The matched elements will be hidden immediately, with no animation. This is roughly equivalent to calling .css( "display", "none" ), except that the value of the display property is saved in jQuery's data cache so that display can later be restored to its initial value. If an element has a display value of inline and is hidden then shown, it will once again be displayed inline.
When a duration, a plain object, or a "complete" function is provided, .hide() becomes an animation method. The .hide() method animates the width, height, and opacity of the matched elements simultaneously. When these properties reach 0, the display style property is set to none to ensure that the element no longer affects the layout of the page.
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As of jQuery 1.4.3, an optional string naming an easing function may be used. Easing functions specify the speed at which the animation progresses at different points within the animation. The only easing implementations in the jQuery library are the default, called swing, and one that progresses at a constant pace, called linear. More easing functions are available with the use of plug-ins, most notably the jQuery UI suite.
Note: This method may cause performance issues, especially when used on many elements. If you're encountering such issues, use performance testing tools to determine whether this method is causing them. Moreover, this method can cause problems with responsive layouts if the display value differs at different viewport sizes.
Tanning hides is something that I have always wanted to master. Tanning is an art. In the past I have tanned a few rabbit hides and many ground squirrel hides but never something so large as a cow hide. If your new to tanning hides then I do not recommend that you start with a cow hide. It is labor intense. When a cow hide is wet it becomes extremely heavy and is hard to work with. I probably spent at least twenty hours to complete this cow hide and it took days upon days to actually finish it.
I want to be able to create a page and keep certain parts, which are not yet final for viewing, hidden to continue working on later. I could, as a work-around, keep this parts in another page which is not online. But with multiple pages, where certain parts are in progress, this can become complicated.
Yes. go into the html view mode. at the point where you want to hide content, use the html comment start of to stop the comment. This will keep the information from displaying. Of course the students could always look at the page content in their browser and see the information that way (if they were so inclined or curious enough).
Hi ! I need to come back to this because using to comment out certain parts does not seem to be a fix for my issue. Using this code not only hides the content between these tags but deletes the content between those tags. It seems that when the HTML editor encounters these tags it removes the content in between. If you save the HTML editing and review the code again with the HTML editor, the code is completely removed.
And many times we can discuss with the police officer and the prosecutor a resolution of the case that minimizes the negative consequences to you and can even avoid you having to attend the court hearing.
After many requests, I will now post my method of curing an alligator hide for one's personal use and display. This method has been used on many alligators taken by Team Amos Moses and has worked great for the display of the gator hides. It is not a professional method, but has worked for me. I have constructed this method by reading everything that I could find about curing a gator hide. Please feel free to ask me questions about it, but realize I am simply an outdoorsman like the rest of you, and that I am not a professional taxidermist.
First, you MUST make preparations for curing your gator hide prior to beginning the process. Several have commented on this forum how to preserve a hide after skinning a gator. The hide can be stored in this manner until you are ready to begin the curing process.
I have never stored a hide by rolling in salt and freezing. I have always had everything ready to begin the curing process before the hunt, and I begin immediately after killing the gator.
After checking in our gator, we immediately ice the gator down before going to bed. The next day, we skin the gator using the "horn-back" method. An incision is made down the center of the ventral side of the gator from the chin down through the end of the tail. The gator is then carefully skinned. The feet can be left on the gator hide by making a cut from the center of the foot straight to the center cut on the belly side. Care must be taken to remove all of the bones and meat from the feet. Cut the toes off of the toe bone at the last joint and toe nail will remain on the hide. Care must be taken to remove ALL of the tail bone. Remove as much meat from the hide, especially from the tail and the back under the thick hide and scutes.
After skinning is complete, remove the meat, bag and store.
At this point, I take a pressure washer and GENTLY wash the flesh side of the hide. You CAN tear the hide if not careful! This is a very simple way to completely flesh your hide to remove almost 100% of the remaining flesh.
