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Hitting the sweet spot between price and performance, the TP-Link Archer AX55, which usually costs $100 to $125, broadcast a reliable and responsive Wi-Fi 6 network in our test home. You can find routers that offer faster speeds and models that cost less, but the Archer AX55 is the one in the middle that we recommend for most people right now. It provides strong Wi-Fi service even throughout a 2,000-square-foot or slightly larger home.

For every round of testing, we research routers from each of the major router manufacturers, including Asus, D-Link, Linksys, Netgear, and TP-Link. We also look for routers from lesser-known manufacturers.

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In addition, we consult router-owner reviews, plus professional router reviews from CNET, Dong Knows Tech, PCMag, and SmallNetBuilder, to generate our list of contenders. After identifying every model that meets all of our criteria, we thoroughly test the most promising routers ourselves.

It uses the reliable Wi-Fi 6 standard. Wi-Fi 6, also known as 802.11ax, has proven to be dependable and makes a noticeable difference in how most home networks perform. Wi-Fi 6 routers handle simultaneous connections to multiple devices better than older Wi-Fi 4 or Wi-Fi 5 routers did. Older routers simply switched back and forth between devices, albeit at an imperceptible rate; put one relatively slow device on an older router, and the whole setup would grind to a halt. But technologies such as OFDMA and MU-MIMO make it possible for the Archer AX55 and similar newer routers to keep more speedy connections active even with slower devices in the mix.

Its warranty is longer than others. TP-Link covers this router with a two-year warranty, which matches the coverage period for our other picks. D-Link, Linksys, Netgear, and Ubiquiti routers have one-year warranties.

It can run multiple wireless networks simultaneously. Separate SSIDs (network names) are useful for creating a time-controlled network for guests or kids, setting up a standalone network for your smart-home devices, or keeping your work-from-home and household networks separate. In contrast, routers such as the TP-Link Archer AX55 and Archer A8 usually default to a single main wireless network and a second guest network.

Instead of running just a single speed test, we used multiple laptops at different distances from the router in a 2,300-square-foot, two-story suburban home to simulate the real-world activity of a busy home network.

We characterized speed by looking at the combination of performance when downloading a large file at short and long range. The majority of the routers were able to top 500 Mbps at close distances, with some of the best-performing routers, such as the Synology WRX560, reaching over 640 Mbps in this test. Only a couple of stragglers, the TP-Link Archer AX10 and D-Link DIR-X1560, fell far behind at 100 Mbps.

During our multi-client latency testing, we evaluated how well a router performed when everything was working as normal, as well as how poorly it did ramping down to its worst moments. This process allowed us to determine how frequently and how much the experience may frustrate you.

As mentioned in our article explaining modems versus routers, a modem is a box that connects your home network to your internet service provider (ISP). A router is a box that allows all of your wired and wireless devices to use that internet connection at once and lets them talk to one another directly. Think of the modem as the box that deals with all the data packets to and from the outside world, and the router as the one that deals with all the communication inside your home or business.

Tri-band routers have an extra 5 GHz band or 6 GHz band in addition to the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands of a dual-band router. That third band allows more devices to connect and be busy at once without slowing the network down so much.

Wi-Fi 6 brings improvements that help routers and mesh networks better handle the increasing number of wireless devices, using technologies such as OFDMA (orthogonal frequency-division multiple access) and TWT (target wake time). However, devices must be Wi-Fi 6 compliant to take full advantage of them.

In 2023, most people should buy a Wi-Fi 6 router or a mesh-networking kit. Wi-Fi 5 routers are totally usable if you want to save some money, but Wi-Fi 6 has reached the mainstream saturation point and now gives you the best performance for a moderate amount of money.

