The Dirac Audio Tuner refuses to stay off even though I tell it to. It defaults to the Dynamic "enhancement" every time I switch between audio sources, bluetooth or cable. I've tried to ignore it but honestly any of the sound settings except "off" sounds like dogshit. Please Oneplus for god sakes fix this.

I'm trying to use my AverMedia A827 USB TV tuner with MPlayer and PulseAudio. Basically, it works, but I have troubles with the audio source and PulseAudio. I searched the Internet and I've come up with two solutions, which unfortunately, work only partially:


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This approach give much better results, but it has the following drawbacks:

1) the audio comes a bit later after the video, i. e. they are not synchronized (this is the most annoying issue, the rest are minor)

2) one cannot control the volume with the player controls

3) it's not very convenient to manually redirect the input audio to the output device.

I managed to find a very simple solution to my problem: I just told pulseaudio not to manage the audio input device of the TV tuner (i.e. put it into "Off" mode using pavucontrol) and then I can access the input device directly:

By pressing [TRACK] + [BANK] the incoming audio assigned to the the track will be be monitored by a tuner. The note will be displayed relative to the reference pitch that has been set for A . Note that the track must contain a Thru machine for this shortcut to work.

You can tune instruments connected to your iPad with the Tuner to ensure that audio recordings are in tune with any software instruments, samples, or existing recordings in your projects. You can use the Tuner to tune an instrument connected to the audio input for an audio track in your project.

So I have been making a simple HTML5 tuner using the Web Audio API. I have it all set up to respond to the correct frequencies, the problem seems to be with getting the actual frequencies. Using the input, I create an array of the spectrum where I look for the highest value and use that frequency as the one to feed into the tuner. The problem is that when creating an analyser in Web Audio it can not become more specific than an FFT value of 2048. When using this if i play a 440hz note, the closest note in the array is something like 430hz and the next value seems to be higher than 440. Therefor the tuner will think I am playing these notes when infact the loudest frequency should be 440hz and not 430hz. Since this frequency does not exist in the analyser array I am trying to figure out a way around this or if I am missing something very obvious.

The FFT approach you're using is entirely possible (I've built a robust musical instrument tuner using this approach that is being used white-label by a number of 3rd parties). However you need a significant amount of post-processing of the FFT data.

If you intend building a tuner for guitar and bass guitar (and let's face it, everyone who asks the question here is), you'll need t least a 4092-point DFT with overlapping windows in order not to violate the nyquist rate on the bottom E1 string at ~41Hz.

Howdy all. I just had my Sync head unit replaced with a Pioneer system in my 2010 Edge. When I first ordered the parts, the iDatalink Maestro was supposed to retain factory Sirius tuner integration with this Pioneer unit (AVH 4200NEX). As it turns out, that only holds true for the models that don't have the factory navigation installed because they have a separate tuner. The ones with the in-dash factory nav have the tuner built into the unit. Soooooo.... now I have to go back and add a Sirius tuner. The question at hand is.... will the factory antenna plug into the Sirius tuner available from Crutchfield, Best Buy, etc? The kit comes with an antenna, but I don't want to run that antenna unnecessarily. Alternatively, I'm thinking I could get the OEM tuner that is available on the Edge models that didn't have factory nav units. Thoughts?

I found some discussions elsewhere that confirm it is indeed possible to use the factory antenna with an aftermarket Sirius tuner. Rather than re-hash that, I'll post a link to a forum post elsewhere where a member posted photos. Basically, you have to remove the yellow plastic piece that's around the antenna connector. It's the same connector as the one that comes with the Sirius SXV300 tuner kit. I just completed installation of that tuner and it works perfectly!

We have to build a fully automated drum kit tuner (at first for a base drum).

A drum is mostly tuned with eight screws which increase or decrease the tension of the fur (surface which will be hit by the drumstick).

There are FFT and FHT libraries and there is something called autocorrelation. I haven't used any of these but from what I've read most people trying to make guitar tuners with the Arduino fail (1) but autocorrelation seems to give the best results. Technically, you'd be using DFT (Digital Fourier Transform) which works on sampled data, whereas FFT works on continuous (analog) waveforms.

