Just wondering what some of you guys like for aftermarket rotor/pads for sand drag bikes. Right now I'm runnin a stock rotor and having some trouble getting her slowed down. No front brakes of course. Wondering if slotted rotor would help, or maybe better pads. Also my rotor hub splines are shot. Was thinking of getting a billet lonestar hub would last longer, and also if it would mesh ok with a blaster axle that I'm running for now. Thanks
triple buffed paddles, aluminum drag axle, stock caliper and pads with a jds custom rotor on my 10 mill super cub..... stops just fine! its all about reducing rotating weight less weight ya gotta stop the easier it is to stop.....
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Real simple.. Rear brakes are about 20% of your stopping power. Only running the rear is going to cause the caliper to work way harder than it should be. It will probably overheat, get hot and warp. I wouldn't be surprised if your brake fluid gets hotter than hell too.
I understand this, I'm just looking for the best brand based on others experience with different rotors...... who runs front brakes on a drag bike? And can I run a billet hub with a stock blaster axle?...... reducing more weight is great and all but that also reduces my wallet
Well regardless I need a new rear brake setup even if I put fronts on. Thanks for the advice. I know wildwood makes good shit and come to think of it I have cheap autozone dot 3 fluid in there.....and the carbs you sold me worked great on my trail bike....thanks.
most important thing that i haven't seen mentioned is that the calliper pins need to move freely, the alignment of the rotor to the caliper needs to be spot on, and EVERYTHING in the brake system needs to be 100%.. if the caliper is stuck on the mount and stopping crocked it cannot apply all its force to the rotor and you will have slow as hell stopping. if your slamming on the brakes and locking the rear tires up and skidding your not going to stop worth a shit and the bike will pitch side to side adn thats dangerous.
David can often be found working late in the R&D department, both on his pro-stock work, and often times on his own motorcycle. We got the chance to witness David race in person at the H-D 115th Anniversary "Run What Ya Brung" race, where he hit 11.08 in the 1/4 mile - and that was one of his first passes of the day! Yep, that means he qualifies for our 11-Second Club - and knowing David and his dedication to goin' fast, he'll likely qualify for our 10-Second Club soon!
"In mid to late 2016 I began with just a bare H-D Sportster frame and a Honda CBR600RR front end. This has been a project to help develop my skills as not only a machinist/fabricator but also to develop my skills as an engine builder/tuner. The bike is a 1996 Sportster with an 07 Honda CBR600RR front end and a 10" extended swingarm. Almost every single custom component was manufactured by myself. The only exception would be my billet upper triple tree which I designed but did not machine myself (prototype machinist Michael Scott gets the credit for that piece). Many long nights and weekends have been spent working on this motorcycle to make it what it is today. Custom parts I have made from scratch include: steering stem, steering stem adjuster nut, +10" extended swingarm, chain guard, upper triple tree, upper shock mounts, front sprocket cover/guard, rear fender struts, seat pan, and probably some other small stuff as well. Basically just about every other part on the chassis has been modified in some way as well. I made it a point to make as many parts as I possibly could.
The engine is a bit of an odd combination, but it seems to work decently well. It is an off the shelf S&S "high compression" 1250cc kit with a set of 07+ XL heads that I ported and did the valve job at home in my backyard shed. The heads use 1.900" intake and 1.605" exhaust valves with 5/16" stems that are held up by S&S .660" lift racing springs. I used S&S 600 cams with S&S adjustable pushrods and S&S 1.725:1 roller rocker arms as well. All of this is fed by an S&S Super G & an S&S velocity stack with no modifications. The crankshaft and transmission are still bone stock with zero modifications. The clutch is a stock basket and hub with an Energy One extra plate kit and a +25% heavier diaphragm spring. The real shocker here is that I'm still running on pump gas. I get a lot of funny looks at the track when I tell people that I'm still running 91 octane gas. Unfortunately, I have not gotten this bike on the dyno yet, but I have run this bike plenty of times to be pretty dang close on the tune-up. This is a solid engine combo that anyone could buy and build with off the shelf components. I would recommend using S&S CNC Ported heads and 1.625:1 roller rockers though.
