Coaching and NPCS
Rolling Stock
Improving the Triang Horsebox
This is a fuller version of the article published in 'Mixed Traffic' - July 2020, MT 220
The unmodified Triang TT Horsebox - T78
First job was to run my micrometer over the Tri-ang horsebox and noted the key dimensions with a view to trying to identify it's parentage. From my limited information on horseboxes I decided that the Tri-ang box had many features in common with the LNER 22 ft horsebox to diagram 5, code 8005. Clearly there had been some compromises made for commercial expediency in the 1960's but as the flat sided body shape, height and width were correct I decided to try and move the model more towards accuracy without losing it's inherent 'Tri-angness'. That meant that I'd live with the raised plank lines even though my modifications would be grooved.
Prior to starting anything like this, I set up a 'Project Box'. This keeps everything connected with the job in one place whist I work on it. The box, usually an old margarine or ice cream tub contains all the parts I buy, any notes or sketches I make and a drawing. The first task was to study the drawing and photo in Peter Tatlow's 'Historic Carriage drawings Vol 3, Non-Passenger Coaching Stock. From this I drew up a list of modifications and worked out how I was going to do each one. Peter has very kindly allowed the 3 mm society to publish his drawing in 'Mixed Traffic' for our non commercial use.
The body.
First task was to strip the model. The roof was removed and put aside then using a new scalpel blade and sharpened screwdriver as a chisel, I carefully sliced off for re-use the two middle hinges from the horse compartment doors. Next to go were the door rests and the bottom louvre of both ventilators. Whilst I was at it, I scraped off the end detail, the door ventilators, handles and handrails, being careful to try and preserve the plank lines.
A razor saw between the chassis and body removed the securing lugs to separate the two. I discarded the 12' WB chassis and wheels but removed the couplings for re-use, by filing off the rivet heads.
The body needed to be lengthened from 64 mm to 66.4 mm. Firstly I sawed through the divider between the fodder and horse compartments using a Junior hacksaw which cut out 0.8 mm then cleaned up the cuts to lose 1 mm in total so that when the body is rejoined, these two compartments are a scale 4 inches closer together. The next cut was just inside the outboard frame of the grooms compartment window leaving the body in three.
Next job was to file out the windows to final width as they are already to the correct height. The toilet windows were widened to meet the end, the door drop light was filed out and the groom compartment window frame filed out towards the door. You can check the dimensions from the drawing. Three pieces of 60 thou plastic card were cut 2 mm wide and cemented into the opening to raise the bottom of the windows up to 9 mm from the bottom of the side.
When all was set firm, some filling was required. I used Humbrol plastic filler but brushed solvent onto the join before adding the filler. I found it makes a better bond to the plastic. The following day I scribed new plank lines to coincide with the existing raised lines...and it really doesn't look as bad as it sounds when it's all finished and painted. The photo shows the additions.
The body was reassembled using plastic card by cutting a new inner floor from 20 thou 63.5 mm x 20.5 mm and two inner sides from 20 thou off cuts 15 mm high x 20 mm long. These were glued with solvent into the fodder end and allowed to dry before attaching the center part of the body so the joints were re-enforced on the inside. The body was weighted down to keep it flat whilst the solvent dried overnight. Next a 63 mm long strip of 60 thou was cut 6.4 mm wide. I'm not that good at cutting, I just marked and cut it approx 7 mm wide and carefully filed it to correct width, checking with the micrometer at regular intervals. It was easy enough to cut a new piece and try again when I overdid the filing.
The strip was cut into 3 x 21 mm lengths and used to fill the sides and bottom in order to join the horse compartment to the toilet compartment. Ensure the strips are well glued to both parts and lie flush inside and out to give a new total body length of 66.4 mm. Having given some thought to the roof design, at this stage I fitted two 40 thou partitions into the body, shaped by drawing round the ends but only 20 mm high and 20.5 mm wide at the bottom tapering up to a width of 21.5 at the top (the plastic moulded sides being tapered). One partition was glued to form the back of the grooms compartment, the other glued against the inner side reinforcement.
With the basic body built, I added new plain flat door ventilators from 10 thou and new door rests to the horse compartment doors from 20 thou strips, 1 mm wide. The corners of these were rounded slightly with fine emery paper.
The roof needed to be lengthened but it would look better if it wasn't quite so thick. I cut the side overhangs off to leave a shallow curved 'tray' which then pushed snugly into the body and sat on the two partitions. A few tweaks with the file got the tray sitting square and at the same height as the body ends. To this I glued a pre-curved rectangle of 10 thou plastic card, 67 mm x 27 mm ensuring an equal overhang all round. When set it could be pushed into the body to sit nicely on the sides and ends. I needed to drill some small holes through the body floor so I could push a probe through in order to push the roof out back out again. The roof was finished with cast torpedo vents and a small brass turning as the toilet filler.
