A paper cut occurs when a piece of paper or other thin, sharp material slices a person's skin, often the upper part of the finger, and often the index finger. Notably, "paper" cuts can also be caused by other thin, stiff, and abrasive materials other than just paper. Paper cuts can be highly painful, even though they may bleed very little, if at all.

Although a loose sheet of paper is usually too soft to cut, it can be very thin (sometimes as thin as a razor edge), thus being able to exert high levels of pressure, enough to cause a cut. Paper cuts are most often caused by paper sheets that are strongly fastened together (such as brand new sheet of paper out of a ream), because one single sheet might be dislocated from the rest. Thus all the other sheets are holding this dislocated sheet in position, making it stiff enough to act as a razor.


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Paper cuts can be painful as they can stimulate a large number of skin surface nociceptors (pain receptors) in a very small area of the skin. Because the shallow cut does not bleed as much, the pain receptors are left open to the air, causing continued pain. This is exacerbated by irritation caused by the fibers in the paper itself, which may be coated in chemicals such as bleach. Additionally, most paper cuts occur in the fingers, which have a greater concentration of sensory receptors than the rest of the body.

Here is the inside of the card. I was able to get two colors of ink on my stamp by using Stampin' Write Markers to ink it up. I used Shaded Spruce and Misty Moonlight. I was worried that those pretty sprigs would get lost on the card with the patterned paper, so I added a circle cut with the Deckled Circles dies.

For my version, I used the Modern Garden stamp and Garden Walk Designer Series Paper. I love this stamp set because it has both Christmas stamps but also Birthday and even a congratulations that could be nice for a wedding. The paper pack has both a holiday vibe and any day looks as well.

This stamp set is in the mini catalog, so it will retire very soon. The paper punch is a great one too, and I am glad that it will not be retiring. I used the punch for both the label for the greeting and also a notch for the gift card.

This paper outlines the nature of administrative costs affecting both health care payers and providers, and considers ways to contain these costs. Many such efforts are underway, including the ongoing implementation of the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act alongside several different elements of the Affordable Care Act. Continued progress in these areas is thus a central step to lower administrative spending.

my hands and fingers keep randomly getting what look like paper cuts, but i will just be walking then i wil be like ouch my finger hurts look down and there is what looks like a paper cut only a little more open on it. i keep getting these and they will go away and come back and go away and come back, i dought this is related to gluten intolerancy or celiac, and i know i did not get glutened in any way any clues as to what this is all about - this has been happening for about 3 days now

I have this happen occassionally too. Its almost always on the tips of my fingers though. Its always when I'm not feeling well and am getting reactions from food I've eaten. The cuts dont bleed either...its just split open skin without having dry hands. When I get really dry hands my knuckles will crack a little...but the cracks on my fingertips are different. Maybe it could be from malabsorption...I'm really not sure what causes it.

Those with neuropathy (nerve damage), such as the damage to hands and feet caused by diabetes, can experience greater pain with paper cuts. An immune disease like fibromyalgia, which changes the way the brain recognizes pain signals, can also make people more sensitive to cuts.

When you do get a superficial paper cut, clean the area, try not to separate the edges of the cut, and apply some antibiotic ointment and a bandage to help keep the skin together and free from infection. Deeper cuts, of course, may require medical attention.

But what about all the blood? Well, the capillaries in your hands and fingers are closely packed together. This means paper cuts can cause a lot of bleeding because of how concentrated blood can be in your hands.

Paper Cuts is an exploration of the contemporary world of zines and DIY publishing. Through a series of Podcasts and live events, Paper Cuts features writers, performers, and artists who have shared their work in print, on paper, and in small editions.

Aside from the Paper Cuts store, we have done all we can to provide you a hassle-free stay. Don't worry about bringing linens or towels - we've got your stay taken care of and have freshly prepared linens for our guests. Wifi, smart tv's, irons, ironing boards, color printer, paper punches, die-cutting machines are just a few things you won't have to pack!

Here is a simple guide to get you started making paper cuts.


