If you have followed that guide, you have extruded the 100 mm through the heated nozzle.This results in your steps/mm value to also be influenced by hot end temperature, speed during the extrusion test, and potentially pressure on the extruder grip gear.
Try recalibrating your extruder, but this time, disconnect the Bowden tube either at the hot end, or at the extruder.Once you have the steps/mm set to something only related to the mechanics of the extruder, you can calibrate your flow rate - which you should usually do per filament type and even spool individually.
HOW TO: Calibrate Ender 3 Extrusion
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The extruder basically is a spinning motor that pushes along filament at some extrusion rate $e_r [\frac{\text{mm}}{\text{step}}]$ and it's related factor $s_e [\frac{\text{step}}{\text{mm}}]=\frac 1 {e_r}$ via a hobbed gear - or in the case of this extruder via a pair of synchronous hobbed gears. The motor in an Ender 3 is a typical NEMA17 with $s=1.8\ \frac{\text{deg}}{\text{step}}$ (and up to 16 micostepssee here). It spins a hobbed gear, which has an outer diameter $d_o$, and the teeth are cut to a depth that generates the inner diameter $d_i$. Somewhere between these diameters is the effective diameter $d_e$. So, using basic geometry we get:
Now, that we know the theoretical setting of mm/step or steps/mm ($e_r$ and $s_e$) for the firmware, we need to discuss how the filament impacts this. First of all, the calculation above holds only true for pushing even thickness filament that the teeth bite in evenly. If the filament does change in thickness, the effective diameter of our gear changes, and as a result, the extrusion changes. A thicker diameter filament does not get dug in as deep, the effective diameter goes up, and thus the circumference $C_e$.
The next part we have to look at is the behavior in the hotend and nozzle. In perfect conditions, the heat zone would melt up the filament fully and ensure a stable, laminar flow through the nozzle as it necks down the material from its starting diameter to the extrusion width.
As we established up in the Extruder part, the extrusion rate is somewhat dependent on the effective diameter of the hobbed gear $d_e$. The effective diameter of the hobbed gear also has an effect on the pressure in the nozzle: how deep the teeth cut into the filament determines the force they transmit. The other factor that impacts the force transmitted via the filament is the extrusion speed $v_e$, thus we write $F(d_e,v_e)$. Atop that, the actual filament diameter $A'$ plays another factor, as explored under filament effects. The thermal expansion, which is dependant on the material coefficient $\alpha$ and the Temperature increase $\Delta T$ adds to the pressure in the nozzle, thus we write $P_e(\alpha,\Delta T)$. So the expression for the volumetric flow out of the nozzle is
This included a slight adjustment to the default E-Steps, some options renamed on the menu, etc. The reason I suggested 1mm increments is because the early models would actually power cycle if you went in large increments or scrolled too fast. This was a confirmed problem in the Ender-5 community, and my first one reset nearly a dozen times before the E-steps were finally calibrated. They have obviously fixed and improved some things since then, where I will make a few small updates to reflect that.
Once you have that disabled, you can start troubleshooting the actual extrusion issue. I would set your e-steps back to the default of 93.0 for the time being. Check the extruder itself as well, the cheap plastic ones they use are prone to all sorts of problems. Cracks in the plastic, low tooth count brass gears that wear out fast, etc. I strongly recommend those $5 aluminum extruders and an upgraded 40T Stainless Steel gear. This costs less than $10 total and will be a massive upgrade.
I had an under extrusion issue when I tried a new filament. To fix the problem, I had to change my originally calibrated esters from 97 to 254. I changed the nozzle and also ran the test without going through the nozzle or PFTE tube. Should I be concerned that the esters is so high now?
I replaced my plastic extruder assembly with a metal one and began trying to calibrate my esteps using the free air method. I did this previously when I received my printer without issue, but now I am having a terrible time. I will tell the printer to extrude 100 mm of filament, measure it, calculate the estep value, set the estep value, then have it extrude 100 mm, and the resulting piece of filament will be off. That's fine, I know it is a process.
Suppose the motherboard wants to push 1 mm of filament: If these values are synced up correctly, you get 1 mm of filament. If they are not synced up (your motherboard has values that are not tuned), you might get .8 mm (under-extrusion) or 1.2 mm (over extrusion).