Now for the detail. Grab rails, door handles and door springs were all made from 0.6 mm brass wire, bent and fitted into pre-drilled holes. The emergency brake gear was represented by small blocks of plastic, drilled 0.6 mm and glued in position at the top corners of the groom end of the vehicle. A further central block was drilled through, placed on some brass wire which was then 'sprung' into the holes of the corner pieces. The central block was then positioned in the middle of the end and glued in place. A further wire was then fitted between the central block and a hole drilled in the end behind the top of where the Vac pipe finished. The header tank filler and drain pipes were bent to shape, fitted with stanchions fashioned from 5A fuse wire and attached through more 0.6 mm holes in the end. Cyano was used to secure all the wire joints. Vac pipes were bent from thick copper wire and secured with cyano into holes under the buffer beam. As I was fitting Tri-ang couplings, I left off the coupling chain and steam heat pipes. The couplings were secured by 1.4 mm x 4.75 mm self tapping screws from Amberley services, fitted to piece of 40 thou plastic glued under the buffer beam.
The underframe.
Underneath the body I scribed a center line down the full length and added the lateral center lines for each axle at 42 mm spacing, 12 mm in from each end.
Next I assembled the society etched W irons by soldering in 4 brass pinpoint bearings then folding the sides and ends in towards the etched lines and soldering the corners. The rocker base plate and the fixed W iron were screwed with small self tappers sourced from Eileen's Emporium, to the floor being careful to line them up to the marks. The rocking pivot was made from 0.9 mm brass wire inserted and secured with a spot of solder on one end. I painted the insides of the irons with matt black before fitting the society 10.5 mm plain coach wheels with a touch of electrolube on the axle ends. Strips of 40 thou were attached with contact adhesive to the front and rear uprights on the 'W' iron base so that 1 mm square brake hangers can be suspended to align with the wheel treads. Brake shoes were then fashioned from 20 thou and glued in position.
The LNER type of axlebox/Spring casting wasn't available so I rummaged through the society shop stock to find the nearest match, and chose HG012 LMS Express with ‘J’ Hangers. I drilled out the axle box 1.5 mm to fit over the bearing and then carefully bent the spring to fit under the sole bar. All four were then supeglued into place and after 24 hours of hardening, the 'Spring/J hanger' joint on the rocking 'W' iron was cut through with a razor saw.
Next the Buffer beams, two pieces of 20 thou cut to size were glued centrally to two pieces of 40 thou by 18.5 mm long of the same depth. I marked the center lines and drilled 0.6 mm pilot holes for the buffers and coupling hooks before gluing the beams in position. The 40 thou gives some strength and also positive location for the sole bars. Two pieces of 2.5 mm plastic channel for sole bars were cut to a length of 64.5 mm were offered up to the wagon and the position of the Rocking iron was marked on the back. The area between these two marks was thinned by filing so there was some clearance to allow the axle to rock before gluing the sole bars in position. A battery box was made up from 20 thou plastic card, detailed with microstrip and attached to the floor. When all was set hard I drilled out the buffer and coupling holes 1.3 mm and then filed up from 20 thou plastic, a pair of coupling hooks which were glued in position. I think I plumped for the CBR006 LMS Round Head Coach Buffers as being the closest match and then fitted them with contact adhesive.
Now for the underside details. These horseboxes had LNER brakes with 3 hangers so Society Vee hangers were used although one wasn't quite the correct shape and had to be fitted clear of the rocking W iron. The Holes were opened out with 0.6 mm drill and then the hangers were glued with impact adhesive into position and allowed to set. Before the rods were added small pieces of 1.5 mm lead sheet were glued under the floor before I turned up a vacuum cylinder in the lathe and used contact adhesive to fit it to the floor. It's much easier to fit these parts before the brake gear.
Brake cross rods were cut from 0.6 mm brass wire for strength and before final fitting with cyano I slid on pre-drilled pieces of 10 thou' x 40 thou' microstrip for the brake linkages. I didn't fit full brake gear, only that with can be seen from normal viewing distance on the layout but it does stop the underside looking quite so bare. Brake handles were cut and filed to shape from the leftover edges of the 'W' iron fret. They were then bent to fit, drilled and superglued to the cross rods and axlebox/spring castings.
Finishing.
So onto the painting. I tend to clean up the model as I build it so so no great preparation is needed. A few minor rubs with well worn 1200 grit wet and dry paper or glass fiber brush before a gentle wash in warm water and Cif using a soft bristle brush. After rinsing it was dried with a hair dryer and left for a few days under cover to ensure no moisture remained. Wearing latex gloves to keep the model clean when handling I masked the wheels using foil sweet wrappers. By cutting a 1.5 mm slot from the center to the edge of a piece of wrapper it can be slotted between the wheel, 'W' Iron and brake shoes before wrapping round the wheel. The brass parts were coloured with a black permanent marker pen and a couple of thin coats of Humbrol Dirty Black were applied with an airbrush to the under frame. This was then masked using Tamiya tape before the body was primed with Halfords white plastic primer....this really shows up the workmanship so some time was spent 'fettling' the model before 4 thin coats of BR Crimson were airbrushed on. The roof was sprayed dark grey before giving it a couple of coats of satin varnish. I cannot find any tranfers for it so it awaits their availability or until I feel like hand lettering it.
Final job is to complete the windows with 'Glue & Glaze' and paint the rear of the toilet window with matt white and touch of grey added to tone it down.
Job done. It won't win any prizes but it looks more like a real Horsebox than it used to and it's BR condition nicely explains why an Ex LNER wagon is running on Exeter central.
