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It has been stuck for a few weeks, and I'm scared to put too much pressure on it because I don't want to break either lens or camera body. Should I go to a camera shop to see if they can do anything, or should I buy a new body for all my other lenses?

I have a Nikon and had a teleconverter get stuck on a D800 body. Think of the camera lying on its back with the lens pointed at the ceiling. On Nikons, there is a small pin that extends upward from the body into a slot on the lens that keeps the lens from rotating. The release button retracts the pin. If the pin breaks off of the retraction mechanism, it can be stuck up in the lens, the lens cannot rotate out of its bayonet connection so is stuck. But the lens itself is not stuck -- heating or turning harder will do no good, the PIN is stuck.

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With that specific setup, there are a few possible DIY repairs. One is to literally sit the body and lens as described, rotate gently back and forth, and the pin may fall back into the body by gravity. In my case it would not, but there was a small rubber gasket around the lens-to-body attachment, and if lifted up (e.g. a small screw driver) you could see the pin physically going up into the lens. In my case I took a needle (literally a sewing needle) and poked the pin near the lens, pushed down, and repeated over and over. It moved just hundredths of an inch each time, but after a few movements, it came loose, fell into the camera - lens came off. THe camera had to go back for repair anyway as the pin was broken, but I could keep using the lens (well, teleconverter in this case). However, I looked at some other lenses and the pin was not visible, so even in my Nikon case this varies by lens.

You need to know for your particular camera how the lock mechanism works, to know if a similar solution is possible. However, regardless, it is quite likely that even if you get the lens off, either the mount or the lens will need repair. While remotely possible it is a case with simply too tight of a connection, it is more likely that the locking mechanism has broken in some way, and so even if you separate them, you will need a repair. Either the next lens will get stuck (or not lock) on your body or the same lens will get stuck (or not lock) on a different body.

Almost never is the solution more pressure. I have yet to see a DSLR that had very tight connections - all I have seen have some locking mechanism, and usually that breaks to cause this. You may have an exception, but I would bet against it. In other words, the simplest may be to send/take it in for repair with the lens attached, as you are likely to end up there anyway.

I had a similar problem: I basically had to force my camera lens off the body. It was a bit of a risk because I could have broken my camera and my lens. Fortunately it worked. After looking at my camera lens mount, I noticed one of the screws was loose. I tightened that bad boy up, and the problem was solved. I do however agree with @Linwood's answer. It is probably a better idea to take it to the shop.

The autofocus on my Canon 18-55mm is malfunctioning and I'm afraid it may be broken.

All the internet research I've done points to issues electronic, but I believe this to be mechanical simply because of the noise it makes. With the lens set to AF, it does nothing, but makes a slight whirring sounds as if the camera is trying to, but can't focus the lens. In MF, turning the focus ring makes soft clicking sounds.

The autofocus works fine on the other lens I have.

The lens has not been dropped. I take really, REALY good care of my stuff! Any other recommendations or bits of advice are much appreciated!

amphoto1 makes some very valid points, and it does sound like it could be the motor in the lens. We have found that sometimes we're able to remedy this without a costly repair, but it is a multi-stepped process.

Hopefully this solves your problems, and you never have to worry about it again! With my personal lenses that are not USM or STM, I always store and transport them with the AF/MF switch in the MF position. This disengages the focusing motor and prevents any accidental damage to the auto focusing motor.

Sorry, but it sounds as if the AF is broken or worn out. The "clicking noises" do suggest a mechanical failure. But to be sure, if possible, try the lens on a different camera to see if it works properly. Also, carefully clean the lens-to-camera contacts on the rear of the lens. Just use a clean, lint free rag lightly dampened with a couple drops of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Also operate the AF on/off switch a dozen times or so... those switches are usually "self cleaning". If for any reason they get some oxidization or dirt inside, operatiing them will clean them.

To be honest, I don't have much hope that any of the above will "fix" the lens, because the noises suggest it's trying to AF, but failing. But it's easy and doesn't cost anything to try any of the above.

If none of the above helps, you can look into repair, but unless it's still under warranty it might be more cost effective to simply replace with a new lens. Depending upon which version of 18-55mm yours is, a newer one or some other lens alternatives might be a nice upgrade anyway.

But first, a common reason the AF system gets damaged is manually overriding the auto focus of a micro motor lens without first turning the AF off at the switch. Canon warns not to do that with their micro motor lenses. On the other hand, their STM (stepper motor) and USM (ultrasonic) lenses both will tolerate manual override of AF without need to first turn it off. So, if yours is the micro motor version (i.e., it doesn't say STM on the lens... there is no USM version 18-55) and you weren't careful about turning off AF before focusing manually, this might have been the cause of the problem.

Currently there are two versions of that lens offered: EF-S 18-55 IS II sells for about $200 and EF-S IS STM costs about $50 more. You'll have to compare the cost of repairing the one you have, with these prices. But I also believe both current 18-55s are optically improved from the earlier version. In addition, the STM has improved AF performance (faster, smoother, quieter), a non-rotating front barrel (preferable if using filters such as polarizers), and tolerates manual focus override.

I recently took my 2 rebel xt and xti bodies out of storage. They had been unused for several years. They will both auto focus in only the Basic Zone modes (portrait, sports, etc.) However, neither will auto focus in any of the Creative modes (M, Av,Tv, etc.) I have tried switching lenses and still have the problem. I have tried moving the focus swithes on and off numerous times and rotating the focus rings back and forth. The problem remains. Anyone have ideas on what might be going on and options for a fix?

Hi Julius, I'm experiencing marcosochoa's exact issues except my lens doesn't make any clicking noises. When it's on AF it does sound like it's trying to focus but it doesn't manage to. I've tried your suggestion without any luck. Do you have any other advice?

I have an old film SLR camera (Canon EOS Elan 7E) with a handful of Canon EF lenses - got when my now college age child was born. Rather than have the lenses collecting dust in my closet, I was considering getting a Canon DSLR body but I don't know if the lenses would still be compatible. I apologize if the answer is obvious but should I assume these 20-year old lenses are or are not compatible with a current DSLR

If the old lenses have no electronics, then you will not get auto focus. I use a 45 year old Minolta ROKKOR 50mm F/1.4 lens on my EOS R5 attached with an URTH adapter. I find it much more pleasing than a new EF 50mm. The mirrorless camera highlights edges that are in focus making manual focus easy.

I suggest trying the lenses and looking at the results. It is possible to rent a camera from lensrentals before deciding. All of my old lenses work better with my new camera than they did with the camera they were originally purchased for. New lens designs might work better if one wishes to spend money.

I made this photo as an experiment with two stacked extenders. The Canon DPP software was able to do digital lens optimization for the lens, but not for the third party extenders. The image is softer than a modern lens would produce, but that is partly because it is F/16 and has diffraction blur as well as blur from the two cheap third party extenders.

I agree if they are older off brand lenses I.E., Sigm, Tamron, etc., they probably are not worth the effort. Even old FD lenses can be used on a new DSLR but most are not worth the effort, time nor money to do so.

A digital single-lens reflex camera (digital SLR or DSLR) is a digital camera that combines the optics and the mechanisms of a single-lens reflex camera with a solid-state image sensor and digitally records the images from the sensor. 006ab0faaa