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We currently do not have a Pmod IP core for the TMP2. I would suggest that you use the TMP3 IP core to get an I2C connection going. From the TMP3 drivers, only the TMP3_begin, TMP3_IICInit, TMP3_ReadIIC, and TMP3_WriteIIC functions should be used, as these interact directly with a generic IIC controller. From there, review the ADT7420 data sheet to determine the correct way to configure the device and grab data. Page 13 of this data sheet contains the register map of the device, of these registers, the most important will be the temperature registers (0x00,0x01) and the status (0x02) and config (0x03) registers. Reading the higher-level functions of the TMP3 drivers might give you a decent idea of how to use the Read/WriteIIC functions.

I own the 11.5* and had it paired with a VA Slay 55 four. Had a gapping session recently and I hit it 245-250 carry with total being around 260-265. Had one hit 283 total. Spin dead smack at 2500-2700. I tend to have a neg AOA. Around 2-3. With mini it was average 2.8 down. This has been my issue with the big stick which is why I can't hit it so good and my results are same as mini. But mini I am fairway or just in rough. Normal driver I am in deep rough, trees, or even worse OB.

The Original One, for me, was a very low spin head. That worked with my swing but might not be for everyone. Results were very close to my standard driver, in part because the lower spin gave me more roll than driver, despite the loft differences.

I ultimately abandoned the mini clubs because I was hitting driver well and I was crushing my Titleist TS3 13.5 fairway. But in retrospect, I wish I had kept the 13.5 mini -- that extra size is a lot more confidence-inspiring off the tee than the standard fairway wood.

If you are OK sacrificing 10-15 yards in order to hit more fairways, the mini is a great driver replacement (or something to swap in on short or tight courses). And if you like your driver but want another option off the tee that gives you more size and pop than a standard 3 wood, the mini makes a great 1B tee club. But if you count on using 3w a lot off the fairway, it's probably not the best option.

Thanks for bringing this thread back up. I suspect that could be the case with me. I didn't end up bringing a TMOO in to start this season - stuck with a Cally Rogue 10.5 set to 11.5 deg, at 45.75". But I'm finding I hit my 43.5" 15 deg 3-wood almost as long as the driver when I button it.

That is what I think. The big heads just are harder to close the clubface because the mass extends so far from the shaft. That is why many people are more accurate with the mini-driver. I'm waiting for them to design a center-shafted driver, so it is easier to square up the clubface. Sort of joking, but not really. ?

For some. Its all about what your comfortable and confident looking at down by the ball. I went from an r11, to an M2, to a Ping G410, to a Tsi4 driver, and could not get along with any of them until the Tsi4. Longer than any of them for me, doesn't spin off of the planet, and is easy to keep in the fairway. Thing is point and shoot for me. Can't hit big chunky irons for s***, same goes with a big, clunky 460 driver

I have both OO 11.5 and 13.5. On a lauuch monitor (I have SwingCaddie which works fine, very accurate, even compared with a trackman, but this is another topic), The 13.5 GETS better distance because it flies a little higher. Both Drivers produce a lower flight than you would expect. If your swing speed is in the 85-90 MPH with a Driver, you will not get the maximum distance with the 11.5 deg. These drivers are very low spin and if you mishit them, the ball falls like a knuckle ball. The center of gravity is forward and it is a low spinning Driver. Stay with the 13.5 if your drive is around 210-220, roll included. As a side note, if you hit them on the toe or on the heel, you will find that the OO is not as forgiving as a regular Driver. However, since the shaft is 43.75 '', it is much easier to find the center of the clubface more often, and therefore, you get more distance. When i compared my best hit with a Titleist TSI1 and TSI2 Drivers, I came up with: TSI1 carry 204 Y total 227 yards (same with TSI2 but lower filght)

I had the 11.5 as a primary driver for awhile. Then decided to sell it (worst decision I've ever made) because I was hitting my Ping g410 plus just as straight, but further. The thing was a rocket and went so straight. I put a 44" shaft in it and it went consistently 280-290 yards. But I wanted more distance (I'm greedy).

away course: 6700 yards, links-ish with a few trees here and there. Used driver primarily on tee boxes. A few lay up par 4s where an iron is smart play. Really only needed to use the OO once off the tee in lieu of a driver, and I used it a second time just to give it a go again. I did miss having my 3W for a low running punch out but had no need for a long fairway shot. Verdict: would rather have the versatility of the 3W here.


The Zaph Audio ZA5 Family is a collection of speaker kits using the ZA14W08 woofer and the Vifa DQ25SC16-04 tweeter. These drivers and subsequent kits represent fantastic performance at a very attractive price. Detailed information on the Zaph ZA14W08 woofer and ZA5 kits can be found on the Zaph Audio website.

Every time a print job is sent to the device, it either spools it, or if spooling is disabled it tries to print it. But when it does this it adds the job to the queue and then it seems to delete it. No jobs have been successful in the last few days. I have restarted the spooler, disabled and re enabled the LPT port it uses, restarted the computer, turned the device off and on... The device has not been using a manufacturers driver in order to print; it has been using some sort of windows default driver. If anyone has some ideas as to solving this problem, I would be very grateful.

Compared to the original Carbonwood, Stealth 2 features nearly twice the amount of carbon. It is constructed using a new Carbon Reinforced Composite Ring and collectively utilizes more of the lightweight material than any driver in TaylorMade history. Our advanced application of carbon allows for the redistribution of mass for more forgiveness and stability.

1) In Windows 98 i've Installed Voodoo 5 6000 drivers after Voodoo1/2 driver. In device manager i have no errors or warnings, Voodoo 5 control panel works just fine, but Voodoo1/2 CP is not availble. For me it is not a problem, because i do not using Voodoo1/2 in Windows.

2) For DOS i have created special BOOT folder with all required drivers and utilites for DOS. This folder contains 3dfx subfolder which in turn contains Voodoo1, Voodoo2, Voodoo3, Voodoo5 subfolders with it's own Glide2x.dll, Glide2x.ovl, Glide3x.dll and fxmemmap.vxd if availble. Then i have created SwitchVoodoo# batch file (sv#.bat, where # is Voodoo number, for Voodoo 3 - sv3.bat), that automaticly clearing WINDOWS\SYSTEM folder and copying files that needed for current Voodoo hardware and Glide program.

3) If necessary, i'm copying Glide drivers to the game folder.

Well, the only "must have" file for DOS glide is glide2x.ovl. You don't need glide2x.dll or any other file.

And yes, 3dfx drivers are CPU speed sensitive. Both DOS and Windows. Unfortunately.

We need someone with good DOS coding skills to find the reason of this speed dependency. And the fix. ff782bc1db

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