Electric chainsaws seem to be a natural area of interest for anyone who rides an electric trials bike. They are perfect for building sections and maintaining trails. Advantages are: much quieter operation, minimal vibration, no pull-starting, and no fumes.
They won't completely replace my ICE chainsaw, which is still the go-to choice for big jobs. But being mindful of their limitations, they are extremely convenient for a wide variety of tasks.
The biggest disadvantage is that they are considered throwaway items with zero availability of electrical parts.
My first encounter with an electric “chainsaw” was the corded Black+Decker LP1000 Alligator. You can see how it got the nickname Alligator in the photo below. It works a bit like a pair of scissors.
It was rated at 4.5 amps. Running on 120 VAC puts it in the neighborhood of 540 watts (3/4 horsepower).
It's the safest type of saw I can imagine that uses a chain. My wife loved it for cleaning up deadfall in the yard. It worked fabulously well, but the cord was a nuisance.
Black+Decker LP1000
Alligator jaws
Our next acquisition was a battery-powered Alligator, the B+D LLP120. It uses a small 20-volt, 1.5 Ah Li-ion pack which provides surprisingly-long runtime. But best of all, it can be carried in a backpack for trail maintenance while riding a trials bike. This was far superior to the bow saw I had been using for such tasks.
Most chainsaws have an incontinence problem — some bar oil leaks out regardless of orientation when it's stored. So, depending on your point of view, the lack of an oil reservoir may be a plus or minus. You are supposed to drip oil into a fill-hole every 10 minutes or so. This is not convenient while working out on the trail, so I do it every battery swap. I suppose 10 minutes of actual cutting time is about as long a battery lasts, but it really depends on the age of the tree. Green wood cuts easily, as does rotten wood, but anything in-between takes a lot more time to cut.
My first real electric chainsaw was a Greenworks CS80L01 with a 16" bar. You can see it in the header photo. There's no mention of it being brushless, so I assume it has brushes (never had it apart to check). It's rated 1.8 kW. It is uncomplicated and very light, so you can easily hike with it. My only negative comment is that it lacks any type of soft-start capability. There's a bit of a delay after pulling the trigger, and then it roars to life at full speed.
Honestly, I expect the low-tech brushed motor is going to have better long-term reliability than the newer brushless models simply because there are fewer electronic parts to fail.
Credit: Stihl, MS250 engine parts
Speaking of electronic parts, their complete lack of availability is a huge drawback to going electric. This trend really makes me sad and angry.
Manufacturers will probably claim it is a “safety thing”, but ICE chainsaws can be mis-assembled too.
The adjacent screenshot is a sample page from the Stihl parts book. I imagine Husqvarna parts are also available.
Although a piston or crankshaft may be expensive, it is available. In fact, every part is.
You can't say that about a motor or controller (or any electrical part for that matter) for electric outdoor power equipment.