Download |VERIFIED| In The Hollow Of His Hands

I work mostly in the flat grind camp but, a recent commission has me looking at several feet of hollow ground blade that I wish to sand by hand. With a flat grind it is easy to alternate the direction of the scratches on the steel so the scratches from the previous grit show up well. With the hollow grind it is not so easy. How do those of you with more experience with hollow grinds approach this? Just tough it out and run the scratches in the same direction, or is there some other technique?

this is one of those things that is essentially no fun however you slice it, but if you use a sanding block with a slightly smaller radius than your contact wheel, then you can work at a slight angle to show up your previous scratches. a buffing wheel also really helps - personally i like to grind as cleanly as i can to 320x (you need a brand new belt at finer grits when hollow grinding), sand horizontally at the same grit, and use a red scotchbrite mop on a buffing machine (seems to be about 400x) followed by horizontal sanding to 600x, then buff, then 800x horizontal.

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Here's an idea. You could do the courser grits on a grinder and then switch to hand sanding as suggested above. To make sure that you get all the previous scratches off mark over the blade with a magic marker and keep going until all the black is gone being that you will have to work in one direction where it is hollow ground.

After this I use a sanding block with the correct diameter for the hollow with a 80 or 120 grit emery paper (depending on how well I managed the grinding). This helps to remove any undulations from the grinder.

I actually do the hollow grinding after heat treat many times, if the steel is deep hardening enough to allow this. It is so much more difficult to straighten a blade with hollow bevels than one with flat bevels.

The 80 grit paper, with Y weight backing, is extremely stiff and difficult to wrap around the sanding block. The paper keeps flattening out and trying to sand just the edge and the center ridge, not to mention it is giving my hands a workout trying to hold it on there tightly. This stuff is great for sanding flat grinds, it is really tough and does not wrinkle and tear like other papers I've used but, for the hollow grinds it is giving me fits. I have an entire shop roll of the stuff and am thinking that it will not be enough to get this one done! Faced with the prospect of having to buy more sandpaper to complete this project, what would you recommend? Can grit this coarse be found with a more flexible backing? I am making two of these, the primary one, plus a duplicate, just in case anything goes wrong during hardening. The duplicate may just get quenched before hollow grinding after reading your post Peter!

I use a 3M adhesive backed 80 grit paper for the step you're describing Bruce. I think it's for autobody work like Owen mentioned. I find it saves my fingers, and it's flexible enough to curve around the sanding block for hollow ground sanding. double sided tape is really useful for the higher grits, I found some that is the same width as my sanding blocks, it's white, similar diameter role to duct tape.

Noah the vegan big, hollow chocolate bunny is a delicious and guilt-free treat that is perfect for those with dietary restrictions. This chocolate bunny is vegan, meaning that it does not contain any animal products, such as dairy or eggs, and is made entirely from plant-based ingredients.

Some people really do have extremely hollow palms. Their hands feel noticeably thin in the middle. The flexor tendons are visible, with even deeper furrows evidenced alongside them. Before interpreting this feature in isolation, we cross reference to the strength of the earth (life) lines, the shape of the hands and the skin colour and texture, as well as looking at several other criteria. But generally, this is not a good look for health or for reserves of stamina.

Career wise perhaps the hollow palmed person prefers to live and work quietly, unobtrusively. They are not lazy and may even be very focused hard workers but driven from some inner anxiety and would work better at a pace that they themseves set rather than rigid discipline that is imposed from external source.