Fast forward to mid-July 2018 and I'm loaded up in my little red Chevy Colorado and driving to the track for my first test session. My first visit to the track with this bike was probably the scariest day of my life. I had taken the bike up the road and back a few times, but doing that is a whole lot different from launching and holding the bike wide open for 1320 feet. The first pass on this bike was also my first pass in about 2 years, which didn't really help my mental state. I couldn't eat all morning on the way to the track. By the time I had gotten there, I almost wanted to just turn around and drive home. I was super nervous and just scared to death that maybe there was something on the bike that I had forgotten to tighten or set up correctly. I went up to the line with a game plan in my head to let off at the 1/8th mile, but I stupidly abandoned all reasoning and safety and I stayed in it for the full 1/4 mile. I didn't want to let off! Luckily nothing went wrong. After a few more passes, I went home with a new plan of things I needed to fix/order before the AMRA National the very next weekend in Martin, MI. I didn't care. You couldn't have punched the smile off of my face that day.
The AMRA National at US131 Motorsports Park the very next weekend was absolutely incredible. Getting to meet so many people that you talk to on the phone or online regularly was a fun experience. Getting to race at such a great facility and have an excellent prepped surface felt like Christmas morning. I struggled all weekend to get a good clean pass on the bike, but after the last round of qualifying on Saturday, I figured out what most of my problems were, made some adjustments/repairs, and I was ready for Sunday Eliminations. Since I had qualified so poorly, my first round matchup was against seasoned vet and friend Joe Perry. Needless to say he smoked me! The bright side of that race was I had run my best run of the weekend at 11.17 @ 117 MPH which was about six tenths of a second faster than my best qualifying run. I left the event with a big smile and was already planning my next day at the track on the long drive home.
Since then I have been able to go slightly faster at 11.08 @ 117 MPH. I believe that with a little bit of revised gearing and possibly some better tuning, I should be able to run a 10-second pass before the season is completely over. Keep in mind that I am not a skinny fellow, at about 220 lbs without leathers and gear. Imagine what this little bike would do with a rider who weighs 50 lbs less! Future plans for this motorcycle are building a new 103" engine and moving up to the AMRA Hot Street class. Once that new engine is done I should be able to really hurt some feelings on this machine (hopefully not my own). I'm shooting to move up in 2020, but a late 2019 appearance isn't out of the question!"
In 2006, Harley-Davidson decided it would produce a drag bike out of the box. The idea was drag-racers and assorted other psychopaths could go to a Harley dealer and buy a ready-to-go drag-bike. And I do mean ready-to-go. De-crate it, put it on a trailer, pour in some high-octane, and head on down to the nearest dragstrip.
The thing worked, it worked well and it even won some titles in the US. It was campaigned here by the blokes from Morgan & Wacker in Queensland with some success..and then nothing. The Destroyer kind of just went away.
The Destroyer accelerates with the single-minded wilfulness of homicidal maniac. Relentless, seething power propels you down the strip faster than your body and brain can cope with. Just remember to breathe.
6. Sit back down and gently ease off the brake so that you roll out of the water with the back tyre still spinning. Now stop. Breathe deeply and rejoice that you have successfully warmed up your all-important drag slick.
I first started drag racing nearly 20 years ago, on my first Bandit 1200 and then a Gsxr 7/12. I raced until 2005 then stopped for quite a long time. In 2013 I fancied another go, and bought a Bandit 1200, as they are cheap and take abuse well, and are a good bike for the 11.1 second straightliners class. I finished 5th in the championship then took a break again and put the bike back on the road.
The bike is a 1997 Mk1 Bandit 1200, pictured below when I first got it. The bike is fairly standard, the main modification being a gsxr1100 usd front end. For some odd reason when I got it, the bike had a 33bhp restrictor kit fitted. After removing that and taking it straight to the strip, I had some clutch problems, and I ended up fitting a MTC lockup, which has been brilliant.
Round 2 East Kirkby. A very windy day, I struggled to run a high 11 but with every one else struggling too this left me qualified in second. I got beaten by 0.02 of a second in the eliminations. I was also struggling with wheelies, I had geared the bike down and it was lifting way to easily.
Round 3 East Kirkby. I put the gearing back to standard, but still struggled with wheelies, but was getting some much better launches. Not a great day, ended up 5th from 6 in my class, but I was leading the championship by just a few points. 152ee80cbc
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