9. Using your current eStep value, calculate your new eStep value. By default I have seen 93 so we'll suppose you have that value. Let's suppose from your above calculation, you were under extruding and calculated actual extrusion at 80 mm, but you know you wanted to extrude 100. You need to calculate 100 / 80 * 93 = 116. In this case you would click on eSteps/mm and turn the dial to 116. What if you overextruded, and you actually had 120 mm come out? You would take 100 / 120 * 93 = 78 and enter that value instead.
I'm following this guide. I've already successfully calibrated my e-steps. No issue there. However, when trying to calibrate the flow, after I printed the cube, I will have different measurements depending on what side of the cube I measure.
I have got these values from klipper/printer-creality-ender3-s1-2021.cfg at masterĀ Klipper3d/klipperĀ GitHub. this printer come with the sprite extruder as standard (same extruder mine has been upgraded with) so these setting are the same for my printer (pin numbers slightly different due to different printboard)
Maybe it is wrong with the gear_ratio and rotation_distance parameters?
Just calibrate the feeder and enter the calculated rotation_distance and omit the gear_ratio.
To calibrate the extruder steps on Ender 3, extrude a certain amount of filament through the control screen, then measure it to see if it extruded the right amount, or more/less. The difference between the set value and measured value can be used to calculate the correct E-steps value for your Ender 3.
Some people talk about calibrating the E-Steps at the end of the extruder without a nozzle. However, a user said that he likes to calibrate e-steps with the method mentioned above as it includes the nozzle as well.
To calibrate the XYZ steps of an Ender 3 you can 3D print a 20mm XYZ Calibration Cube. Just print the cube and measure it from all axes using digital calipers. If all axes measure exactly 20mm, well and good, but if there is a difference even in fractions, you need to calibrate the XYZ steps.
To calibrate the XYZ steps, you need to download the XYZ Calibration Cube from Thingiverse. The X, Y, and Z letters indicate each specific axis which makes it easy for you to conclude which axis needs calibration and which axis is accurately calibrated.
To get a good finish and accurate dimensions of your printed parts, the flow rate of the printer needs to be properly calibrated. I put together an easy-to-use flow rate calculator which should help with flow rate calibration.
The flow rate calibration is done in order to fine tune the amount of plastic extruded by the printer. Also known as Extrusion Multiplier, by calibrating the flow rate you can fix issues caused by under-extrusion or over-extrusion. Besides this, flow rate calibration can also improve retraction values a bit and help with bulging corners and layer seam.
If the extruder steps are properly calibrated, the flow rate value should be really close to a single digit value (1.00).
If you are looking to calibrate your 3D printer further, then check out the 3D Printer Calibration Guide using IdeaMaker. For printer upgrades, you can also check out my Ultimate 3D Printer Upgrade Purchase Guide article where I go over a lot of hardware which can improve your print quality.
If your printer has a motion system based on V-roller wheels riding on V-slot extrusions, check they are properly tensioned. Each location will have one eccentric nut. This can be twisted to either add or remove tension on the wheels.
If recompiling the firmware is not an option. The M92 command for each extruder can be inserted into the slicer 'tool change' section. This way the correct e-steps will be set just before extrusion for that tool takes place.
Some people prefer to have multiple walls and measure them together. For example, if the extrusion width was 0.4mm with two perimeters, then you would be hoping to measure 0.8mm for the cube wall. This does introduce more variables, such as the amount of perimeter overlap, and therefore a risk of the process failing. This is why I personally prefer a single wall cube, but each to their own.
This print shows clear signs of under extrusion. There are gaps in the top infill as well as gaps between the perimeters and infill. Despite what any calibration procedure determined, the flow rate for this slicer/printer combination needs to be increased.
You may also consider holding the cube up to a bright light source, to see if there are any gaps in the extrusion. Small gaps may indicate the need to margially increase flow rate. If this test cube is too small to do this effectively, most models completed in vase/spiral mode will be suitable.
If you are experiencing significant over or under extrusion that prevents you from using the tests properly, by using the custom start gcode function on this site you can optionally issue an M221 to override the values in the generatored gcode. For example, using M221 S90 would tell the firmware to only extrude 90% of what the gcode asks for. This is an easy method for making a quick correction that will alow the tests to complete successfully. be457b7860
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