You can tune your electric guitar with a microphone or by ear. Tuning the guitar automatically with a microphone is much easier, faster, and is our recommended option. However, tuning your instrument by ear will improve your musical ear in the long term, and can be a valuable skill to learn for the moments when you are not online.

To tune your electric guitar automatically:

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Chromatic: The first is chromatic. These tuners compare the input signal to one of the 12 notes in the chromatic scale. This means they are limited to only these notes, as well as only tuning one note at a time. For most players, neither of those limitations is likely to be an issue.

Polyphonic: The second type of tuner is polyphonic. Just as with pitch-shifters or synths, 'polyphonic' simply means that the tuner can process multiple notes at once. The downside, of course, is that this is harder to show to the user. They can be incredibly useful live, however, as you can strike all the strings to see if everything lights up green.

Strobe: The final type of tuner is the strobe tuner. Unlike the chromatic tuner, the strobe tuner can be set to custom frequencies and temperaments. This is very useful for players that play music outside of standard Western scales. It can also be useful for experimenting with different pitch standards, like basing around 432Hz instead of 440Hz. Though this sounds esoteric, Soundgarden's smash Black Hole Sun used 432Hz and many artists favor the standard. Strobe tuners are typically the most expensive and specialist of the three.

Microphone tuner (free-$/10): As these small, usually cheap tuners use a microphone for their input, they're flexible in terms of what source they can take. Great if you need to tune up many stringed instruments - but the trade-off is that they're susceptible to interference from background noise. When we were coming up, these were usually dedicated hardware boxes, but nowadays, they're just as likely to be an app on your phone.

Clip-on ($/5-30): Clip-on guitar tuners attach to the headstock of the instrument and work via detecting vibrations. As a result, they can be very efficient in battery use, as well as small. The accuracy of clip-ons like the TC Polytune Clip and Unitune is now good enough that we've seen them used in professional studios, mostly due to their convenience. They can be kept near to hand, or scattered around so there's always a tuner within reach for when that great idea arrives.

Stompbox tuner ($/50+): The third type is the stompbox. These take a standard 1/4\" jack input to operate. This means that they will only work with electric guitars, basses, and ukuleles, or acoustic instruments with a pickup. In terms of signal path, this stompbox should normally go first in your signal chain, as it can be used to mute the guitar when in use. However, due to the use of buffers in many tuners, some players prefer to keep it out of the audio path. There are effect pedals with a dedicated tuner out so you can split your signal into a tuner mid-chain. This generally has been our preference, and means the tuner can be left 'always on.'

Rackmount tuner ($/100+): The final type of tuner, usually found on professional touring rigs is the rackmount tuner. The main advantage of a rackmount tuner is the increased surface area which means you can get a far more accurate view of your guitar's tuning. The size is also a limitation, however, as it'll take up a lot of room on your pedalboard. If you already have a rackmount setup or you want one for your studio, then the rackmount tuner is the ultimate guitar tuner when it comes to accuracy.

Increasingly, new players are turning to microphone-using apps rather than dedicated hardware tuners. Although they can be useful for tuning an acoustic in a hurry, for practicing or concert use these are insufficient. Background noise and ergonomics mean that the microphone often can't get an accurate input. Besides, having an 'always on' option on the floor is far more reliable when you need it.

Does any of this really matter? Is it a problem if your guitar tuner is fixed at A=440Hz? For most guitarists probably not. However, if you have any classical pieces in your repertoire that you play within an ensemble, you may find that your fellow musicians prefer to tune to an older, more authentic standard.

The rising popularity of music for meditation and wellness means that another standard is becoming increasingly common too. Many in the New Age fraternity believe that A=432Hz is better cosmically attuned to the universe, so should be used in place of A=440Hz. The upshot of this is that many singing bowls, chimes, and so on are tuned to the 432Hz standard, which makes accompanying them on a guitar tricky unless you can tune down with accuracy.

Stompbox tuner ($/50+): The third type is the stompbox. These take a standard 1/4" jack input to operate. This means that they will only work with electric guitars, basses, and ukuleles, or acoustic instruments with a pickup. In terms of signal path, this stompbox should normally go first in your signal chain, as it can be used to mute the guitar when in use. However, due to the use of buffers in many tuners, some players prefer to keep it out of the audio path. There are effect pedals with a dedicated tuner out so you can split your signal into a tuner mid-chain. This generally has been our preference, and means the tuner can be left 'always on.'

I don't pretend to know - but I've read in a few places that the idea of cutting a rectangle out of the side of a guitar to put in a tuner and/or controls for the onboard electronics may start getting phased out. 0852c4b9a8

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