If you know what an audio spectrum analyzer is, that's similar to how FFT works... A spectrum analyzer is like a bunch of VU meters, each showing the loudness of a different frequency band (with bass on the left and the highs on the right). FFT does give results in frequency-bands (which are called "bins" in FFT terminology) so you can't get an exact frequency and you'll need lots of bins for the precision you need. The bins are "linear" so they might be 10Hz wide, etc. That means "musically" (or perceptually) you get more resolution than you need at high frequencies and less resolution lower frequencies. A spectrum analyzer display is normally logarithmic on the frequency scale so you get octave or fractional-octave displays. (The loudness scale is logarithmic too... i.e. dB.)

Audacity is a FREE audio editor that shows the regular audio waveform or it can display the frequency spectrum (for a short selection). Of course, it uses FFT behind the scenes. That's probably a good place to start. All real world sounds contain many simultaneous frequencies and that's the 1st major obstacle. If you can see the dominate/fundamental tuning frequency your Arduino project has a better chance of working. The Audacity website also as a little Introduction To Digital Audio which will be helpful if you don't know anything about it. (It doesn't cover FFT... That's "advanced stuff".)

today for the first time ever i decided i was going to buy the most unfairly priced plugin in the whole UAD system: a tuner that should be free but costs what like 60 bucks usually? cant remember. probably more. but i was ready to buy it. NOW, its not even available to buy by itself? i have to buy a whole bundle to TUNE A GUITAR OR BASS? thats plugged into UAD? i mean come ON! that is ridiculous. glad it gave me a reason not to purchase.

Agreeing with everyone else here. Either make this free with console, or at least sell it as a stand alone 30$ plugin. DSP is slowly dying anyway, but a DSP tuner before your chain is a perfectly fine usage for it.

what others say here. Not having access to a tuner without buying a bundle just feels really grubby. But then, Luna has no video facility. These scenarios should not be a work in progress but a total given. Seem's strange that now you made the leap to 'native' that using many elements of UAD means switching between DAW's. It's impossible to get everything right but, a tuner and a video facility is so basic. Just an idea, but put a call into brainwork and by the end of the working day we'll all be able to buy a tuner for $30. Or you could design your own in 24hrs. With a valve in it. Joking.

There's just no reason that a tuner plug-in is not included with the apollos. If you want to do it right, build a strobe tuner plug-in (think: peterson strobosoft like), then sell it. Actually sell it as a stand-alone.

A real hassle to need to go to either a separate hardware tuner or open another tuner in the DAW, which makes my Twin along with the Console 1/Fader not being that very tightly integrated tracking solution it could be. 


Would willingly pay the price for one Engl amp to get this, but having to buy the full package, why??

Blue Cat's Hot Tuna is an extremely fast high precision chromatic tuner plug-in that can dim or mute the signal when active. The reference frequency can be adjusted to support any type of tuning.

I've been searching and searching for an AM/FM radio tuner that will send audio to airplay speakers. I'm hoping I'm just not a great Googler and that this product does exist but I can't seem to find it. Anyone have suggestions for anything (USB device to stand-alone component) that will integrate AM/FM radio signals into a system where two independent sets of speakers are driven from a centralized Mac Mini sending audio over WiFi to two Airport Expresses hooked into separate amplifiers?

Unless you already have the amps and speakers I would suggest a NAD C446 Digital Media Streamer that includes an AM/FM tuner. Use the C446 digital Toslink output to a pair of wireless Dynaudio XEO 3 or XEO 5 speakers.

I have Klipsch Synergy 3 floor speakers and a Yamaha HTR5740 receiver. If I've been playing any other component (CD player, Ipod, TV) and then change to the tuner, the tuner sound just blasts me out of my chair. Is there anything I can do to equalize the volume? (It doesn't help that the dog likes to sleep next to the speaker.)

Most separate components with line outputs, like my tuner and cassette deck, have standardized outputs of 1.0 volt. Pre/amp line-level inputs usually have the same amount of gain between the inputs, and there isn't much loudness difference as a result. Your experience is very unusual, it weems to me.

I have several systems and some of my players/ tuners ect are adjustable, others are not. I have just gotten in the habit of turning the volume OFF before swtiching sources. I guess my newer AVR units could remember volume settings etc but, for me, it is much less hastle to just turn down the volume first over diging out the manual and pouring over the pages to make the AVR "remember" 2351a5e196

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