After hiking to the Palisade Glacier via the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail, I thought I would try the lesser traveled South Fork Trail. So I picked a Thursday, got a backpacking permit, and off I went. The plan was to hike to Brainerd Lake, set up camp there, and hike to Finger Lake the next day. I am well aware of climbers who went above Finger Lake and summited the 14,019 foot Middle Palisade's northeast face via Class 3 scrambling. Although I was not going to do it myself, I wanted to see the route with my own eyes.

The elevation gain to Brainerd Lake is just under 3,000 feet, but for the first mile and a half, it feels like a stroll in the park. You are hiking in a sun-drenched valley, but on this October day, even hiking in the early afternoon sun wasn't so bad. I caught up to nine backpackers at the infamous creek crossing (impassable in wet season), and found out that they were heading to the seven lakes, which are actually on the North Fork Trail! I guess they missed that right turn just as I did the first time, but apparently none of them bothered to check their maps or GPS until more than a mile into the hike! After much cursing and gnashing of teeth, they decided to go back.

At the John Muir Wilderness boundary, the smooth part of the hike ran into this massive rock face, which would require switchbacks that gain just under 1,000 feet. Because it's facing north, however, you would probably have to put on another layer and hat even though you are generating a lot of heat.

Shortly after clearing this massive hurdle, where you are going becomes clear for the first time on this hike. You can see the Middle Palisade glacier being split by a ridge, which acts as the approach to the northeast face of the Middle Palisade Peak. Below that is Finger Lake being hemmed in by cliffs on both sides (of course you won't be able to see the lake from this angle). Further below that is another huge vertical face of rocks acting as the boundary for Brainerd Lake.

From here, you would drop down a couple hundred feet and pass by Willow Lake, which is basically a large swamp loved by mosquitoes. On this chilly October day, I still saw them buzzing in the air. Although they didn't bother me that much, I can only imagine what it would be like on warmer summer days.

After gaining another 500 feet or so, and passing by a small pond that I first thought was Brainerd Lake, I arrived at the real one. On this day, the lake didn't look all that remarkable. After all, brainy nerds aren't supposed to be good looking. I quickly set up camp and began to enjoy the quietness. Apart from those nine backpackers on the wrong trail and another day hiker on the way down, I was the only human near the Middle Palisades on that particular day.

The next morning, I contemplated climbing up to Finger Lake. The official South Fork Trail ended at Brainerd Lake. To continue, I must follow clues left by other hikers before me. In any case, I would have to climb up over these rocks.

Looking back down at Brainerd Lake and Willow Lake from a distance once I get above the rock field:

From this picture of the Finger Lake, you can compare the Middle Palisade Glacier with the view taken by other climbers from above the western flank of the lake. The summit route they took is clearly visible, in particular the rocky ridge that divides the glacier. It's hard to make out the standard route vs the red rock route above the ridge, however. It all looks impossible to me from this angle, but they said it was only Class 3, so it should be feasible without technical equipment.

You might as well call this Mirror Lake because of the perfect reflections in the water. But the frozen part of the lake produces some weird effects.

Overall, I would rated the North and South Fork Trails of Big Pine Creek much ahead of the Mt. Whitney Trail in terms of beauty. They are also much less crowded. You won't see people leaving their wag bags on the trail. In fact, sometimes you won't see anyone at all!