-> HV Critical Alert
-> HV Critical Alert
-> Limp Mode
1. Limp Mode at Higher SoC (Without HV Critical Alert)
What it means: This is usually unrelated to the high-voltage battery pack.
Action: You may safely pull over and contact the service center.
2. Limp Mode at Lower SoC (Without HV Critical Alert)
What it means: Entering limp mode below 10% SoC is normal behavior for Tata EVs to protect the battery cell chemistry.
Action: If it triggers above 10% during your normal drive, try to charge the vehicle immediately. Be prepared for a potential HV Critical Alert or the transmission shifting automatically from Drive (D) to Neutral (N).
3. HV Critical Alert (Solid/Glowing, Not Blinking)
Action: Contact the service centre. There are two common underlying scenarios:
Contactor Welding Error: The vehicle may drive, but DC fast charging will likely fail to initiate.
Low Battery Isolation: Some fast chargers might reject the car completely, while others will significantly drop the charging speed to low power.
4. HV Critical Alert (Blinking)
What it means: This indicates a severe critical fault. The vehicle will likely lose all drive capability and refuse to shift out of Neutral.
Action: Immediately call Roadside Assistance (RSA) to tow the vehicle to a service centre. While waiting for RSA to arrive, you can try resetting the system by disconnecting and reconnecting the negative (-ve) terminal of the 12V auxiliary battery.
5. Automatically Shifting from Drive (D) to Neutral (N) While Driving
What it means: This indicates a serious system or powertrain fault. The vehicle's computer is dropping drive power to enter a failsafe mode to protect the high-voltage systems.
Action: Because you will lose all acceleration instantly, do not panic. Use the vehicle's remaining momentum to safely steer and coast to the shoulder or side of the road. Avoid braking suddenly, as slamming on the brakes will kill your momentum and leave you stranded in the middle of active traffic, making it impossible to safely navigate to the side.
Important Note on Recovery: Sometimes, the vehicle may function normally again after a full power cycle (restart) or after disconnecting and reconnecting the negative (-ve) terminal of the 12V auxiliary battery. However, treat this as a temporary fix—the issue is highly likely to recur, especially at a lower SoC. If you get the vehicle running again, proceed immediately to the nearest charging station or service center.
For the detailed version and all other charger troubleshooting, see: Detailed log
Key Action Steps:
Always push the gun forward first: Before attempting any unlocking procedure, firmly push the charging gun into the vehicle's charging socket to relieve mechanical tension on the locking pin.
The Door-Cycle Reset: Ensure all doors are fully locked. Open and firmly close the driver’s side door to reset the vehicle's interior switch state.
The Remote Key Fob Pattern: Use your remote key fob to perform this specific timing sequence:
Lock -> (wait 5 sec) -> Lock -> (wait 5 sec) -> Unlock -> (wait 5 sec) -> Unlock
Repeat & Release: Repeat this cycle 2 to 3 times. If your specific vehicle model is equipped with a physical charging gun unlock button near the dashboard/steering area, press it immediately after the sequence, then pull the gun out.
If it fails: If the gun remains stuck, push it back firmly into the car's socket to reset the latching mechanism, and run through the cycle once more. More details available as Emergency gun removal
If your vehicle door fails to unlock, it is typically due to one of two reasons:
A malfunctioning or dead key fob.
A drained 12V auxiliary (low-voltage) battery.
How to troubleshoot:
Manual Entry: Even if the remote key is unresponsive, you can extract the hidden mechanical key from the fob to unlock the door manually.
Check the Electronics: Once inside, test the electrical components. If the horn sounds weak, the cabin lights are dead, or the headlight throw is dim, the issue is a drained 12V auxiliary battery.
Isolate the Fob: If all other vehicle electronics are working perfectly, the issue is strictly with your key fob (such as a dead button cell battery).
For the detailed version and all other charger troubleshooting, see: LV battery (12V Aux battery) related issue
Troubleshooting EVSE Earth Leakage Fault (Simple version):
Turn OFF the EVSE.
Remove the charging gun from the vehicle.
Turn ON the EVSE and check if the initial green status light comes on.
Now, either plug it directly into the car, or turn the EVSE off, plug it in, and turn the EVSE back on.
The Verdict: If it shows the error before connecting to the car, it’s an EVSE/earthing fault. If it shows the error only after connecting, the fault could be with either the charger or the vehicle itself.
For the detailed version and all other charger troubleshooting, see: EVSE Related Issues