The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Print Collection, The New York Public Library. "In the hollow of his hands. (For further particulars watch the reports of the Vanderbilt will case.)" The New York Public Library Digital Collections. 1878. -93fa-0130-43f6-58d385a7b928

The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Print Collection, The New York Public Library. "In the hollow of his hands. (For further particulars watch the reports of the Vanderbilt will case.)" New York Public Library Digital Collections. Accessed January 4, 2024. -93fa-0130-43f6-58d385a7b928

The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Print Collection, The New York Public Library. (1878). In the hollow of his hands. (For further particulars watch the reports of the Vanderbilt will case.) Retrieved from -93fa-0130-43f6-58d385a7b928

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I don't use a grinder to shape my chisel or plane blades so I can't really comment on hollow grind benefits. I have always sharpened my chisels and plane blades with water stones which means they are flat ground. I know this means I need to sharpen the whole face of the blade which means it takes longer but I find that for "re-sharpening", as opposed to a new blade, that is just not a big deal. It does not take that long to get a blade sharp using this method.

I buy the physics on hollow ground, that is, that a concave bevel surface will "peel" wood off better (according to one tutorial I read), but on the other hand plane irons (traditionally) have the flat up. I think, in my novice opinion, that even if a hollow ground surface is better in general, a mirror flat chisel or plane iron will be sharper than the best hollow-ground bevel you can muster by hand in a shop, and certainly better than a round grind.

As a secondary note that may argue in favor of flat ground, LN always suggests that you put that second "micro-bevel" on the very edge for better edge durability. I have found the second bevel on several well-honed old blades I've come across, everyone here probably will say that is the way to do it, and it does seem to work. Assuming that the converse is true, that a thinner edge will wear worse, which is reasonable, then an "ideal" hollow grind might actually make blade performance worse.

The argument for a holow grind on the bevel of a chisel or plane iron is not that it will somehow cut "better", or be stronger. It is simply an expedient means of removing excess metal from the end of the blade. Once the blade is honed, the hollow is gone from the blade's business end (the very edge).

The advantages of the hollow behind the edge are twofold: First, there is less metal to be removed when re-sharpenng a dull edge- only the very toe and heel of the bevel must be worn away to restore the edge.

Secondly, and this only applies if one is sharpening freehand, not with a guide or jig to maintain the bevel angle, the hollow provides a more secure or positive reference bearing on the stone surface. That is, it is easier to feel when you are rocking off of the bevel.

Final note, when honing freehand, if one is in a hurry to resharpen and get back to the "real" work, it is all too easy to put more pressure on the toe of the bevel, to stone the very edge and not the whole bevel. With a hollow grind, this has the effect of slightly increasing the bevel angle. With a flat grind, this has the effect of rounding (making convex) the bevel- if this is severe enough, it can prevent even a very sharp plane from cutting- it is riding the bevel-or make it nigh impossible to pare with even a very sharp chisel.

Any hollow beyond that is just not important to the cut. At least in a hand plane or chisel used on wood. There may be other arguments in other applications that I can't speak to such as heavy duty butchering or timber axes. In those cases a good portion of the blade is buried in the material like a wedge with friction on both sides of the blade. Woodworking there is not that situation except a little bit in mortising but still not a problem

If you get good with free-handing, you will be able to minimize the amount of metal removed. I treated hollow grind as a sort of training wheels - at one point of progress with free-handing you just do not need them anymore.

I use hollow grinding because of the speed of going from dull to shaving sharp (bear in mind this is only for an edge beyond honing). For normal work practices, I hone rather regularly (free hand, unless something extraordinary requires a jig, such as a very short blade).

for hollow grinding. I usually use a hand grinder unless the edge is way out of square or something. To me it seems like if you use a power grinder the trick is to go slow, keep it cool, constantly check your progress. I picked up the tip from Ray to grind almost all the way to the cutting edge so as to not waste steel, and the tip from Larry to constantly dress the fine oilstones with a diamond plate to keep them flat. Also the idea from Larry that getting the back of the blade or chisel absolutely flat and and true is of crucial importance to developing the sharp cutting edge.

I had been hollow grinding my irons and chisels, then used a sharpening jig to set my final edge. This way, I didn't need to worry if I caught the edge properly on the stone. I would get the angle I needed each time, at the edge. Kind of took the guesswork out of it, I suppose. 17dc91bb1f