I've recently changes my wifi router, and now my Canon Pixma TS3150 won't connect to my new network. It is still connected somehow to my old one, and I did literally everything possible to try to fix this issue. I've tried to reset the printer in many ways, tried to change the network from the app on my phone, the canon wifi connection assistant did not help, all it did was to tell me that there's an IP conflict between my computer and my printer, and the dumbest thing that I did was to uninstall the printer to try to install it again, but now it won't even go past the installing phase cause it can't connect to my wifi :')

The printer supports 2.4Ghz wireless and WPA-2 security. Please ensure your new router is broadcasting a 2.4Ghz signal and using the associated security algorithm. If the new router is dual band and using the same name for both 2.4/5G networks, you might try temporarily disabling the 5G broadcast during connection, or giving each network a unique name. Re-running the printers installation or set up utility is the correct way to change or re-establish a connection to a new wireless network.

After a power outage, my Nighthawk router's wifi settings were gone and only I found default Netgear SSID's. I was able to log into the router with my admin password and other network settings seem to have been kept.

I unable to replicate the problem by turning on/off the router as well as moving the router to another power outlet. I also turned on/off the wifi button. The power outage was several hours long so it was likely the memory not being able to hold its data as you stated @IrvSp.

BTW, my router IS connected to a high-end power conditioning system for our media center. Unfortunately, my UPS died in the last power outage so I didn't have one connected during the last power outage. I just need to install the new UPS (CyberPower CP1000AVRLCD) ordered during Black Friday. Any suggestions for how to connect a UPS when there is a power conditioner in the mix? I'm thinking I should just skip the power conditioner.

I can reproduce this exact issue on my R7900P simply by disconnecting the power overnight. Last night I disconnected the router power at 11:30pm, and then plugged it back in at 7am. Upon bootup, the Wireless settings including the Wireless name and password were reset to the default values (name NETGEAR, with no security enabled). Other settings were not wiped.

While a surge suppressor will help some with spikes a power outage may also have a power sage, spikes and other things happen. A good UPS will isolate you from these issues. I have my modem and router both on a UPS just for this reason. For what a router needs they are not that expensive and frequent power outages could in some isolated cases damage the router. I have a whole house surge suppessor, but know that will not protect the electronics like a UPS will.

Same issue here. I reset my cable modem and router once/day. I have used always used a timer to shut off my cable modem at 4 am and turn back on at 4:01 am, then use a second timer to shut off my router at 4:15 am and turn it back on at 4:16 am. I never had any issues until I bought the X6S at Costco yesterday. This morning my settings were erased, and the router was back to factory. I am taking the router back today.

I am not very impressed with Netgear. This is my second router in a week. I spent 2.5 days trying to get the new AX12 router to work, and finally, Netgear support said they believe it is a faulty router and to return or replace. I returned the $444 router to best buy and bought the $150 X6S at Costco.

Same issue. Power has nothing to do with it. Loss of settings has occured when rebooting the router from the admin screen. After the reboot all defalt settings have been loaded. The unit makes me log into my account at Netgear, then I am told I cant buy a contract, then I have to attempt login to the router several times, and finaly get the the admin page so I can restore my setting from the backup file. I should have done a little more research before buying a Netgear product. Their support is very poor. I am going to Amazon to leave feedback on my purchase, not going to be very good.

You need to be connected to your modem in order to send and receive data from the web; your router lets you do that without the need for a wire. It's basically a big, fancy antenna for your modem that lets you connect with it wirelessly, over Wi-Fi. You can also use that local Wi-Fi network to connect with other devices at home, like printers or remote storage servers.

Entry-level Wi-Fi routers average around $100, but you can find some ultra-cheap models for closer to $50. Mesh systems start around $200, and it's not uncommon to see high-performance gaming routers in the $400-$500 range.

It depends on what you need and how many people and devices need to connect, but a small- to medium-sized home or apartment can probably get by with a well-tested dual-band router in the $100 range. If your home is larger, it's probably worth spending more on a mesh system that can spread more consistent speeds from room to room. If you're working from home, gaming online or sharing bandwidth with multiple housemates or family members, upgrading to something like a high-speed tri-band router is probably a good investment too. 006ab0faaa