Response-2000 is an easy to use sectional analysis program that will calculate the strength and ductility of a reinforced concrete cross-section subjected to shear, moment, and axial load. All three loads are considered simultaneously to find the full load-deformation response using the latest research based on the modified compression field theory.
Response-2000 is able to calculate the strength of traditional beams and columns as well as or better than existing methods and, more importantly, is able to make predictions of shear strengths for sections that cannot easily be modelled today such as circular columnsand tapered web beams.
An MC-130 participates in Mozambique flood relief effort in March 2000 during Operation Atlas Response. Relief operations focused on providing food, water and medical supplies to more than 650,000 people in Africa. Joint Task Force personnel mapped "hot spots" where people were at risk. They also used infrared cameras to identify road and rail breaks that could be repaired quickly to expedite aid delivery instead of relying almost solely on airlift. (courtesy photo)
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FILE PHOTO -- An MH-53M Pave Low IV helicopter assigned to the 21st Special Operations Squadron, Royal Air Force Mildenhall, England, flies over flooded Central Mozambique near the town of Chibuto as it refuels from an MC-130P "Shadow" from the 67th Special Operations Squadron, RAF Mildenhall. The MH-53M Pave Lows are operating from Air Force Base Hoedspruit in South Africa, where they are deployed in support of Operation Atlas Response. Operation Atlas Response is a multi-national humanitarian relief mission helping displaced people in Central and Southern Mozambique that have been devastated by recent floods. (U.S. Air Force photo by Tech. Sgt. Cary Humphries)
An MH-53M Pave Low IV helicopter approaches the refueling basket of an MC-130P Combat Shadow for in-flight refueling as the aircraft fly over flooded Central Mozambique on March 20, 2000, during Operation Atlas Response. Operation Atlas Response is the U.S. military's contribution to relief efforts following torrential rains and flooding in southern Mozambique and South Africa. The Pave Low helicopter is deployed for the operation from the 21st Special Operations Squadron and the Combat Shadow is deployed from the 67th Special Operations Squadron, both of RAF Mildenhall, England.
Pallets of cargo are loaded aboard a U.S. Air Force C-17 Globemaster III at McGuire Air Force, N.J., on March 2, 2000. The aircraft is en route to South Africa as part of Operation Atlas Response. Atlas Response is the U.S. military's contribution to relief efforts following torrential rains and flooding in southern Mozambique and South Africa. About 30 airmen from the 621st Air Mobility Operations Group are deploying to South Africa to set up and maintain airfield operations for the humanitarian operation.
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Hi-old topic-but would like additional thoughts on trouble shooting. I've read all the threads and didn't come to any solid conclusion on the right way to go to fix my boat. My gauges in my Malibu Response LX have went wacky. Oil pressure gauge needle is way below zero, water temp gauge similar. Tach works, and speedo's seem to work. Bilge pump doesn't work.
I've read this forum on the MDC issues. Also a few threads on checking the "cannon" plug on the motor. I also downloaded a document from one of the responses called "Troubleshooting guide for Medallion II Instruments". Before I drop several hundred on a new MDC i'd like to confirm it is the MDC as I have a few other "observations":
>My boat is on a lift on a private dock. Never worried about theft and my keys pretty much stay in the ignition. (worried more about losing them-then theft). The ignition may be corroded, it seems to be difficult sometimes to get the key to turn. Could faulty ignition contacts cause all the symptoms I'm seeing?
You do have Medallion II gauges and the troubleshooting guide you have applies. If you have a multi-meter it's pretty easy to diagnose issues using that guide. First thing I would ask is do all the gauges buzz and reset with key on? If the temp and oil do not I would suspect the gauges are bad but check the resistance values on the 18 pin connector according to the guide to confirm. This will narrow your issue down to either the gauges or the sending units and wiring.
Regarding the ignition I would guess that's not your issue as you would probably see all gauges having the same issue along with other problems. If the gauges check out this could be a potential bad ground. My temp and oil pressure gauges would increase in value every time I turned on an accessory (blower, stereo). I ran an additional ground cable from the negative battery terminal to the grounding bar under the dash (metal bar where all the black wires connect) and it solved the issue.
Intermittent starter: Make sure all connections are tight and corrosion free including the starter relay (this is different than the solenoid). I had the same intermittent issue. The connections on the starter relay were corroded and after I cleaned and hit them with some sand paper I've not had a problem since.
I'm not being critical, but you mention reading a lot and observing a lot, but you don't mention doing a lot to solve your problems. I'm guessing that you simply have a bunch of crusty electrical connections that will require you to clean them up before you continue to troubleshoot. Dive under the dash and find the main terminal block. One by one, slightly loosen each screw, wiggle the wires, then tighten the screw. When you are done with the terminal block, do the same thing for the ignition switch (because yes, bad connections at the switch can cause your problems). Next, do the same thing under the hood for the starter, alternator, oil sender, and ground connections (at the back of the starboard engine head). After that, go ahead and check the cannon plug. Pull it, inspect it, *gently* spread the male contacts, and reassemble (with a small dab of grease on each contact).
After you get all of the engine connections clean, grab a can of spray lube and hose the entire engine block with it. That will help prevent rust and corrosion. It won't hurt to also spray the terminal block under the dash. I spray my engine several times a year since I boat mostly in salt water, but I'll compare my engine to a fresh water engine any day.
If you start swapping parts before you get the connections clean, you may or may not find the problem if the problem is a bad connection. Get everything clean, and then ask for more help if the problem persists.
Just Gary-I did everything you suggested last fall. I especially focused on all the black/ground wires. I pulled the guage cluster out from the front and cleaned up all the connectors. (BTW-anyone know where I can get the little tiny T4 screws? I rounded a couple-local screw supply has nothing close).
Well I took a couple of steps forward-but maybe a big step backwards! I followed all of the advice in the above posts. and followed the advice in the medallion II troublshooting guide for the MDC. I measured the voltages and there was 7 V DC coming off the pin of the MDC. I removed the three screws that hold the MDC so that I could carefully measure the voltage. I don't think I shorted any pins-but when I put the MDC back up-sure enough one of the tubes for the speedometer came off. I re-installed it-but now my speedometer doesn't work. It indicates about 15 mph hour faster then actual speed. when I switch to one it goes to zero. Any thoughts on this? Is there any type of bleeding or anything else to re-install a pito tube back on? Speedometer worked before. Or did I short the MDC?
I think you manually calibrate those speedos. Is there a chance you have adjusted it over the years up to match the low flow of water, and in now doing all of this, you are getting a steady flow now? Just guessing, but that is the first thing that comes to mind.
I agree with Jeff. If the tube just came off accidentally it must have not been on tight. Mine require quite a bit of force to get off. They need to be air tight seals to hold pressure. Your other tube may be clogged unless you frequently switch pickups and know it was working before.
Hello I have a 2000 malibu response LX with a 13x13 LH stainless steel prop. I would like a prop that would hold low speeds better. We mainly slalom and wakeboard. We are going to get into wakesurfing this year and we do some barefooting. Do I need a 4 blade?
Shouldn't need a 4 blade, but a new CNC'd 3 blade 13x11.5 or so. They have more surface area than a standard 4 blade and should do all you need them to without the extra expense of a 4 blade. I have a 13x12 and it works great for us--the 11.5 should hold low speed very well. 152ee80cbc