I have been making them for several years now and have discovered that they are a really good way to make a beautiful card, especially when time is against you. I make these each time a birthday or holiday comes around because if the design ends up a bit iffy, the lace-like delicacy of the paper stops anyone from caring. (And you can get away with not drawing your own design*)


In this tutorial I will walk you through the basics along with some tips and tricks to make it that much easier.

Here's an overview of what you need, we'll go over it in greater detail in a moment.


-Cutting Board

-Scalpel

-Card or paper

-Gluestick (preferably a bad one)

-Masking Tape

-An image you want to cut out

-Clear sticky tape

-Plain white paper (or in a contrasting shade to your card)

-Ruler


Scalpel: Any scalpel/cutting knife will do (x-acto etc) so long as it comes to a sharp point and is flexible. A stanely knife/box cutter (typically) just won't do the job: it is too clunky to get all the fine details. I bought my scalpel at the local art supply shop and prefer them to X-acto because the blade doesn't break on me.


Spare blades: Can be bought wherever you got the scalpel. Take a note of the number (10 A etc) of the blade that comes supplied as this one will definitely fit. There are lots of different types of blade shape but I haven't noticed much difference in performance.


Card: I have made paper cuts with paper as thick as 385 GSM (about 2 mm thick) and have seen artists use rice paper in their work. The thinner the paper is, the easier it is to cut, but the less it will tolerate mistakes and tearing. The thicker the paper you use, the harder it is to cut shapes out, but the more abuse you can put it through. For cards like this, newsagent card stock works pretty well. I like to use blacks, dark blues or purples as they have a high contrast.


The Image: It is easiest if you have your image printed in another piece if paper, that way you don't have to erase any lines. You can draw your own, or like I did, find an image online and cut it out. Line art from the 1900's works pretty well as a lot of the thinking is done for you (also, depending on your country, it should be out of copyright).

This does not have to be done every time you make a new paper cut, but my blade was blunt so now is as good a time as any to mentioned it. 


I used to do this just with my fingers, and if you only pinch the flat of the blade you can do it with only very cosmetic scratches. However this way is super easy. 

First wrap your blunt blade in a few layers of masking tape, making sure only to cover the blade. Then use your fingers to push down on the tip, pulling at the same time. If it doesn't come off, apply more pressure and wiggle. 

Then tape your new blade and repeat the whole process in reverse. The blade should pop in with a satisfying click. It should not wobble. If it does give the blade another push or tape it in place. Un-stick the tape on the blade and you are ready to start.

In Western countries cards have the fold on the left hand side. Make sure you get that right or else it is embarrassing. We however, are going to open the card up and stick the image on the left hand face. This is because the cuts are always nicest on the side opposite to the one you cut and we want everyone to see the prettiest side.


Take your terrible glue stick and sporadically apply the glue. Do not go overboard, but try to get the important areas. A dot at each corner and a few dots in the middle should do it. If your glue stick is good let the dots dry for a few seconds before you stick it down, this way it won't bond so much and the paper can be peeled off later.

Decide which parts of the card you want to be solid colour and which should be cut out. I tend to leave any skin as solid and clothes etc. cut out. The key thing to remember with paper cutting is that paper is really strong in tension (if you pull it from each end) but fails quite easily in shear (if you push on a point). This means that any bits without a few supports will bend and get broken very easily. My rule of thumb is to make sure every piece is attached at at least 3 places to the larger image. This can change depending on the size, length of the piece etc. but you will get a feel for what needs support the more you cut. (For more examples check out step 9.)

You can choose to leave the background solid or cut out, but if you cut it out make sure to cut in all your support lines first! I have a tendency to forget them in the heat of the moment which makes my cards a bit tenuous.

Remove the pieces as you cut them out; this means you know for sure that your cut has been successful*.You can use your knife to lever out the sliver of paper and then pull on it with your fingers. If it doesn't come away at first you can pull it with a little pressure. Often this will rip the piece out, leaving a little burr of paper, but no one is going to notice. If it still won't come out use your scalpel to 'stab' the corner that is keeping it in, along your previously made cut lines. This should sever any remaining links. e24fc04721

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