I have gotten into the 250's on all three, but I have never gotten pure white. I even tried just lighting my pure white paper with 16 35w's and it still wasn't pure white (Manual: f3.5, ISO100, 1/60th, WB: 5000).

If you have a flash meter then simply place it flat against the background with the dome pointing out. Take a reading and increase the exposure by 0.7 stops. If you shoot JPGs you will get pure white. If you have your lighting set up properly you should get the same reading  0.2 stops all across the background that will be visible in the final image.


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And, you do not need RGB(255, 255, 255) on the whole background. As long as the background area surrounding your subject or object is white, a couple of seconds in Photoshop (or whatever you are using for post) will clean up the rest.

Right; I was saying that I overexposed the background significantly (by lighting it and putting no light on the subject) and it still wasn't pure white. This made me think that there is a problem with my camera settings. I've played around with them and I can get pure white if I go down to f4 (I was actually shooting at f4.5), but I don't like the look as much as keeping it at f4.5 and adjusting the exposure in post-production.

This made me think that there is a problem with my camera settings. I've played around with them and I can get pure white if I go down to f4 (I was actually shooting at f4.5), but I don't like the look as much as keeping it at f4.5 and adjusting the exposure in post-production.

I meant "overexposed" as the background was more lit than the subject (poor word choice). So, apparently, even without competition between foreground and background lighting - I couldn't capture the white paper as white.

It will only be balanced if you have an even distribution of every tonal value that can be captured. For example, if you took a shot of a man in a black tux against a hot white background, then you would have very bimodal distribution with nothing in the middle. If you took a shot of a grey object against a hot white background, then you would have a peak in the middle and nothing much elsewhere.

Expose the background same as subject or a little less, this will allow light fall off prior to hitting the subject, no ugly white patches on sides of faces. Open levels in PS, click the white eyedropper on the background and it will go to 555 on each channel. Check histogram and use the black eyedropper in levels to move the blacks to the left edge.

Sorry for the late reply, here are some test renders I did for a project:

1- This is how I want it to be, I basically took the render with the alpha and placed it on top of a completely white background in GIMP.

render010801920 155 KB

2- This is when making a mix RGB node in the compositor with the factor set to the render output alpha and the color set to very bright white with value 3.5 to achieve (1,1,1) white in the end result.

render110801920 75.6 KB

And here is the node setup.

Screenshot (18)1109651 57.3 KB

Left is your suggestion (setting the plane to shadow catcher, then doing the compositing on a new file, import to photoshop with white background), right is the viewport with a solid white plane behind it.

I want to create with ffmpeg a pure white video to use it as background. I mean a video that, played in a computer, you see as white. (In the examples I will pipe the output to ffplay so you don't need to delete the video later.)

For other readers, I should note that I get a pure white display when running the OP's original command. I can't diagnose what's happening on OP's setup but there should be no special steps needed to generate a pure white output from ffmpeg other than color=white.

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The setup consists of pure white background with a beauty dish or an octa as the main light. To create it I use two lights, nothing more. The setup is very basic and even a beginner can get it right the first time.

I usually mount a 27" beauty dish with white interior and no sock on it on my main light. However if I take this setup outside, a 39" Elinchrom Deep Octa with only the interior diffuser or a parabolic umbrella will replace the beauty dish. They are much easier to travel and walk with. I place my main light above my camera and angled down 45-degrees toward my subject.

If you do not have a big enough softbox or umbrella for the background, a simple strobe at full power on a wall usually also does the trick. By blasting the wall with your light, you get a pure white background and should still manage to get a slight rim light effect. Be careful though if the wall is colored, as it might reflect the color and your rim light will become colored.

The quickest way to test if you have pure white or black in your image is by using a Threshold Adjustment Layer. Create a new Threshold Adjustment Layer and bring the slider all the way to the right. If you see anything on your image, those areas are pure white. If you bring the slider all the way to the left, the areas with detail are pure black.

Now that you know how to test if your image contains pure white or black it is time to make pure white. The easiest way to do this is with the Brush Tool. The edges of your image are the most important as they control how an image will look when uploaded online. Paint white over the areas of your image you would like to be lighter and use Blend-If to restrict this layer to the lighter areas of the image. This will make sure that you will keep Shadow detail while making the Lights lighter. Repeat this process over the image as needed.

I'm putting an image in a crystal report (using Crystal Reports for Visual Studio 2005). The image is a product logo with a white background, and the report has a white background too. But when I run the report you can see it's not quite white. The off-white color is barely visible, but it is visible and more so when printed.

I've tried a variety of image formats, and tried transparent images too but they don't seem to work (transparent pixels show as black). When I use a different image I notice that the faint non-white color changes - as if it's a function of the colors in the image.

When I put the table not in an environment within the project, with an "image" set as a pure white color and render I get the attached image (1)and it looks awful. Looks cartoony and the materials and colors are off. That is supposed to be chrome. It messes up the lighting.

I am not sure you are going to get a pure "white" background without using photoshop. That is just not how rendering works.You are going to end up with things being slightly "off" because the light is hitting at a different angel, something is slightly shaded etc... Getting everything except the object to be pure white is not possible. At least with the controls for rendering in Revit.

It kind of reminds of this old image (perhaps you have seen it?), "color" can be very deceiving both the squares in this image are the exact shade of gray, even though one looks really white. If you want to see, just cover up the joint between the 2 on the screen with your finger.

I'm not asking about StackExchange specifically -- what I mean is, is this a good general rule for any/all web sites: when the design spec seems to ask for black or white, should I use almost black and white instead of really black and white?

'Simply put, contrast is the difference between two colors. On a web page, the amount of contrast required varies with different parts of the page. You usually want a high contrast between text and its background color. But too high contrast between design elements might give an unsettled and messy impression. Black and white create the highest contrast possible.' -Quote from here

A pure-black top bar would look very striking against the white background used by many websites, which is bad because the focus should be on the content rather than drawing the eye to the top of the screen. Making it lighter (gray) reduces the contrast between the top bar and the body's background.

For body text, you generally do want to use pure black against a light background, in order to maximize contrast and thus legibility. (This applies for both screen and print.) Notice that the background color for the body differs from pure white by only a tiny bit. In general, websites often choose backgrounds which are very slightly off-white. One purpose is to make the site feel warmer or cooler by picking a pale pink or blue (here it's a neutral gray though).

I traced the problem back to Musescore itself. The background color is not white (255 RGB measured on a digital color meter) but pale grey (249 RGB). This difference is barely visible on a monitor, but it becomes apparent on matter printed on a high quality press.

I went into preferences to change the background color. On the Apple Color Picker the white swatch reads as 255 RGB, but when selected, Musescore defaults to 249 RGB. Not only is the sheet background 249, but all pallets that show white are also 249. None of my other applications behaves in this way. 006ab0faaa

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