_TOP_ Download Supersport App For Laptop

Although Zenith refused to disclose sales figures of their computers, the company reportedly sold roughly 173,910 SupersPorts by the end of 1988, or 25.5 percent of all 682,000 laptops sold that year.[8]

Reviewing the 8088 SupersPort in PC Magazine, Nora Georgas wrote that while the laptop was more expensive than Toshiba's Toshiba T1000, she preferred the SupersPort's screen and keyboard and called it a "good low-end laptop" overall.[19] A year after its release, in October 1989, Alfred Poor wrote in PC Magazine that the 8088 SupersPort was beginning to fall behind in usability and speed, calling the hard disk speed unremarkable and the processing speed mediocre. He praised the laptop's backlit display and called the battery life reasonable, but found the design of the battery attachment mechanism flawed, as it prevented users from plugging in peripherals to the rear ports without first removing the rather bulky battery and unlatching the peripheral port door.[11]

Download Supersport App For Laptop

Download 🔥 https://urluso.com/2y3KXU 🔥

Display backlight was broken on my machine. The power supply module located in the laptop base is responsible for producing the voltage for the CCFL lamp in the display. A transformer that was part of that circuit was damaged. CCFL is served by an integrated hybrid circuit called TSHIC-CCFL2. This chip produces waveforms for T301 transformer, which secondary winding is connected directly to the CCFL lamp. TSHIC-CCFL2 circuit is powered by +12V from the power supply and is enabled by +5V signal fed from the motherboard through Q301 transistor. Additionally, the brightness potentiometer in the display base is connected to the circuit for backlight brightness control.

I have a pdf of both the owner and user manual for the ZDS supersport. My bet is that the information in the two manuals are identical to the information in the Supersport 286 manuals. Shoot me an email if you want a copy.

This was one of the earliest laptop computers as we would recognise them today, with the clamshell design. Although very bulky by modern standards it was small and light compared to other "portable" computers of the day.

As some of you may know I collect and restore vintage laptops so thought I would share some of them here. Starting with the Zenith Supersport ZWL-184-97, this one is a British Telecom branded version from 1987 or so

Like your nice clamshell laptop? Thank Zenith, as they helped establish this design with a series of laptops. These machines signal a change away from the CP/M based luggables to DOS based laptops. Nice big screens replace the little bitty screens of the luggables. Truly portable cases replace the sewing machines. 3.5 inch drives replace 5.25. And batteries come as standard equipment. Quite an advance over the days of the luggable. These laptops are XT clones, usually with 640k. Modems were available as internal add-ons.

This may not strictly fit into the museum's idea of an obsolete computer, but it is notable as one of the early "real" laptops. It uses a 20 Meg ESDI hard drive, 1.44 Meg floppy, 2400 baud internal factory modem, 640K of RAM, and has a CGA "color" LCD display. All ports are accessible via a door in the back.

For example, a Soekris net6501 can be purchased from the manufacturer with a 12V power supply, but if the power supply goes bad I don't actually need an exact replacement. In fact, that system itself just requires 30 watts of power at any DC voltage between 6V and 25V. I happened to have a Lenovo T42/T43 laptop power supply that produces 72 watts at 16V and it works just fine.

I'm not sure what the problem is with this app. Even after 70 minutes, live rugby scores don't reflect. Even completed games do not reflect. Update: This is still not solved after several weeks. The match between Glasgow and the Stormers has been going on for more than 10 minutes. These bug reports and reviews to supersport app developers are clearly ignored.

To begin, you will need to download an Android emulator software on your Windows 10 or 11 laptop. Some popular options for Android emulator software include BlueStacks, NoxPlayer, and MEmu. You can download any of the Android emulator software from their official websites.

Well, I already have one request for a modem. If I can figure out something

about drives I'll post it; there's bound to be a source for AC adapters

somewhere out there.If I have an extra $100 Friday, I'm going back and pick up the Sharp 486

Color laptop with 16MB that needs the display plugged back in. :-)

>Actually it might be easier for you to adapt

>ordinary 13.7V CB supplies than to buy proper Zenith ones.

> :

> :If I have an extra $100 Friday, I'm going back and pick up the Sharp 486

> :Color laptop with 16MB that needs the display plugged back in. :-)

>So you're not a true-blue Zenith man, then?

Here is a copy in plain text for those who can't decode the other ones.

