Stages

Day zero

Off to camiño espiritual tomorrow...It's a variant of the Portuguese coastal route. I am only starting in Caminha, PT, with a boat journey to cross Minho river to Galicia. Need to wake up at 5am to be there on time (travelling by car + train). Three long days to start with (always over 30km) and then regular stages (no more than 25km) ...Planning to do it (no more than 200km I think) in 7 days. Camera packed, no laptop this time, and with Ana from the 3rd day onwards. Rui, one of my camiño friends, is walking almost at the same time from Ferrol, and we should meet on the last day in Santiago. That should be cool! Wheather looks bad, so plenty of rain gear prepared. As usual, please leave the group if you haver other (better) things to do (sure you have), or just ignore my messages. My promise: only one message at the end of each day, and only one photo. You can react if you wish, but as the group is big (25 for now) no messages allowed! Just to be sustainable. Till tomorrow, J.

Day 1, Caminha-Baiona, 38km

Not a good idea to have such a long first day, especially considering I got the boat crossing river Minho at 8:30, and time changed on the other side (+1 hour). Thus, I started late. Breaking the stage didn't appeal to me (2 x 19km) and also my time is limited.  I was expecting clouds and perhaps even some rain,  but the day was very sunny and hot.  I have no sun glasses,  no hat, and no sun block.  Inexperienced pilgrim? Stage is beautiful as it goes along the sea, despite many km on the shoulder of a busy road. I tried to go on smaller paths near the water, but ended up in muddy fields and going over beach rocks.  Nice,  but not possible to do it for many kilometres.  There are a good few pilgrims around,  but still possible to walk alone without seeing anyone.  Staying in a busy albergue. As it's Sunday,  there are many people in town. Still, because it's Sunday, there are no supermarkets open.  Not sure if I have the energy to go very far today, but I feel I am ready for any stage by tomorrow. Photo is what I consider to be the most representative landscape of the day....stone walls, sea views, small path...

Day 2, Baiona-Chapela, 36km.

Another long day, and this time, under rain, heavy at times. A lot happened....yesterday late afternoon I fell coming down of the top bunk bed! Bunk beds were crap, shaky and almost with no place to hold when coming down. At the same time I was really tired and I am no longer young...so I feel on top of a pilgrim! Female and young of course....she was fine despite the scare and I hurt my left foot a little.  So, today was tough, as I walked slowly, using the walking stick as my crutch!! The night was crap...too many turigrinos...young guys going for dinner at 10pm and coming back after midnight making loads of noise....others who walked 15km that day were happy and energetic in the kitchen, also making a casino,  as Italians say! So, got up at 6, as I was doing nothing in bed! The way is quite nice, and I walked along many sandy beaches, despite heavy rain at times. But I was the slowest pilgrim in Galicia at least. By 2pm and after 26,5km I got to our fancy hotel at the entry of Vigo, near the port. So I checked in, had a bath, did all the laundry, and left. Had lunch and continued for 10km. Now I am waiting for Ana who is driving from Portugal, and we'll go back to the hotel. Tomorrow we'll leave the car here in Chapela, and the walk should not go over 30km, which is decent for Ana's first day. I have to mind my foot tonight but all I have is body lotion. Should do the trick!

Day 3, Chapela-Pontevedra, 31,2km

Long day, the first away from the sea, and into the Galician rias. Rain, sun, cold breeze and warm sunshine...we got it all. We talked to many pilgrims today...many Spanish, but most Portuguese. Nice stories...mundane camiño stories, of blisters and pains, of tortillas and albergues....spoke briefly to a Spanish pilgrim who is 81, walking alone. Brave...we know we won't see these pilgrims tomorrow as we are making the turn to the espiritual route...good and bad! Ana managed the long stage, but the real test will be tomorrow as we'll go up the mountain to a monastery....tired now and busy with pilgrim stuff (laundry, rest, food, sleep...)

Day 5, Armenteira-Villanova de Arousa, 25,5 km.

Yesterday we got what is for sure the highlight of this camiño - visperas (evenning prayer), sang by the nuns of the monastry. Quite intimate session, which reminded me of the one in Oseira Monastry, camiño Sanabres (remember Rui?). In Oseira, mass was sang by 6-7 monks, and it was freezing cold. Yesterday, there were 7 nuns and two priests, and it was wonderful. Night was rough, with too many snorers, so we were tired all day. In the first part of the morning it was dry and it was beautiful.  We walked down a small river with cascades and lush vegetation. We spoke to 2 ladies from New Zealand,  and they were saying it was just like being home!! We stoped in a really nice taberna, where mostly men, but also some woman, drank red wine (verde tinto in Portuguese) from big bowls and ate octopus. We got the 🐙 with aquarius, and it was great. The place had no pilgrim stamp, which is always a good sign. To go to the toilet we had to go through a garage where a really cool Fiat 600 from the 1960s was parked....nice! Now in Villanova de Arousa there are some pilgrims around, but not too many. Its raining like heel, so everyone is inside! We avoided the Spanish/Chinese kids when we saw them and were very happy to see they're not staying here - a small pension called Casa Rosa!! Now some time to rest, and find food. Today and tomorrow is festivo - holiday,  so shops and supermarkets are closed!!

Day 6, Vilanova de Arousa-Picareña, 39,5km.

Lashing rain today, but don't you think we walked this much in this weather.  The first 26km were on a boat, in the ria and up river Ulla as far as Pontecesures. Allegedly that's how Santiago travelled,  on a barca, as far as Padrón. With the rain we couldn't see much from the boat, apart from the occasional crosses on the river bank (there are 12 places with crosses). There was a huge crowd travelling with us (maybe 50?), as basically everyone who is doing espiritual follows the translatio tradition, and takes the barca. Only a few walk this stage along the river (I have cycled it in reverse last summer and it is nothing special). There was free coffee/tea, juice and cake, and the spirits were certainly higher than when the remains of Santiago were travelling up river. Due to the tides, there were only boats at 8am and 9am. Next week,  only at 6am and 7am, so we were lucky! We only walked 13km after disembarking in Pontecesures, and as we've walked this before it was only a matter of arriving before lunch. Best part of a shity pilgrim 's menu was the bottle of wine 🍷 mixed with gasosa (7up style of drink) which contributed heavily to my afternoon nap. I woke up with the rain,  thinking of those who continued to Santiago and were surely absolutely soaked. Hope tomorrow is not as wet as today. (Ana' photo from Padrón's church.- I missed the image)

Day 7, Picareña-Santiago, 16,4km.

No stories today, really. Last night I went out for a drink, in a nearby bar/cafeteria/restaurant.  Not great,  the bar, the wine or the atmosphere ...I think pilgrims were all in bed, as it was the only open bar. We walked fast today,  under a lot of rain. Almost no photos.  Did not even take my camera out from the backpack. In a cafe we spoke to a nice man, 85 years old, and quite curious about our journey.  Born in Galicia, in Tui, just on the border with Portugal, he lived 35 years in Stockholm,  and was happily telling me his car journeys from Galicia to Sweden. More than 10, he said. Memorable moments. In Santiago we met Rui, who was just arriving from camiño ingles...perfect timing!! So...that's it folks...after 210km (26km on a boat), that's time to go home (actually now on a blablacar already to Vigo)...we should be in Guimarães later tonight!! Thanks for all the reactions during these days! Bo camiño!