We take a barrel with us to create a brine solution to place the hide in. We mix 25 gallons of water, 50 pounds of salt, 1 pound of Borax, and 1 pint of bleach. Mix thoroughly using a boat paddle. It is tough to get 50 pounds of salt dissolved into solution but it can be done. Salt the hide with a 1/2 inch of salt and roll tightly. Tie the hide with large rubber bands or pieces of inner tube like you use to tie a gator's mouth with. Place into brine solution. The salt will wick the brine solution up into the hide and help with the preservation process. I leave it in this solution for a week or more.
When you are ready to tan the hide, you must time the remainder of the process to fit your schedule.
Remove the hide from the brine solution, unroll it, and wash it with a hose to remove all of the old salt. Pour out the brine solution and start over with the next solution. Make a solution using Lutan-F and salt. Lutan-F is a powder that can obtained from many taxidermy supply sites. Add 1.5 ounces of Lutan-F per gallon and 10 ounces of salt per gallon. I usually mix up 10 gallons for one hide, but had to mix 15 gallons for a bigger gator hide. Completely immerse the hide in this solution. Make sure the hide is completely covered by the solution. You may need to place a weight on the hide to keep it under the solution. THE HIDE MUST COME OUT BETWEEN 24 AND 48 HOURS!!! When you are ready to remove hide, add a small amount of sodium acetate to the solution, stir, and let sit for 90 minutes. Remove the hide and wash thoroughly with a hose. Allow it to drain for 30 minutes or so. Apply warm (I set it out in the sun) True-Tan Reptile Tanning Oil to the flesh side. Rub it in thoroughly. Lay the hide on a sheet of plywood flesh side down. Bigger gators may take two or three sheets laid together to make it fit. Start at the tail and begin nailing the hide down to the plywood. Stretch it as you go. Use 1 inch galvanized finishing nails that can easily be removed after the hide is dry. Place a nail close to the edge of the hide through every other scale. Stretch the feet and legs out at the angle you want them on the display. I cut the excess hide off to make a perfectly flat mount. I stretch the extra pieces out and nail them down as well. I use these for jewelry and such. Once the hide is completely stretched out and nailed down, rub oil on the scale side of the hide. Place a fan blowing over the hide and let it sit for a month or two. It will take this long to completely dry the hide.
Once dry, pull the nails, and place the hide on a board you want to use for permanent display. Nail the hide to the board using either aluminum or brass nails. DO NOT USE anything with iron in it. It will rust. Stainless steel carpet tacks DO NOT WORK. The hide will rust the nails over time and you will have a mess. I know...I got one right now.
I hope this helps. Like I said, it has worked for me.
Gatorman
Team Amos Moses
I simply want to setup Emacs GUI to toggle (hide/show) visibility just like we see in guake, tilda or yakuake terminals(it is called drop down in these terminals). for example I am working with Emacs within the GUI and I have a browser window behind it, I want to hide Emacs GUI with a shortcut(e.g F12) and then see my browser (with focus) interact with or any other window, then again press F12 and I will have my Emacs GUI back(I am running KDE 5.13). Also if you know how to do this in XFCE or gnome please share your knowledge.
Bit late but wanted to post an answer here that isn't KDE or gnome specific but instead relies on two apps that interact with the underlying display server/window managers (i.e. X11 or Wayland) to get the the job done.
If you don't want 2 and 4 you can use xdotool alone, I just wanted to more closely emulate the behaviour of Guake terminal's show/hide behaviour, hence using wmctrl to bring and show the GUI application to the currently active desktop.
This is a one off post describing a great morning spent with friends at a birding hide at the outskirts of the Karnala bird sanctuary in Maharashtra in October 2022 with the aim to see and take decent photos of the brightly coloured Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher. The Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher or ODKF to birders ( Also called the three toed / black backed kingfisher), is a small but brightly coloured bird that breeds in the forests along the Konkan Coast in Maharashtra in the monsoon months of July to September. This is the best time to spot this otherwise difficult to see species as they stay within a certain radius of the nest and bring food for the hatchlings which makes for great photos. 589ccfa754
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