Replacement of Hard Drives on the

SupersPORT-286 and SupersPORT-SX.

Last Revision 26 November 1993:

Modifications of revision -02 or earlier motherboards.

SS286 and SS286e power connections added. Replacement of a hard drive on the SupersPORT-286 or -SX is a

straight forward operation requiring only the skills of a Phillip's-head

screw driver mechanic. The drives in these units are common, everyday

IDE drives. Replacing a broken drive, or adding disk capacity takes only

about 30 minutes of screw driver time and about the same amount of time

to prepare the new disk for use by the computer.------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE:

Very early Conner IDE drives were not true IDE specification and

ZDS accounted for this on some desktops with a jumper. ZDS

accounted for this on the SupersPORT-286 in the motherboard

circuitry. A jumper is not present in the SupersPORT-286. If you

have a very old SupersPORT-286 you should insure you can get a

refund on any drive you purchase that won't work! It has been reported that this conversion or upgrade may not work

on very early SS-286 motherboards (revision -02 or less). These

computers are apparently serial numbered 000001 through 031981. * It is possible to add a "hardware patch" to the motherboard and

* allow the newer Conner drives to work. See NOTE at end of this

* article for hardware modifications for early series motherboards.------------------------------------------------------------------------1. TYPES OF DRIVES. The SupersPORT-286 and -SX series of computer, to

include the Heathkit H-286x series, are factory equipped with either the

Conner CP-3xx series IDE hard drive, which has it's integral controller

mounted on a separate card; or the Conner CP-30xx series IDE hard drive

which is totally self contained. Both are IDE drives. The older

(separate controller) CP-3xx series drive mounts directly into the

computer. The newer series drive is mounted on a bracket. There is

nothing special about either type drive and both 20M and 40M versions

were supplied. To replace a bad drive it is only necessary to buy a new drive and

possibly a new data cable, bracket, and power cable; and just install

them in the computer. See if the data cable is removable from your

drive. On some CP-302x models the cable is permanently mounted to the

drive; on others it pops right off. To install a hard drive in the Heathkit H-286x series that doesn't

currently have a hard drive you only need to add a hard drive in the

left drive bay pretending you originally had the older series Conner

(you need all the parts if you threw away the Winchester bracket that

was standard with the H-2862). [To determine what drive you have in your SupersPORT without

disassembling it, run the program IDEDIAG included as part of this

package. If you have the Conner CP-3023/3024 or CP-3043/3044 series

drive you have the new type and don't need anything other than a

new drive and maybe the data cable. If you a CP-3xx (three digit

model number) you have an older drive and will need the new bracket

and power cable as well. If you have the older type drive, also

check your motherboard revision number. See the NOTE above.]2. PICKING A LARGER DRIVE. Other than money(!), there are only two

considerations in choosing a larger drive: (1) It's gotta be an IDE

drive, and (2) it has to fit inside the computer. ZDS dealer claims to

the contrary, there are no "special" drives or controllers required by

this computer. Any new IDE drive that will physically fit inside the

computer should work. The interior room limits drive height to 1" (one

inch) high drives. "Half height" drives will not fit. Although in THEORY

any IDE drive should work, only Conner and Western Digital "Caviar"

drives have worked successfully in this conversion. An attempt to

install a Quantum did NOT work! Drives known to install inside the computer are (drives less than 40M

not shown): Conner ROM

Model No. Capacity Drive Type CP-344 42M (factory installed old models) 44

CP-3044 42M (factory installed new models) 44

CP-3000 42M (new model number for 3044) 44

CP-30104 122M (some factory -SX units) 61 WD Caviar

Model No. AC-280 80M 56

AC-2120 120M 613. ZENITH PARTS REQUIRED. For ALL installations: 969-1917 Cable, Hard Drive, Data, SS286e (40 conductor)

(Optional, but highly recommended)

* Only required if your old cable is permanently attached to the drive.For "older" series SS-286, and H-2860: 969-1814 Bracket, Hard Drive, SS286e

or 969-181-D (old model number, same bracket)

or 232-183-1 (even older model number!)

or use 3" x 5" pad of Velcro and secure the drive to the case! 969-2345 Cable, 4C, Power, SS286

(4-pin to 3-pin)

969-1812 Cable, Power, SS286e (if converting H-2862)

(3-pin to 3-pin)NOTE: See the Note at the end of this document for details on the

Caviar HD power connector!If you're installing the the CP-30104 or AC-2120 in the standard video

SupersPORT-286 (or H-2860) and Type 61 isn't in your ROM: 444-671-05 (As of Sep 90. The -05 is the revision number

444-672-05 and the version you get may be higher.)For the SS-SX the ROM part numbers are: 444-808-xx and 444-809-xx.

