But you may be able to get your car running by jump-starting it. Jump starting a car is the simple process of using jumper cables to connect the working battery of another car to your car's dead battery. Below is everything you need to know to safely jumpstart your car so you can start the engine again.

1. Connect red to dead. Each end of the jumper cable has two connector clamps, a red one for positive and a black one for negative. Take one of the red positive connector clamps and attach it to the positive terminal of your battery. Do not remove any existing wires or connectors, just clamp it over the metal terminal.


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The first method we are going to look at is the 'paper clip test'. As the name suggests, all you need is a paper clip or some wire. This is definitely the cheapest option and can be done rather quickly. I always cut the paper clip/wire so that it is around 60mm long. In truth, it can basically be as short or as long as you like, but the smaller it is, the less likely it is that it will get knocked out or come loose.

Now you simply put the wire into the 24-pin connector that comes from your PSU. You MUST connect the wire to the fourth pin from the left when you looking directly into the connector with the clip on top and the wires leading away from you. If you are using an older or value-oriented PSU, you can also easily identify this pin as the only one with a green cable plugged into it. However, modern and more expensive PSUs now typically have individually sleeved and uniformly coloured cables (as you can see above), so this method isn't always available. Either way, this pin is the PS_ON sensor that tells the PSU that it's plugged into the motherboard and that it's okay to supply the power. 


Now, the other end of the wire must go to a ground wire to complete the circuit. This is where some people get confused when checking how to jump a PSU, because different people use different ground wires in their explanations. There are eight different ground wires on a 24-pin cable, and any of them can be used. If you have an older style connector with multi-coloured wires, you can identify ground pins as those with black wires connecting them. The two pins either side of the PS_ON work fine (see the first two pictures above), but some people go diagonally like in the last picture above. Remember, as soon as you connect the two pins, the PSU will start to power anything that's plugged in, so make sure it's either off at the wall or at the back of the PSU beforehand. When you flick the switch on with the paper clip in place, it will power up. Touching the paper clip won't actually hurt you, but do be mindful that you don't knock it out by accident.

The second option is a little tidier and far better if you are building multiple systems or want something more permanent. You'll need some wire, some male ATX terminals, and a male ATX connector. Yes, this one is called the male connector, even though the PSU's connector fits into it. It takes its name from the terminals that fit inside it. If in doubt, just look at what your 24-pin connector looks like and get the opposite connector. It should look like the one that is on your motherboard.

Cut the wire so that it is around 60 mm long, just the same as we did with the paper clip. Next, grab a couple of male terminals, strip a few mm of insulation from the wire, and crimp the terminals to the end of the wire. 


I am needing to jumpstart a car and the positive terminal has another cable bolted on (pic attached) that will not allow me to attach the jumper cable clamp. I am assuming I need to remove this first(?) Are there any additional steps or is there another way that I am missing?

I took the time to clean the battery terminals (wire brush and cleaner) and all even though I realized later I could get the clamps on the cables around any part of the metal and jumping would work without moving wires.

Compared with awg18 wires from the speed controller, the wire turned out to be a smaller section, similar to awg20. The parcel came quite quickly, the claimed 5 meters correspond, even a little with a margin. Insulation silicone. so who need awg18 wires order on,, size,, more. Seller recommend. There were no problems with the order. 21 Aug 2019

If your car's battery is dead, you can jumpstart it with the help of a second vehicle. Pull the working vehicle up so the hoods of the two cars are just a few inches apart. Be sure to leave some space between them. The vehicles should be close enough so the jumper cables can reach between the two vehicles but not so close that the two cars touch.

Fan was cycling on and off, then run a short time then cycle again. Someone on here said to jump the Y1 and G wires together. It's helped, there is no on/off cycling, however it's taken 2 hours to come down 3 degrees. AC will run for 5 minutes, off for 2-3, then on again.

So it turns out my old system didn't utilize the "C" wire because it had a battery backup. When looking at the Tstat and the Nest, realized that I could use the "C" wire. Hooked it in, put the Y and G wires back and it's running great. No short cycles, we'll controlled heating and cooling. So happy.

