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Building studded tires
Building studded tires
Construction of studded tires can be a daunting task. Below is a quick guide to get you started on building your own set of studded tires.
Over the years we have found it best to use a tire that has a fairly rigid carcass, with at least some tread left on the tires. The best success for longevity has been using Ultra High Performance (UHP) All Season tires. These tires generally have a stiff carcass, with rubber designed for sub zero temperatures to avoid cracking and leaks.
How many studs can you use? Click here for STUD QTY CHARTS
The Spec Stud Tire Rules for CWSCC limit the bolt type/size
Studded tire hardware
Studded tire hardware
You will need
5/16" diameter x 1-1/4" Grade 5 hex bolts (flanged or regular)
5/16" washers (dont forget to double the quantity if using regular hex bolts)
5/16" nyloc nuts
Butyl rubber sealant
Want to skip having to do your own stud sharpening? Visit club member JXB Performance for pre-sharpened legal studs. Otherwise, the stud sharpening method is below.
1. Pattern
1. Pattern
Determine the pattern you want to use and mark it on the tire making sure to space the design evenly. Following the tread block pattern generally works well. Word of caution to not get too close to the sidewall of the tire. You have to leave room for your bolt head/washer inside the tire. If that gets too close to the sidewall, you will end up with a highly distorted tire that is difficult to mount.
2. Drilling holes
2. Drilling holes
The scary part, especially if you've bought new dedicated tires for this. Use a drill bit to drill a hole through the entire tire tread/carcass. Use a bit smaller than your bolt diameter. In this set a 3/16" bit was used for 5/16" bolts. A smaller hole helps keep the tire from leaking, but also can make stud installation difficult.
3. Prepare hardware
3. Prepare hardware
Start to assemble your hardware to install on the inside of the tire. You will apply Butyl sealant to the bolt/washer assembly you will be installing through the tire. Helps to make these in batches. The sealant aids in making sure your tires see years of use with minimal/no leaking. It is highly advised to pre-sharpen the bolts before installation.
4a. Install studs
4a. Install studs
Using an impact driver, install the prepared stud assembly through the tire making sure to install in the pre-drilled holes. If you miss your drilled hole, your tire is going to leak and not be fun to try and patch up
4b. install studs
4b. install studs
This part can get messy with the wet butyl. Any excess butyl that squeezes out can be wiped around the bolt head for added sealing
5. tighten studs
5. tighten studs
Outside of the tire you will install a washer and nyloc nut. Using a wrench on the back side and an impact driver on the outside, tighten the nut and washer down into the tread. "Significantly" tight works. If you don't tighten and drive down the washer/nut far enough you risk the tire leaking. You will heavily distort the tread blocks, this is normal.
sharpening bolts
sharpening bolts
Most people use a snowmobile stud sharpener. Pictured is a Woody's Snowmobile Stud Sharpener with a 60º sharpening angle. Having the studs sharpened prior to installation is tremendously helpful.
One method of sharpening the bolts with minimal physical effort (just time), is to weld an old socket to a piece of scrap metal that can be clamped to the base of a drill press. The socket holds the bolt as you sharpen the tip. This allows you to use the drill press to sharpen your bolts and saves they physical pain of using a cordless/corded drill freehand.
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