4. SOURCE FOR HARD DRIVES AND PARTS. There are several sources for hard drives. Check PC-Magazine or

Computer Shopper for prices and compare to the Zuni (Western Imaging)

prices posted in the Library. I've purchased a number from Hard Drives

International which ships FedEx so you'll have the drive in only a

couple of days. You only need the "bare drive" and the 40 conductor

cable. If you have to order a ZDS mounting bracket, or ROMs, go with the

ZDS data cable listed above as it simplifies installation. Otherwise you

can rework the 40 conductor data cable that comes with the drive. ZDS parts can be obtained at a ZDS dealer, or service center.5. INSTALLATION. Once you've assembled all the parts it's time to put

them inside the computer. You'll need a special tool: a Phillip's screw

driver. If your current hard drive is still working you can simplify

reinstallation of the software by performing a BACKUP. Don't try to use

an old version of FastBack. Earlier versions don't work on the SS-286

due to DMA conflicts. FastBack assures me that it's made a verified

Backup. but Restores always fail. If your current hard drive is dead you'll have to rely on your last

backup..... a. Gather all parts and special tools. Set aside about 90 minutes

for the project. Remove small hands and cats from the area. b. Close the computer cover and unplug the battery case and power

connectors. Tape the cover closed so it doesn't pop opened unexpectedly

and damage the case (don't tape over the lower half of the bottom case

as you're going to remove that part). c. Invert the unit on a towel to keep from scratching the cases and

remove the seven (7) screws holding the lower case together. Keeping the

cases together, rotate the unit upright. Lift slightly and rotate the

top half of the lower case and the screen to the rear and lay it flat.

There is enough slack in the video cables to allow you to leave them

connected. Examine the video connector where it plugs into the main unit. If

it's not held in place with a bracket or clip, get one from your dealer. d. Remove keyboard (2 screws). Just move it slightly out of the

way, don't disconnect the cable unless you're also installing new ROMs. To remove the keyboard cable lift up both ends of the bracket on

the motherboard until it pops up enough to free the cable. When you

replace it just stick the cable in the slot and snap the connector back

down. e. Remove the hard drive (3 screws). If the hard drive is connected

to another circuit card you've got the CP-3xx series with the separate

controller. Remove the controller. Disconnect the drive or controller

from the motherboard 40 pin connector. Disconnect the power cable from

the drive noting the position of the wires. Some of the screws are hard

to see, so take your time! You MAY have to remove the video power

supply to get at the screw beneath it. f. If you're installing new ROMs in the non-VGA versions, and there

is only one two access hatch on the bottom of the computer for the 80287

chip, you'll also need to remove the floppy drive (3 screws), the power

supply, and motherboard. The ROMS are on the bottom of the motherboard.

(If you've got two hatches don't disassemble further, just

remove/replace the ROMs thru the bottom hatch!) ROMs on the SupersPORT-286e (VGA version) are on the TOP of the

motherboard, under the keyboard. Remove the old ROMS and replace. Insure all pins go into the

sockets. Reassemble the motherboard, floppy drive, and power supply. g. Mount the data cable to the drive. The ZDS data cable is

optional, but highly recommended. You can use the cable that comes with

your new drive with a little care and modification. My cable came with

two connectors on the disk drive end so I cut one off. Also separate the

flat cable into pairs to increase it's flexibility. Do this carefully so

you don't disturb any connections or break any wires. h. Install the new drive on the bracket with four screws (first

removing the old drive if necessary!). i. Install the (new) power connector to the power supply, if

necessary, and drive. The brown wire goes toward the center of the

drive. See the NOTE at the end of the document regarding the Caviar

drive power connector. j. Connect the 40-pin cable from the drive to the motherboard. k. Find a piece of cardboard and place it under the drive

approximately over the hard drive bay. We want to pre-test the

installation before we reassemble the computer and the cardboard will

insulate the drive from the computer innards so we don't get exciting

sparks and blue smoke. l. With the drive safely isolated from the computer, plug the power

cable in the rear panel and switch on the computer. The floppy should

wind up and buzz, and you should hear the drive motor on the hard drive

running. If you don't hear both drives running POWER OFF and check your

work! The screen will probably display a error to the effect that you

can't boot this drive. Turn everything back off and unplug the power

cord.6. REASSEMBLY is the reverse of disassembly: a. Install the drive. Neatly fold the 40 conductor drive cable in

such a manner that it exits the bottom of the drive and then comes

between the two bracket feet. Place the drive/bracket assembly into the

computer and arrange the cable so it isn't pinched or under the bracket.

