I have a Intel NUC D54250WYK. Two years ago I added an Intel Wireless-N 7260 with bluetooth card to the machine. It was running Windows 8.1 at the time. I installed the relevant drivers and both WiFi and Bluetooth parts worked fine. This week I did a fresh install of Windows 10 (an upgrade wasn't working for some reason). Out of the box the WiFi was working but Windows couldn't see the Bluetooth device. Device Manager was showing an Unknown USB Device (device Descriptor Request Failed),so I was assuming this pointed to a driver problem? The Wifi card was using a Microsoft driver.
I downloaded bt_21.10.1_64 from Intel Wireless Bluetooth for Intel Wireless 7260 Family site and installed it. It made no difference. I then tried older drivers I had from before but again it made no difference. (Although the wifi card started using intel drivers).
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I found this thread "Solved: Intel Wireless-AC 7260 bluetooth failed - Intel Communities" and followed the steps. I could only find one driver the bt_21.10.1_64 - the onedrive link in the thread didn't work. I don't know if that has the Wifi and/or the bluetooth driver. I can see the wifi card is still using a Microsoft driver and there is an unrecognized USB device in device manager and no bluetooth. It's like the drivers are not correct. Am I installing the correct drivers? Are there others I should use? I did try some random dell ones I found for the same card but it didn't solve the bluetooth issue. As it was working find under Windows 8.1 I don't believe its an install problem?
Then as I have seen suggested in other posts I removed the network connection, uninstalled both drivers and clicked uninstall from the device manager for the wifi adapter and the unknown device and reinstalled the bt and then wifi driver. Unfortunately the result was the same.
I discovered my BIOS was a bit out of date. I updated it, uninstalled the two drivers and reran the chipset software install. I then installed the bluetooth driver followed by the wifi driver. Still no change. It still doesn't recognize the bluetooth device.
I had an issue with adding an AC7260 to an older ASUS laptop (K550 with Win 10) with a flaky wifi card (after months of troubleshooting). Bought this card for both WIFI and bluetooth, but bluetooth wouldn't work after installing it - wifi worked fine and random disconnects appear to have disappeared.
Hi Sebastian, I've just bought an HP Omen laptop (4Q6E3EA#AKE) with this "famous" wifi card Ax200. It works the same as a lot of people complaint here in this forum. I do not believe it is a matter of my router/laptop manufacturer/driver, as it works with all the tried drivers in the same shameful way....100 Mbps down and approx 80 Mbps up, when my iPhone 12 Pro Max works with 650 Mbps down and 600 Mbps up.
1. Its a modem provided by my ISP, Jio. I have gone through the modems configuration but there seems to be no option to increase compatibility for wifi 6 cards. However, as I mentioned earlier it used to work fine and even now, the upload speeds are almost as good as they used to be.
I did try the clean installing driver exactly as shown in the video with OEM drivers. Also changed the compatibility to 802.11ac rather than ax. Still the same result, around 91 mbps while uploading and 22 while downloading. No other device is using the wifi while testing and my plan speed is 100 mbps download and upload.
This update came out sometime at the start of December and 21.90.3.2(latest OEM driver for the card) was installed along with the update. This is the faulty driver(the latest official driver from intel is also performing bad)
What I experienced is that the data transfer speeds (ex: file copy via network) plummet in windows 10 once the basic system default driver get updated to any other version. That includes an updated one released with the 2022 may service pack that force installs itself if only the old default is installed (attached picture). I have bought and tested several different cards when I first discovered the issue as I thought the card is somehow defective or incompatible with my router (have tested a few different ones after a while too), dived into settings on all sides (router/client/other computer) and then I ran into the advice above (under Sebastian_M_Intel, 12-15-2020, step 2) elsewhere and decided to remove all the updated, supposedly better drivers to check what do I get with the default one. To my surprise I instantly got "full speed" (60-80 MB/s) based on the link quality (which was always 800-866 Mbps) and when I updated to any other driver I hardly seen more than 8MB/s, which is unacceptable. I wonder what is that definitive difference between that w10 default driver vs. any other updated version that results in a 10fold speed difference. By the way the presence or the version of the bluetooth driver doesn't affect this.
When installing said driver, it told me that the installation failed. I tried to do a system restore, which did not help getting wifi connectivity back. The device said it was working, but did not get any wifi connection and did not discover any networks.
