https://www.northerntool.com/products/farm-tuff-utility-trailer-2200-lb-capacity-model-03813-125415
Order from Northern Tool - Takes 1-2 weeks to arrive
6.5 ft L x 4 ft W x 17" H --- Weight: 121lbs
MIG-welded frame adjusts from 4 ft L to 6.5 ft L
46" steel handle/tongue
4 ft W from outside tire to outside tire (32" between inside of tires)
4-ply wheels, 3/4" axle
Backordered: Estimated to ship 08/04/25 ($289.99)
Optional metal deck for Utility Trailer/Wagon
Comes in 3 sections of 2ft L x 4ft W
Stake bracket pockets in each section allow for easy installation of home made side racks
Comes complete with two sturdy support beams for easy mounting on the wagon
Customer comment: works great with the trailer and it adds some stiffness to the whole thing. on top of which its got grate holes in it so that makes it even better
Guide Gear Implement Lift System: https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/guide-gear-implement-lift-system?a=3028394
Photos of Cart Mods
Base for an incline carriage
I purchased this 2 years ago to use as a base of a downhill tram. It has had no problems at all. Because this cart had steering and plenty of strength, it made my conversion to a tram a lot easier than starting from scratch.
The photos show the initial assembled cart and then the final working tram. The most weight I have put in this cart is about 1000 lbs from hauling up some ash trees that died of ashbore beetles. Of course I added quite a bit of metal and electronics, so it weighs about 400 lbs.
Also, because it is a farm cart, the suspension allows all 4 wheels to stay on the ground regardless of the terrain. This tram is not used to transport people. It is only used for moving material.
It shows a steering wheel, but is actually remotely controlled by a linear actuator attached to the tongue of the cart. I am very satisfied with this farm cart.
From a customer review: This is a solid little wagon but there are a few design and build flaws that hurt the durability and performance. Fortunately, the defects can be fairly easily corrected.
1) Wheel bearings not properly assembled - knock them out, clean foreign material out of hubs and reinstall (straight and fully seated).
2) Welded seam tubing used to hold steering knuckles, knuckles loose fit - roll some brass shim stock around the king pins to act as bearings, the thickest that will fit to act as a bushing and keep the king pins off the welded seam.
3) Steering has no Ackerman geometry, doesn't turn sharply and loose, cheap tie rods - make a plate to bolt to the center steering arm that adds Ackerman and make new tie rods with adjustable clevis yokes on both ends. It took a bunch of calculating to get the plate right, but it was easy to make. Check the pictures. With the 3 fixes, I expect to get a lot of use out of it.
https://www.northerntool.com/products/farm-tuff-utility-trailer-2200-lb-capacity-model-03813-125415
TPRVA said: Only down side is if you make it long, it will have a large turning radius making it difficult to maneuver vs a regular trailer.
LiamX said: The only feature I'd like to see is a connection point that rotates or rolls. It does not side hill very well because it lacks an articulated joint. The hitch can only pivot up/down/left/right.
Van1111112222 said: I use a tow hitch without a ball and it fits the tow bar just fine.
amc283 said: The biggest thing was lining up the front wheels to the back wheels making it track straight, I had to have my Dad to help me with that part, I would have had a real struggle without him.
Robert58 said: Note that the tops of the front and rear cross bars (that hold the axles) are not level, but vary by about 9/16ths of an inch...not a big deal, but be aware of that if your application, like mine, requires a level platform. The assembly was very easy. This was a good value for the price. I am using it as the base for a mobile bar that when done, including kegs of beer, will weigh close to 1,500 pounds so I am hoping the 2,200 weight limit is accurate!
sr1957 said: This little trailer is stout, reliable and always at the ready. Ease in hooking up to the tractor and fun enough for a fall hayride. You'll love it's backing ability, just about turns itself. Tires always pass the kick test not to mention the possibilities on what you can haul. Protection in the paint will keep it looking like new for years. You won't go wrong on this gem.
countykid said: The farm tuff utility trailer became the base for a chicken tractor. Had to use a couple of 5 by 5's to get above the wheels, but then was able to build a 4 foot by 8 foot chicken coop on it. It pulls around easily with an ATV or lawn tractor. The small attachment tab in the back, allows me to pull the chicken run with the coop. It does not turn very sharp as the wheels have a stop, but I am very pleased with the trailer.
OpieTaylor said: What I like about them: -they are a good size for my operation -they are a reasonable cost -they use common wheel and tire combo -they can be linked like a train Drawbacks: -relatively low clearance -must use at least 5.5 inch spacing above the frame to clear the tires (I used 4x4 the first time and have since used a frame I make from 2x6) -connection to the frame you build on top of the metal frame is the weak link and the tabs and holes are small. I prefer to drill out the hole slightly and bolt on a 2x6.