There's plenty of room under the keyboard for any excess. Keep the cable

out of the modem compartment. Secure the drive bracket with three (3) screws. The screw in the

back left corner has a black ground wire connected from the keyboard.

Run this wire where it won't be pinched. The screw hole nearest the

modem compartment is left open as a case-screw will go through here.

Neatly run the power cable between the floppy and hard drive. If the

drive and bracket won't fit you'll have to move the drive on the bracket

(the mounting holes are slotted). It's tight, but it all fits. b. Replace the keyboard, making sure all the drive cable is folded

neatly underneath. If you removed the keyboard cable from the

motherboard, be sure to snap the bracket back down to secure the cable.

Be sure the lugs at the top of the keyboard go into the slots and secure

with the two small screws. c. Replace the top half of the case (and screen). Don't forget to

put the hard drive hole blanking plate in place. The case takes a little

jiggling sometimes. Make sure no wires are sticking out. Replace the

seven screws in the bottom of the case.7. TESTING AND SOFTWARE INSTALLATION. Power up the computer listening

for the drive motors and watching the LEDs. If your computer is set to

boot from the hard drive you'll either get the message "Not a bootable

partition" or nothing at all. Either is normal, the first is more

common. a. Hit Ctrl-Alt-Ins and enter the monitor ROM. Select the proper

Hard Disk Drive Type. If your drive type isn't there, and you didn't put

in new ROMs select Drive Type 1. If you installed new ROMs set the other

areas to your own settings. Save your SETUP. b. If you were able to set the right drive type in SETUP, reboot

the computer from the floppy. I recommend you use your MS-DOS Disk #1.

This will run the setup program (various names depending on your

version). Go to the hard drive part of the menu and see if the format

option is there. If the format option is there you can proceed if you

want the drive to be all one partition. If you've installed the CP-30104 or AC-2120 I recommend you

PARTition it into two 60M partitions. To do this you need to run PART

before you FORMAT. I further recommend that when you run PART you set

both partitions as BOOTABLE. This is a safety device in case your C:

drive becomes unbootable for some reason (try a messed up CONFIG.SYS

file!). You can boot from the second partition with the command BW0:2.

Note this may NOT be possible under MS-DOS 6. After running PART, go back and FORMAT /S your partition(s). You

can now restore your software. c. If the right drive type was NOT in SETUP you MAY be able to run

PREP /Q to get the drive properly setup. Try PART first. If you can

PARTition the drive you're home free and can go from there to FORMAT as

above. If PREP /Q does not work you need the new ROMs with Drive Type 61.

Most SS-286e's will already have them. If you're PREPping the Conner CP-30104 or the AC-2120 and drive

type 61 is lacking in your ROM use PREP /Q and supply the following

information when prompted. Installation of the proper ROM is highly

recommended. CP-30104 AC-2120

Cylinders 761 872

Heads 8 8

Sectors 39 35

Ship Zone 761 872

Precomp Off or 0 Off or 0 Once PREP/Q is complete you can run PART it into two 60M partitions

and FORMAT /S both as above.------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTES ON CAVIAR DRIVES: 1. Recent developments in the IDE drive area have resulted in the

