Download Guitar Pro 6 Crackeado

i have access to large bits of wood that make great guitar blanks though the wood is cracked along its length. i have thought about cutting along these cracks, cutting flat edges and then gluing the wood back together.

Here's something I did years ago... someone suggested the obvious, old cracked, split wood wasn't suitable for a guitar simply due to structrual considerations... which is correct, IF ya do nothing to adress the issues..

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If you have no recourse with the seller, just get it fixed. And keep it humidified this heating season or if yer in a dry place year around. Looks like the reason for the crack, and wouldn't be surprised if your fret ends need some attention as well. Still a good guitar.

Thanks for the comment, yeah I really like this guitar I think I will just get it fixed and buy a humidifier, I was so mad and shocked because I saw the little crack yesterday but I think I overreacted, it's not that bad but it sucks that I have to pay to get it fixed

Most of the time cracks occur because the guitar is under humidified (gets dried out). The wood shrinks and eventually cracks. Your's is not a "normal" place for these kinds of cracks, however, most of the time they occur on the lower bout (below the bridge) and frequently it is the center seam that opens.

This kind of crack can and should be fixed, but the bigger question is, is there other damage from the guitar being under humidified? I would look for the following: fret ends become sharp, the top becomes flat or even sinks behind the bridge (remember that "flat top" guitars are not flat on top), sometimes the finish gets these little wavy line. The action might be very low and frets in the upper part of the board might be buzzy.

Guitars get dehydrated because they are left out of their cases in a dry house (when we turn the heat on we dry the air). Many of us keep some sort of humidifier in the case with the guitar - mine are simple damp kitchen sponges in a baggie with lots of holes punched in it - each guitar has one in the case by the headstock.

Just checked it and it doesn't have any of the symptoms you have described other than the crack on the side. Hmm I think I'll just keep it I really like this guitar but I will buy a humidifier as soon as possible

I have decided to keep the guitar, I really really like the playability, sound and look. I am a bit mad about the fact that the seller didn't tell me about the crack on the guitar but it's all good. I just made a humidifier with the sponge and ziplock bag and I set it right under the headstock and I'm going to let it sit for a few days. Should I remove the strings?

Humidifying the guitar won't "fix" the crack but it will fix the cause (probably). At some point you should consider having it professionally stabilized. In the meantime go ahead and keep the strings on and enjoy your new guitar.

I'd get that thing cleated before it gets cold. Make yourself a good in-case humidifier and have it ready to go the first time you fire up the heater. Use floral arrangement foam, not just a cheap dollar store sponge, and go to Walmart and spend a buck on some distilled water. The floral foam will stay wet twice as long. Oh, and put a hygrometer in your guitar room.

A few of our members show signs of being cracked but I don't think that was what you meant. In any event, it sucks that the OP bought a guitar with undisclosed issues. A quick Web search gives a few prices for crack repair:

The crack is about 3 inches long and I have found someone who is going to repair it for 60$, he told me that it won't need to be cleated because it's not that big and a cleat can affect the sound of the guitar. He told me he was going to use wood glue and a caul on the oustdie and inside and a couple clamps. Hopefully it comes out fine

I think you could get close using one of the guitar instrument racks and the amp effect and maybe the saturator, but I think it would take me a really long time of tweaking before I got anywhere near it.

Yeah would definitely be much easier if you just get a guitar and do it yourself. Press lightly on the chord, dampening the sound and strum up and down with a lot of distortion. Making that sound in ableton might take you some time.

Not that I am changing my mind on what I assessed, but I thought I was looking at a LP Custom initially. I never knew that they made a LP Standard R8 with the alpine white finish... We learn something new every day I guess. I guess I was sort of surprised when I noticed the long neck tenon because a run-of-the-mill Custom doesn't have a long neck tenon. There may be some anomalies out there, but only 50s reissues and the 68 reissue have long neck tenons AFAIK. So anyhow, thanks for sharing some info on this guitar @TriSarahPlop.

Sarah,

I'm with the rest of the contributors on the diagnosis of finish crack.

I think that's all it is, and there's no problem.

My belief is that when you do the 'neck wiggle' test, you'll be satisfied that it's fine.

Cosmetic at best, and funny, considering it's a relic'ed instrument in the first place, so no big deal.

jdgm hit the nail on the head with his observation on guitars with white finishes.