Next, I 'played' around a bit and reinstalled drivers, and I managed to install drivers from 2012, and when trying to update drivers manually and picking drivers that match the device, it lets me choose between drivers from 2010 and 2014. 2014 would be the current one, picking the 2010 driver leads to the driver being accepted. However, no wireless network can be found.
I upgraded from win 7 to win 10 and my wireless adaptor failed to function (the device driver had been either deleted or compromised in the update)--it was a CISCO AE500. The simple solution to this problem is to connect directly to your router via an ethernet cable and grab the device's driver from their support website. Install, and voila, wireless access reinstated.
I used the Intel PROSet/Wireless WiFi Connection Utility to connect to my wireless router INSTEAD OF WINDOWS. This is the software that was installed by selecting the **S versioned driver files from the Intel website. Low and behold the software can see all the wireless networks in my area where Windows cannot. I connected using that utility and my wireless has been restored.
So for me, I installed a modded driver for my graphics card, everything went smooth, then I did the reboot and my wifi was gone. I don't know why, but installing the new graphic drivers messed with my wifi drivers. All I had was the Ethernet connection icon and not the wifi anymore.
After a hair-pulling hour, this is how I managed to get it working again. First using my phone since I didn't have another pc, I downloaded the wifi driver for my laptop, then transferred it to my pc using a usb cord. (was too lazy to move my pc to connect it by ethernet)
I installed it, and no wifi. I rebooted, and still no wifi icon, just Ethernet. After checking all the services, I went into Device Manager, then network, and saw the wifi driver was in there. I right-clicked on it, and selected Scan for hardware changes. Nothing seemed to happen, but then all of a sudden my wifi came back like magic.
Configuring wireless is a two-part process; the first part is to identify and ensure the correct driver for your wireless device is installed (they are available on the installation media, but often have to be installed explicitly), and to configure the interface. The second is choosing a method of managing wireless connections. This article covers both parts, and provides additional links to wireless management tools.
Some wireless chipsets also require firmware, in addition to a corresponding driver. Many firmware images are provided by the linux-firmware package; however, proprietary firmware images are not included and have to be installed separately. This is described in #Installing driver/firmware.
To check if the driver for your card has been loaded, check the output of the lspci -k or lsusb -v command, depending on if the card is connected by PCI(e) or USB. You should see that some kernel driver is in use, for example:
If your wireless card is listed above, follow the #Troubleshooting drivers and firmware subsection of this page, which contains information about installing drivers and firmware of some specific wireless cards. Then check the driver status again.
Managing a wireless connection can be accomplished using network manager which will use wpa_supplicant or iwd for wireless authentication, or using wpa_supplicant or iwd directly. For lower level configuring, or if you are using a legacy driver or a legacy authentication method, there are iw and the deprecated wireless_tools.
The regulatory domain, or "regdomain", is used to reconfigure wireless drivers to make sure that wireless hardware usage complies with local laws set by the FCC, ETSI and other organizations. Regdomains use ISO 3166-1 alpha-2 country codes. For example, the regdomain of the United States would be "US", China would be "CN", etc.
Hardware buttons to toggle wireless cards are handled by a vendor specific kernel module. Frequently, these are WMI modules. Particularly for very new hardware models, it happens that the model is not fully supported in the latest stable kernel yet. In this case, it often helps to search the kernel bug tracker for information and report the model to the maintainer of the respective vendor kernel module, if it has not happened already.
If your journal says wlan0: deauthenticating from MAC by local choice (reason=3) and you lose your Wi-Fi connection, it is likely that you have a bit too aggressive power-saving on your Wi-Fi card. Try disabling the wireless card's power saving features (specify off instead of on).
On some laptop models with hardware rfkill switches (e.g., Thinkpad X200 series), due to wear or bad design, the switch (or its connection to the mainboard) might become loose over time resulting in seemingly random hardblocks/disconnects when you accidentally touch the switch or move the laptop.There is no software solution to this, unless your switch is electrical and the BIOS offers the option to disable the switch.If your switch is mechanical (and most are), there are lots of possible solutions, most of which aim to disable the switch: Soldering the contact point on the mainboard/wifi-card, gluing or blocking the switch, using a screw nut to tighten the switch or removing it altogether. 2351a5e196
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