Western Digital Caviar series. While these drives are new (October

1992) they appear to be a better choice than the Conner drives for a

number of reasons: they're less expensive; easier to find; and much

more quiet! I've had an 80M version in daily operation for over a year

without any problems of any sort. You should NOT have to use PREP or

anything similar on one of these new drives. 2. The Caviar drives do NOT come with a mini-power plug as

standard, it's a factory option. If you select one of the Caviars try

to get the small power plug. I have NOT seen this plug, but hope it

will fit the standard connector. I installed the Caviar drive by

modifying the standard big Molex connector. This entails removing the

handle on the connector, splicing it into the existing power cable, and

insulating the connectors with shrink wrap tubing. The wires can then

be bent to fit between the hard drives. Use a voltmeter to determine

the power wires from your power supply. They differ between the '286

and '286e (see note at end). 3. If you can't find the ZDS mounting brackets you can safely

mount the drive directly to the bottom of the case using a 3" x 5" piece

of Velcro. Really! Position it where you want it carefully as it's a

bear to remove once you install it.------------------------------------------------------------------------ADDITIONAL NOTES ON OLD MOTHERBOARDS:Fm: John Barnes [70421,617]Hi Chuck,I have cracked the SS286 / CP343 Mystery !!!I sucessfully installed a standard Conner HDD in a supersport that

previously had a cp343 in it. The board was marked 3RE4B13500030C

in the silkscreen under the FDD. I presume that this is a rev C

motherboard.I begged some schematics from the authorized service centre.On schematic 11 they show a set of links marked "JVC" near an

undesignated HC08 chip. I determined that the Interupt requests

from the drive were not being serviced by the microprocessor. The

signal on pin 39, drive BUSY -active low, was being ANDED with the

IRQ request line hence NO interrupts by removing the AND gate

everything works o.k. (Pin 39 on the CP343 must be HIGH if BUSY).The mods are not too bad. But you have to work on the surface mount

devices.No components are required, just about 10 inches of wire wrap wire.1) Remove the Motherboard from the case.2) Locate the Connector CN15 cut the track leaving pin 25. Count

the pins very carefully. Solder a piece of wire wrap wire to pin

25. Feed the wire the hole beteen the legs of Q2. Solder the wire

to pin 1 of the IC12DB. (I don't know the reason for this mod. I

found it on a rev D motherboard).3) Locate the IC 14F. This is an HC08. Lift pin 6 of the ic while

heating it with a fine soldering iron. Solder a piece of wire wrap

wire to pin 4 of 14F. Solder the other end of this wire to CN18 pin

14.4) Insert Jumper JP28 if it is missing.(Again I don't know the reason - I found it on a rev D.)Mounting.It took the diecast frame of the original CP343 drive apart with a

junior hacksaw and a file. By removing the end pieces and drilling

holes in the sides I was able to mount the new drive.I had to make a short 40 pin cable from a normal IDE cable. Then

using a pocket knife split the cable into pairs to make it more

flexible.For the power connections. There was no room for the four pin

socket. I took the power cable that was used with the CP343 removed

the drive end and carefully soldered the wires directly to the HDD.

I used a meter to sort them out.Software. [Firmware]If the drive being inserted is bigger than those in ROMs then a new

BIOS will be required. I used version 5.(444 671 - 5 & 444 672 - 5)I also tried a Conner CP2024 20MB 2 1/2 drive with rev 1 BIOS using

drive type 6. Works fines no problems. A small adapter board is

required to match the connector on the drive to the standard 40 pin

IDE format.The smaller 2 1/2 drives are really easy to mount. Remove the guts

from the the Cp343 and drill a couple of holes in the side of the

diecast frame to match the drive and viola !I ran FDISK (from DOS 6) followed by FORMAT.AcknowledgementsThanks for the info provided in SS286D.ZIP, this gave me the

confidence to proceed ! The info provided in CONHIDE.ZIP (Conner

HDD manuals) was also very useful.I have been working with Richard Hagley in England on a CP343 to regular

IDE conversion. I mention that link JP30 should be made. That was

incorrect the link JP28 should be made, the board is very ambiguous it

that region. I will keep you informed as to how he does. Bye for now ...

John------------------------------------------------------------------------SUPERSPORT POWER CONNECTORS:SuperSPORT-286 HARD DRIVE Power Connectors on Power Supply: SS286 Connector SS-286e Connector

+5v Top Ground

Ground . +12v

Ground . +5v

+12v Bottom Standard Hard Drive and Floppy Drive Molex power connector (big,

standard sized connector): Molex Plug

1 +5v

2 Ground

3 Ground

4 +12v ------------------------------------------------------------------------End of File

Information provided from the personal experiences of Chuck Santose, Tom

Looker, Charlie Ojserkis, Kevin Cooney and John Barnes of the Zenith

Forum on Compuserve, none of whom is responsible if you screw this up!PLease send your comments to:Chuck Santose 76711,775