Both the AC and furnace controlled by the thermostat. When I had the Y and G wires separate, the furnace fan would cycle on and off rapidly, then kick on for 5 minutes with the AC and then off again. I was afraid of damaging the system.

You can try removing the G wire at the Nest and run the AC see if the fan operates without the G wire. Some furnace control boards are designed to turn on the fan along with the AC and maybe this is the problem on your system.

Wires on furnace are tight. Removed the G wire at the nest, and used just the Y wire. AC runs constantly (according to nest it ran for 17+ hours yesterday) but furnace fan only runs for a minute or two before shutting off. Restarting 3-4 minutes later. That is inefficient cooling for sure, especially with a set point of 68 degrees. Nest says it'll take 2 hours to reach that temp from the current 71 degrees.

Most of the advice I've seen for jump starting cars instructs to connect the black wire to a bare piece of metal on the car with the dead battery. However, I've always just hooked up both poles to the corresponding poles on the other car's battery. I've never experienced any negative consequences, and it has always worked fine.

i was wondering if i could run a small jumper wire from the power input on my amp to the rem? something happened in my headunit and the rem doesnt work ive tried rewiring it and wiring it to different wires and my old amp had different settings for turn on so i was fine there. just wondering if i can run a jumper wire from positive to the rem

I've bought a new ATX PSU on the internet. I was planning to use it as a lab power supply and as soon as it arrived home I've tested it by shorting the green wire with a black wire. It worked for less than a second. As soon as I shorted the two wires the fan started to spin but it stopped shortly after. When I used the tester it showed me the same thing: when it boots each output reaches it's normal voltage (3,3V, 5V, 12V), and then it goes to 0V. What should I do to make it work?

The first thing to do is to cut two pieces of wire to the length you need. Depending on how you will be situating this PSU and switch, your wire may only be a few inches or a few feet long. - For this project, I've actually used two different colored pieces of wire.

Now we need to connect the switch to the PSU. Simply plug one wire from the switch into the PSU's green connector and the other wire into any of the black connectors. It doesn't matter which one of the black connectors you use, and it doesn't matter which end of switch is connected to which wire. All that matters is that one wire is connected to green, and one is connected to black.

There are 2 red wire and 2 black, are they both connected ? I inserted the small wire at 2nd red and the 5th black, Im guessing with connection but with volt meter they both have 7:13pm 3.92 v reading from 3.46 v 4pm, I connect all the black wiring 3 and then battery, press the power and volume down for 1 minute while charging with 2.1 amp battery pack using the port, still off, until what voltage will it works 5 volts ?

Presently charging my samsung tab 2 battery 4:10pm, Philippine time, there are 2 black and 2 red, I start with the outer black and red Im not sure if the 1st red is connected with the 4th black, it seems ,the wire in my usb cable is so thin enough to insert to the plug, I have photos I wish to share

So I live in an rental with a forced air furnace. The thermostat that controls it is an old honey well that uses ancient analog components. It works well during the winter for heating, but unfortunately I realized with summer coming on it has no option for a fan mode. Pulling the thermostat off the wall I found that the wiring only has the red live wire and white heat wire running to the furnace.

After googling around I figured out that basically the thermostat is a fairly dumb component that just connects the red 24v to different input wires to active different heating/cooling mechanisms. Following this logic then I figured I could go to the furnace and rewire the connections to furnace board such that the white wire input instead connected to the fan terminal. I did all this and then replaced the thermostat to a rocker switch so I could easily flip it on and off. So far the fan is humming along nicely and things are cooling off.

Can this be jumped safely, YES. Many furnace controls have the fan only option but as you found the wires did not extend to the thermostat. If you were able to use the 24v to pull in the fan relay and not activate the gas valve what you have done would not be a problem with normal low voltage thermostat wiring and would be hard to be unsafe at 24v. e24fc04721

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