Jerryg4570 said: I bought this wagon running gear to hold a 1200 pound standby generator. After assembling the frame I mounted two 4” wide-flange “I” beams 60” long to bolt the generator down to. What I discovered when I tried to move it with my little tractor is that the hitch is to small for a tractor drawbar and will not allow the tractor to turn. See picture with dimension. I thing I will have to replace this running with something more industrial that actually meets the 2000 pound class specification. I would recommend this running gear for only 500 to 1000 pound payload. Anything more and the frame will break ir bend. My front wheels are leaning in and the unit only traveled 40 feet.
BrentR said: As many have noted in reviews and YT videos, it doesn't come with washers for most nut and bolt fasteners, the frame brackets need to be turned around so the tires don't rub against your timber frame pieces and the wheels are full of tiny metal shot which was falling out. The wheels also come with useless grease fittings. Since each wheels comes with 2 sealed bearings there is absolutely no need to grease the wheels. The grease would only fill the cavity between the bearings, which offers zero benefit not need. During assembly, make sure to dial in the alignment on the steering linkage. It takes just a few minutes, but it's crucial for the wagon to operate correctly and handle the weight. I also highly suggest adding lock washers or nylon lock nuts and using Loctite in the fasteners to save you headaches down the road. Other than that, it's a decent trailer/wagon base. My boss needed one for around his house moving firewood, lawn furniture, gardening, etc. He wanted a simple build that was lightweight so I used pressure treated 5/4 2"x6"x8' for the deck and headboards, 2"x8"x8' and 2"x4" for the framing. I added a couple stake pockets to the front and back for removable headboards and 4 tie down D rings on each side.
115foxron said: The only negative is the wheel hub quality but for those that are mechanically inclined, they are very workable. To be specific, it is the bearings and grease fittings. The bearings are quite rough and the grease fittings were only finger tightened at best. Heavily greasing the bearings should give them as much life as I need as it is only a garden wagon and will never go over 6 mph with me and I doubt I'll ever pull it over a mile per year. The fittings are only used to grease the bearings and if I can not get them screwed tight, I'll replace with same thread sized screws after greasing. For me, not a big deal. Now for the good stuff. Yes, the frame isn't super heavy duty and is quite flexible with only a single tube connected the front asm. with the rear asm. but it works great for me. The frame is built strong enough to handle my loads and four small tabs to mount the wood top addition to complete it for using worked out great. Having a ready made frame saves a huge amount of time in building a very usable wagon.
It took me three days to complete the top asm with most of the time figuring out how I wanted to assemble it along with several trips to the local HD to get the pressure treated wood. I wanted the max size for my wagon so the tube was bolted together using the further most holes. I started my wood frame using a pair of pressure treated 2" x 6" x 8' beams mounted upright on the frame mounting tabs. Next I used 3 pressure treated 2" x 4" x 8' pieces cut in half to give me 6 cross members. I placed them on top of the main beams not in upright position. One in the front, one in the back and the other 4 placed relatively evenly in between. Finally I added 9 pieces of pressure treated 1 1/4" by 6" by 10' long deck planks lengthwise. Everything was fastened together with Stainless Steel deck screws. The actual deck size is 10' long by 51" wide. One of the pictures should give a reasonable view of the wood understructure to compare to the description above. I may add short (6" t o10" high) sides in the future, but for now I need it to move my fig tree plants out of the cold until the weather remains stable above freezing. This wagon sure beats trying to move large quantities of potted plants compared to a 16 cu. ft. 2-wheeled cart. It works so good, I may get another.
Redhairredhair said: We purchased this utility wagon to move wood piling and lumber materials for a 6 foot wide x 1 mile long boardwalk replacement project we are doing for the National Park Service. We load the wagon with about 1500 pounds of piling/lumber and move it via the new boardwalk as we progress. We started out just manually pulling the loaded wagon -- one person could pull it, but one pushing helped. As we construct the new boardwalk and get further away from the material staging area (about 1200 meandering feet right now) we have stopped manually pulling and pushing and now move the wagon with a small lawnmover. This wagon has made the job move quickly. It has a pretty tight turning raidus, even when extended to 79 inches. I assembled it in about an hour. I'm pretty sure that when we have completed the job the wagon will be toast, mostly from our abuse and the probably 1000 miles it will have on it, but it will have served its purpose for a very reasonable price. We had issues with the wheel bearings and keeping them greased and they finally went out. We replaced the wheel bearings with a perm. lube, enclosed type wheel bearings for about $8 each wheel and we were back in business. One of the holes in the frame where the angle tab mounting bracket botls to the lateral (that would support a vertical riser on all 4 corners) was not drilled all the way through both side of the frame tubing. A minor misfabrication. All in all - we are very pleased with this utility wagon and its performance on our project.
