foreground, you can manually refocus the lens on that area.

Raw capture In the camera module, tap the capture file format badge (DNG, by default) at the top of the viewfinder and then choose DNG. You can now capture the photos in Digital Negative (DNG) raw format.

Choose any of the presets to apply it on your live capture. This allows you to preview your photo before you capture it. When you launch the Adobe in-app camera again, it auto-defaults to the last preset that you used.

If it is pairing problem, just a guess, I would skip the E27 lamp adapter (another variable), plug directly into a source, and pair/install/cell phone, camera all close to the router, like touching distance. Once successful, then install into your final destination w the E27 lamp adapter. Of my 6 installed smart cams, 4 using the E27 gooseneck light bulb extension adapter. All 4 adapter worked fine. My current working cams, 4 in Jacksonville Fl, and 2 in Williston ND. I have tried many different ones, many, before settled down on these. Been running 6+ month, no problems.

Hi everybody, just upgraded to Android 13 on my new FP4 and noticed that the shortcuts for the camera and flashlight have disappeared. Anybody having the same issue? And any idea how to get these shortcuts back to lockscreen?

Since updating my FP4 to Android 13 (C.073), the lock screen is missing the camera and phone symbol. Before the update, bottom left showed a phone symbol and bottom right showed a camera symbol. With the camera symbol, I could easily open the camera from lock screen without unlocking the device.

I wanted to enter EAA area but I didn't want to take a computer with me. I have spend enough time using my computer at work so I don't want to use it at field. I wanted portable system to use with the astronomical camera.

I noticed that SVBony SV105 and SV205 works with standard protocol called USB Video Class (UVC) and there are even some apps that show images from these cameras when connected to Android smart phone. Also I noticed that web cameras are frequently converted for astronomy use. So I wondered - since there is more than enough computing power on a smart phone why do we need to bring a laptop.

I used libusb and libuvc I added some fixes for android to change buffer sizes. I also written simple stacking algorithm using opencv (registration is based on phase correlation and stacking is based on simple mean). I sill have communication issues that are either specific to my smart phone or generic. I managed to get stable frames on sv105 up to 800x600 - on larger frames I got issues with stability of communication.

Now I did live stacking of Globular clusters M13, M92 and Ring Nebula. All taken on AstroMaster 102/660, camera SVBony sv105, gain 0, gamma 2.2, exposure 0.5s, WB 6500K. Darks 20 frames.

I used downscale output from sensors 800x600, Manual tracking. Both globular clusters are collected using around 200 images (100s) I did about two pauses in stacking and corrected position to keep object in frame.

For example my main issue right now is that working with tablet isn't stable I have frequent cases of camera disconnected (due to cables and so) and it is problematic. Also I find smart phone screen sometimes too small. And I need to check if registration algorithm are good enough.

artik, if you have a hard time getting beta testers, would you consider pivoting your project from EAA app with a CMOS camera to EAA app with a smartphone camera? You have started on stacking, tracking, and auto stretch. Can the code be used for photos taken by a smartphone camera?

Yes the stacking code does not depend on specific camera, the idea is to extend in future it beyond UVC cameras (like sv105/205) to both built in smart phone camera and ASI ZWO that actually provide Android SDK.

However for it is clear that even cheapest camera like sv105 that costs less that NexYZ smart phone adapter gives by far better images. I could capture with it objects and details I can't see with my eyes while smart phone camera shows way less than my eyes see. Not talking about that it is much more convenient to setup and does not add weight on the mount and problems of stray light between phone and the eyepiece.

Agreed. There are already "deep sky" camera apps for phones and while I don't know of any specifically that do stacking, I find the results on the phones available to me to be significantly less quality than the SV305 and even a modest 200mm/f4 guide scope type rig. I would like to see this software continue to be developed for UVC cameras and not worry about the ASIC specific cell phone "rigs."

A even more crazy thought. Now most of us have a smartphone adapter that connect the smartphone to the eyepiece for afocal photo shooting. Can we try to use the smartphone camera to capture images and stack from there as EAA. True that this is not prime focus the image quality can be inferior but this is even a step closer to native visual. I can have an eyepiece dedicated for EAA which is accurately bonded to the smartphone and swap between visual and EAA in seconds. ff782bc1db