Aged white Nitrocellulose has a habit of cracking, on nearly every brand of guitar.

I had an old white Stratocaster that had similar cracks near the neck pocket, and when I consulted with some guys on tdpri, they all had the same situation.

It's like service stripes, eh?

Or crows-feet around the eyes.

Character-building.

People oftentimes call about a crack in the face of their acoustic guitar, ( or the side or the back) and need to know how this will affect the sound. Does this make the guitar more fragile? Will the crack spread? How does one fix this problem????

I just bought a 2018 (still brand new) Alpine White nitro Gibson SG. Unfortunately, it arrived with some finish cracking which I think is due to temp changes between Michigan (where it originated) and California. It's not in a very visible location, so I might keep the guitar because they are hard to find currently and I like it. But I'm concerned about these cracks spidering out or extending to the top surface of the guitar. It currently extends from the control cavity on the back, around the edge of the guitar, but not onto the top/front.

Frankly, I don't trust my local luthiers...every one I've tried over the years has done really boneheaded things...from putting a bridge in backwards, to setting up guitars with just bizzare adjustments due to a nut that was too low to start with...amateurish. I do most of my own work now but I haven't done any finish work. I wouldn't know who to trust and I certainly don't want to ship the guitar cross country again and risk more temperature based cracking. Any suggestions?

Oh well. No replies. I took it to a luthier and also consulted a luthier's forum. Opinions varied. But my local luthier said he thought the wood was broken and I should return it. I took it home and took the backplate off, put a little pressure on it and I could see the crack separate slightly. Yup...broken wood. Returning it to guitar center.

Nitro finish is in my opinion an inferior (or superior if it's your thing) finish as it's prone to cracking and wear off while its' alternatives are not. People who buy guitars with nitro finishes either likes the perceived sound of it or the reliced look the guitar gets as it wears off.

It probably got dropped in transit but it didn't really have any "impact" marks on the case or the guitar, just the crack in the body. It could also just be that the wood just cracked as it dried out...maybe it wasn't fully aged or else maybe humidity changes caused it to dry further and crack. Anyway, I returned it and guitar center promptly relisted it as a brand new guitar with no suggestion of the issue. Someone somewhere bought it and I hope they are happy with it but even though I got a decent deal on it, there was no way I was going to keep it with that crack in the wood. Too bad, it was otherwise great.

I bought the spruce cleats to repair a pretty nasty 6" or so crack in an old Gibson archtop. The crack had been previously "professionally" repaired but opened back up again. I re-glued/clamped the crack and afterwards reinforced it with these cleats, and the guitar now sounds and plays great . Nice quality item, very affordable, and the shipping was very reasonable also. Highly recommended!

i got this guitar around 3 months ago during winter and now I've noticed these cracks? or pores on my fretboard.

it is made in 2021 and when i first got it i used lemon oil and changed the strings to 11-54.

This guitar was brought to me with some serious bass side damage- the owner had been keeping time on the side with his hand during a break and had cracked the side badly. The cracks ran from the shoulder all the way to the bout. This owner prefers to keep his guitars really dry and this contributed to the extent of the damage. The Gibson has a couple of other previously repaired cracks and cosmetically it is not in great condition. The owner simply wanted the cracks repaired to the point of stability and the area sealed against moisture. This is adequate and less costly than an invisible factory quality finish repair. This photo gallery shows how even a very bad crack can be adequately repaired.

I wonder if anyone can help me here.I bought a used guitar from Ebay and it looked fine at first sight.The action needed adjusting and I tune to Eb so I decided to adjust the truss-rod.I turned it clockwise a couple of times and it felt like it came loose so I thought, "Well, the Truss-Rod is broken". And I can't adjust this guitar :o/

That does not look like damage that might be caused by overtightening the truss rod, but perhaps improperly tightening the truss rod broke loose a poorly repaired broken headstock. When tightening a truss rod, the guitar neck should be clamped into the desired amount of back stress and then tighten the truss rod just enough to hold the neck in the desired shape. Many a truss rod has been broken by trying to tighten and straighten the neck without first clamping the neck into the desired shape. To better understand the correct technique, I recommend reading Dan Erlewine's book on guitar maintenance and repair. 2351a5e196